Upgrading 95" Stage 2
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Upgrading 95" Stage 2
Ok, I have posted in the past about upgrading my motor, but finally stopped by a local indy. Owner wasn't there, but talked to younger guy.
Long story short, I have 2003 RKC with SE 95" Stage 2 with SE 203 heads. It also has slip-ons. I've had the bike for a few years, and want to get a bit more out of it without breaking the bank. I plan on trading in a couple of years.
It hasn't been dyno'd but will here next 10 days.
I'm hoping to work off of what I have. What he suggested is some head work, new cams, and a SERT. Is this a feasible idea? I'd like it to still be reliable.
Long story short, I have 2003 RKC with SE 95" Stage 2 with SE 203 heads. It also has slip-ons. I've had the bike for a few years, and want to get a bit more out of it without breaking the bank. I plan on trading in a couple of years.
It hasn't been dyno'd but will here next 10 days.
I'm hoping to work off of what I have. What he suggested is some head work, new cams, and a SERT. Is this a feasible idea? I'd like it to still be reliable.
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 74
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From: Syracuse, NY
This type of question comes up alot on here and honestly you will get 100 different answers. Alot depends on what your expectations are. Even big horsepower/torque builds can be set up so they are reliable. My opinion would be a basic street/velocity type port with andrews 37 cams or woods tw-6. Heads decked for proper compression and possibly a good 2-1 pipe. This is a proven set up and I think alot will agree you really can't go wrong with this.
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: san antonio
I would agree with bigjoe1, How many miles on the motor since the 95" upgrade? I am thinking a compression and leak down test are in order to evaluate the condition of the top end. If ring seal has deteriorated since the 95" build, you will have to bore/hone to .010" over and fit a new set of pistons. If you have to do that, might as well go to 3.932" bore or 98" and fit a set of Wiseco pistons. Pass on the velocity port and go for the full pro street type port with larger intake valves.
There are lots of cam options, including those that bigjoe mentioned. Just have to figure out where you want your power. Pick the cams first and have the heads worked to the cams.
While your at it, and if you have the $$, convert the cam plate/drive system over to the SE Hybrid setup. Hydraulic tensioners, big chain is roller and better oil pump.
There are lots of cam options, including those that bigjoe mentioned. Just have to figure out where you want your power. Pick the cams first and have the heads worked to the cams.
While your at it, and if you have the $$, convert the cam plate/drive system over to the SE Hybrid setup. Hydraulic tensioners, big chain is roller and better oil pump.
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As already said, the Wood 6 or Andrews 37 is a great choice.
This past spring, alone, we have had dyno charts from 2 shops in New York state, and one in Florida, all confirming between 106 -108 hp and 108-111 ft/lbs, SAE, with our Stage II Heads/98"/Andrews 37 cams.
The Wood cams have shown years ago to go 110/112, SAE, our same set-up, tuned on T-Mans dyno.
Great fuel economy, and cool running as well.
Scott
This past spring, alone, we have had dyno charts from 2 shops in New York state, and one in Florida, all confirming between 106 -108 hp and 108-111 ft/lbs, SAE, with our Stage II Heads/98"/Andrews 37 cams.
The Wood cams have shown years ago to go 110/112, SAE, our same set-up, tuned on T-Mans dyno.
Great fuel economy, and cool running as well.
Scott
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