Going to be installing one on my 08 low rider any of you gear heads got any advise or things i should be looking for when i install this. I watched the videos from S&S on how to install the cams and cylinders and have the service manual. Im pretty mechanially inclined not to worried just want to knew if there are any tricks or such to make this easy and smooth.

 

Main tip is this: when you pull the clips from the pistons, make SURE you have the spigot holes stuffed with rags. Same when installing pistons. If you lose those clips into the sump... you may have to split the cases the get the clips out.

I usually run duct tape across spigot hole when I install pistons, and I always leave the new pistons in the jugs and install at the same time. It is trickier to do the pins that way, but so much easier that trying to get the jugs on after you installed the pistons. One can take a sharpened tooth brush and gently push each ring into the cylinder. If you install the pistons first, you will need a motorcycle style ring compressor. I have a set from Jims that have lasted for years and years. Can NOT use an 'automotive' style compressor due to the fact it has to be able to open up and remove around the rods when done.

I bought a circlip tool to install the clips off of ebay. ALWAYS use a ring expander tool to install rings onto the piston and NOT screwdrivers or slide them on.. Ring expander is a MUST HAVE TOOL. Buy a decent set of torque wrenches. My inch pound wrench is a CDI (snap on) model. My two ft lb wrenches are Sears. You should use a 'ring file' to gap the rings. I use a rotary file from Jegs Racing and it was like $50. Works great.

Go to Wally world and buy a few packs of microfibre towels. Cleanliness is next to Godliness when it come to assembly. Use a NEW towel for every part of the install. Do NOT use a washed towel for install. Washed towels are for disassembly only.

To me? This stuff is every bit as fun as riding, and.... it is something that will make you feel really proud of yourself when done and it starts right up!!!!!

 

Very straightforward job.
BTW, have you considered going to a 107" combination?
Scott

 

Don't know what kit you are installling but if it includes cams, you should upgrade the inner cam bearings which will require the tool to R/R them. Several options on Ebay or the Beatty tool. The first link is to a guy selling a set of those tools and the second is a link to the Beatty tool.

jim.rousselle@sympatico.ca
madtownrydr@yahoo.com

If you are installing a BB kit out of the box, at least have the cylinder/piston fitment checked with the cylinders torqued up in torque plates. They may be fine but I would not install without checking.

Like Truk, I install pistons first and install the cylinders with pistons installed; way easier, IMHO, than the other way. I prefer the barrel ring compressors made for a specific bore or the barrel adjustable type that will fit a range, say 3.900-4.120 over the spring type. I have a spring type just in case a piston slips out of the cylinder after being dropped on the studs. A PITA and I try not to let that happen but sometimes it just does.

I use those yellow sponges from Home Depot to slip around the rods and fill the case cavity to keep stuff from dropping down into the crank case. Just cut a circular piece out a little larger than the case bore, cut a slit to the center and slip it around the rod and stuff it down into the case. I put them in as soon as I pull the cylinders and they stay there until I am ready to close.

Circlip tool is handy and ring expander is, as Truk says, a must have. I have trouble with the pushrod tube clips; always have. So, I bought the H-D tool and installing the clips is a snap.

Read the service manual; check you work as you go and make sure you have completed a step before you start the next; think clean, clean, clean as you install; be patient, take your time, DO NOT GET IN A HURRY.

I use Rotella 15W40 for breakin but whatever conventional oil you want will be fine for the first 100 miles. There are varying opinions on break in procedure but I am not a subscriber to a lot of heat cycling. I prefer to get the bike on a dyno and seal the rings that way or just ride. Good luck.

 

I agree with DJL on this 100%. Even if you can NOT find torque plates, but DO have available some bore gauges, I would check anyways. Without the plates, anything over .001 would force me TO find some plates.

I'm going to give that sponge trick a try next time I do this.

 

I'm going to throw my opinion in here for what it's worth. If you haven't already bought the 103 kit, I would recommend you look at one of the kits offered by a well known shop (such as Hillside cycle). These kits usually have forged pistons and the the cylinders are bored and honed to specific tolerances to fit each piston, which is critical for good ring seal. Your odds of having a great running engine will be far better.

 

i will try the piston in cylinder trick and the sponges. Im not sure if the kit comes with heaver duty bearings for the cams if not will have to get some. I've never gapped the rings before on any other build i've done but i will deffenetly be doing it on this one. i went with the stage 2 screaming eagle kit it will give me the performance im looking for at a price i can afford to spend.

 

Got 3 questions 1 what should i set the gap for on the rings? 2nd were can i get a cheap blind hole puller for the cam bearings? 3'rd i currently have a stage one set up on my 96" motor when i install the stage 2 103" will the current map that's loaded on the ecm allow me to be able to start the bike to set the rings or should i let my dealer do that when i have them put it on the dyno?

 

Ring Gap
Once you are sure you have a set of cylinders/pistons that fit, refer to the service manual for the ring gap spec. As a general rule, most engine manufacturers advise a minimum end gap for the topmost compression ring of .004 inches multiplied by bore diameter. For example, a 4-inch bore would translate to .016 inches (4 inches x .004 inches = .016 inches). The second compression ring has a standard formula of .005 times the bore diameter. A 4-inch bore would translate to .020 inches for the ring end gap. The standard for all oil rings, regardless of engine size, is .015 inches. Always follow the measurements listed in your repair manual.

Assign each set of three rings to a specific cylinder bore and write it down. Don't get the rings mixed up; label each set front or rear.

As Truk pointed out, the ends of the rings must be perfectly square; you can't gap rings with a conventional file. You must use a ring gap tool. If you don't have one or don't want to buy one, take the rings and cylinders to someone that does.

Blind Hole Puller
Auto Zone has a blind hole puller in their rental tool inventory; just need the right size collet. That works to remove the bearings; how are you going to install?

Tuning
You can start and run the bike on the OEM map. Start it up and let the engine heat cycle for 30-60 seconds; hold the throttle an maintain 1500-1700 rpms while you check for leaks and listen for weird noises. If all OK, let her cool down to the touch and run one more heat cycle for a minute or so. Then get it on the dyno straight away; the dyno operator can do a few pulls under load and seat the rings. The quality of the rings these days allows them to seat pretty quick. The dyno operator can watch the AFR while this is going on and make some adjustments for a "break in" tune. Put at least 500 miles before taking it back to the dyno for a final tune.

JMHO

 

went to harbour freight today and bought a blind hole bearing puller they had a kit on sale for $35 bucks. As for getting the bearings back in I will make up a little jig to press them in. I have a local guy here in town that owns a machine shop and does motor work i will contact him to see about gapping the rings for me. did not realize i was gonna have to put this on the dyno twice.