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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 10:28 PM
  #1  
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FDR
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From: Hollywood CA
Default 2000 flhr

Hey Guys!
I'm a first time Harley owner.
with a load of questions,,,
two weeks ago I picked up a 2000 Road King Police bike.
It seems to be in pretty good condition.

i've fixed lots of small things so far.
it was slow/warm idling low @(650) and stalling time to time.
cleaned the throttle plates and air bleeds, washed the air filter, changed the plugs and turned the warm idle screw in 1/4 turn to get 1000rpm.
changed the fork oil and adjusted the neck to get rid of the banging on braking. flipped the front wheel to get tire rotation correct.

43,000 miles
I don't see any kind of after market programmer on it.
It has a medium valve train noise under normal riding at the top of the gear, it will rattle pretty bad if you get on it in to high of a gear, it sounds bad!
sounds more like valve train than piston slap.
i've watch loads of videos about replacing cam tensioners.
but it's a top end noise as far as i can tell.

i checked the cam and crank sensors for cracks.
300 miles on the plugs and the look OK, front is slightly richer.
i thought i might need intake seals but no change when spraying.

i need some help identifying a few parts.
It has Screaming Eagle heads, i'd like to know what kind.
it has adjustable pushrods, what kind?
i could see it still has chain drive cams.
i wonder if it has easy start cams, the pushrods do not move up and down much. any ideas on how much lift off the base circle?

Oil filters- what other brands fit the twin cam, besides Harley?

Thank!
 
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 05:52 AM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by FDR
Hey Guys!
I'm a first time Harley owner.
with a load of questions,,,
two weeks ago I picked up a 2000 Road King Police bike.
It seems to be in pretty good condition.

i've fixed lots of small things so far.
it was slow/warm idling low @(650) and stalling time to time.
cleaned the throttle plates and air bleeds, washed the air filter, changed the plugs and turned the warm idle screw in 1/4 turn to get 1000rpm.
changed the fork oil and adjusted the neck to get rid of the banging on braking. flipped the front wheel to get tire rotation correct.

43,000 miles
I don't see any kind of after market programmer on it.
It has a medium valve train noise under normal riding at the top of the gear, it will rattle pretty bad if you get on it in to high of a gear, it sounds bad!
sounds more like valve train than piston slap.
i've watch loads of videos about replacing cam tensioners.
but it's a top end noise as far as i can tell.

i checked the cam and crank sensors for cracks.
300 miles on the plugs and the look OK, front is slightly richer.
i thought i might need intake seals but no change when spraying.

i need some help identifying a few parts.
It has Screaming Eagle heads, i'd like to know what kind.
it has adjustable pushrods, what kind?
i could see it still has chain drive cams.
i wonder if it has easy start cams, the pushrods do not move up and down much. any ideas on how much lift off the base circle?

Oil filters- what other brands fit the twin cam, besides Harley?

Thank!

In your neck of the woods, I'd get a hold of RC Cycles in Hayward.
Scott
 
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 10:34 AM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by FDR
i need some help identifying a few parts.
It has Screaming Eagle heads, i'd like to know what kind.
it has adjustable pushrods, what kind?
i could see it still has chain drive cams.
i wonder if it has easy start cams, the pushrods do not move up and down much. any ideas on how much lift off the base circle?

Oil filters- what other brands fit the twin cam, besides Harley?

Thank!
You will need the casting number from the heads to properly identify and knowing when they were installed will also narrow down the possibilities. If the heads are SE, most likely the pushrods are also SE. No need for a programmer, unless an ignition programmer, on a carbed motor; the carb is the programmer.

Hook up a compression guage and check compression. You will need to pull the carb out of the intake boot; the slide is vacuum operated (if CV) and will stay down with the throttle wide open. If compression is really low, could have EZ start cams.

You do need to upgrade the chain drive tensioners and there are a couple of ways to do that; they vary in cost.

When you get into the cam chest, the cams will have identifying alpha/numeric marks stamped into the casting. Check the inner cam bearings; if INA upgrade them to Torrington B148s.

There are other oil filters but why not stick with the H-D filter? The other available filters include:
Purolator PL14476 / PL14477
Mobil1 M1-102
Bosch 3330
Walmart Supertech ST4967 / 4386
AMSOil SMF 133/134/135
Baldwin B33 / B37
Fram PH4967
Hastings LF410 / LF 413
NAPA 1394
Purolator ML16822
WIX 51394 / 51396

These all have 3/4" x 16tpi threads, 8 psi by-pass valve, anti-drain back valve and are about 3" / 3.5" long. Media is different as well as micron level of flitering. There are only two or three that I would use in a pinch. If cost is the issue, consider how often you change oil in a season; once? twice? Is it really worth it?
 
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 12:04 PM
  #4  
FDR's Avatar
FDR
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Stage III
Joined: Nov 2012
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From: Hollywood CA
Default

i bought a Harley filter BUT it has spot welding splatter in it.
i dont know why they are welded, other brands are pinched.
 
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