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This isn't what I wanted to hear. I was hoping to throw in some 10.5:1 pistons and a set of cams into my 2011 110" this winter, but I've had concerns that this is what I would find. I've only got 2,800 miles on the clock, but it sounds like some of these issues might have started at the MoCo factory. Hmmmm....
Unfortunately it is a common problem w/ Harley's stock crankshafts. We would recommend using either Jim's/S&S/SE Pro Stroker options instead of replacing w/ an OEM replacement.
With the change in runout spec from .003" to .012" in '07, I suspect that many of these cranks have not been tweaked but came that way from the factory and will probably not get worse if the engines remains in stock configuration but oil pump/pressure problems may develop prematurely compared to the early models. However, if performance upgrades are planned it would be smart to have the crank trued, balanced and plugged/welded. I would throw R&R out as a potential source for those services as well.
Another reason I hang on to the old bikes I have. You can have the wider tires, ABS and new frame; I will take the bullet proof lower unit.
Definitely scoring although not severe.No doubt I could put it back together and ride it but I'm not real comfortable with that option.I'd hate for sh*t to hit the fan 1000 miles from home. Indicator was mounted on engine,he put it on another bike with 60 k on it and it only had .001 run out.Service manager wasn't in,I talked to the mechanic who tore it down. gonna talk to the service Mgr. monday .I have a pretty good idea of what he quoted my buddy though.
New OEM crank(not sure that is necessary) trued and welded by RevPerf ,bore jugs to 103 w/cast flat tops,andrews cams new bearings,se camplate and oil pump,timken lefty conversion,new lifters etc. tuned and broke in on dyno $3300
even with 20% off all of the parts it more than doubles the original bill.
Gonna have to weigh my options
With the change in runout spec from .003" to .012" in '07, I suspect that many of these cranks have not been tweaked but came that way from the factory and will probably not get worse if the engines remains in stock configuration but oil pump/pressure problems may develop prematurely compared to the early models. However, if performance upgrades are planned it would be smart to have the crank trued, balanced and plugged/welded. I would throw R&R out as a potential source for those services as well.
Another reason I hang on to the old bikes I have. You can have the wider tires, ABS and new frame; I will take the bullet proof lower unit.
Funny how many posters here blame the Dealer for strumming up business while refusing to believe how bad the 07's and later are from the standpoint of the weak cranks.
And again this is why I hold onto and repair and rebuild, ( whenever that actually happens,) my 2000 95" Big Bore with the hot forged crank and Timken Lefty bearing that Harley deemed not necessary in later years. ( After 2002.) Just ran past 122,000 miles this past week on it.
Why isnt the crank being replaced under warrnty,then all you would have to pay for is parts,you can get fuel moto107 way cheaper than that
Warranty is up on both bikes, besides theese cranks are still within factory specs. Originally considered fuel moto 107 and doing it myself because of the expense of traveling there but decided that i wasn't real comfortable with boring stock jugs to 107 despite their success with these kits.I looked at some other kits and decided I wasn't comfortable with nikasil jugs.Considered bigger bore kit but man that really gets pricey and besides i really just want a little more torque and a reliable tourer that will run decent on whatever fuel is available
New OEM crank(not sure that is necessary) trued and welded by RevPerf ,bore jugs to 103 w/cast flat tops,andrews cams new bearings,se camplate and oil pump,timken lefty conversion,new lifters etc. tuned and broke in on dyno $3300 even with 20% off all of the parts it more than doubles the original bill.
Gonna have to weigh my options
$3300 for everything you listed above is resaonable; the OEM crank retails for $730, so at 20% off, the $3300 drops to about $2700 for basically a new engine excluding the cases. Additionally, I assume the dealer is offering some sort of warranty??
Having said that, if the cash was available, another $2500 gets you a 120R crate motor and you still have your stock motor. But if cash is an issue, the dealers offer may be a bitter pill but still reasonable. JMHO
I am not sure how anyone can suggest that you ignore it and put it back and run it. These cranks are a know weak link. I had one go out @ 7000 miles and the second @ 11000. I finally went to a welded and plugged crank and never encountered an issue since. It would not be a bad idea to check the runout when doing any cam service. Better than being stranded or out of service during peak riding season
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