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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 07:10 PM
  #11  
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I've fabricated my own tools before and with the ideas from this thread, I'll be good to go. Thinking of staying with the chain drive for now and just do a cam upgrade...Money scarce...Any suggestions on just a bolt in cam? Hoping to use stock springs, push rods etc. I see S&S has a 510c bolt in, and they recommend a cam installation kit which includes cam cover gasket, 2 inner cam needle bearings 1 cam outer ball and 1 cam outer roller. Is this kit helpful? Would I be foolish to not replace the the inner cam bearings?
 
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 09:19 PM
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s&s recommends replacing the cam needle bearings with the Torrington (Koyo) bearing anytime you're in the cam chest and they still have the INA bearings installed.. nothing wrong with the chain drive.. I was already in there and the cam plate need to be replaced. the cost of the chain vs gear drive with having to replace the cam plate and oil pump was close to the same...I spent less than 1300.00 including buying the needle bearing removal/installer...that's with lifters and everything new in the cam chest....already had SE adjustable pushrods...
 
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Old Apr 19, 2013 | 06:34 AM
  #13  
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IMO- Without bumping up the Compression Ratio and staying with your Chain Drive, The Screamin Eagle SE-203 seems to be a good choice. I have attached some charts I put together for my '03. It realy doesn't take much more to pull the jugs and change Compression Ratio and while your there some head work would help
 
Attached Thumbnails Cam Upgrade-chart1.png   Cam Upgrade-chart2.jpg   Cam Upgrade-flhtci2011-1.jpg   Cam Upgrade-flhtci.jpg  
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Old Apr 19, 2013 | 11:35 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by LeFat1
I've fabricated my own tools before and with the ideas from this thread, I'll be good to go. Thinking of staying with the chain drive for now and just do a cam upgrade...Money scarce...Any suggestions on just a bolt in cam? Hoping to use stock springs, push rods etc. I see S&S has a 510c bolt in, and they recommend a cam installation kit which includes cam cover gasket, 2 inner cam needle bearings 1 cam outer ball and 1 cam outer roller. Is this kit helpful? Would I be foolish to not replace the the inner cam bearings?
Andrews 26 or 21 has long been regarded as the best "bolt in" option for a cam only upgrade in a TC88. The OEM 2003 valve springs are specified to accommodate .510" lift but that could be pushed to .515", maybe .520" before coil bind but no more. In a Road King, I would probably opt for the 21.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 01:02 PM
  #15  
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Thanks people. I'm going with the S&S 510's. Not looking for more than a small project and a little more power. At 61 years young, that'll do me for a while. Now to figure what special tools to buy and which to improvise on.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by LeFat1
Thanks people. I'm going with the S&S 510's. Not looking for more than a small project and a little more power. At 61 years young, that'll do me for a while. Now to figure what special tools to buy and which to improvise on.
Well, you were warned and better choices were suggested. She will be soft on the bottom with stock compression; you are not going to see/feel the power increase until the motor sees 3500-4500rpms. You need a cam with earlier intake close to boost low and mid range power which is where most of us ride. How much time do you spend above 3000rpms?
 

Last edited by djl; Apr 20, 2013 at 01:22 PM.
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 06:25 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by djl
Well, you were warned and better choices were suggested. She will be soft on the bottom with stock compression; you are not going to see/feel the power increase until the motor sees 3500-4500rpms. You need a cam with earlier intake close to boost low and mid range power which is where most of us ride. How much time do you spend above 3000rpms?
Good point, what about the S&S 509, once again not looking for major rebuild. Theres gotta be a bolt in for my taste. The S&S has a higher lift and longer duration than the Andrews you mention. How is it determined that the Andrews cam is better at lower RPM's. Just asking..
 

Last edited by LeFat1; Apr 20, 2013 at 06:31 PM.
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by djl
Andrews 26 or 21 has long been regarded as the best "bolt in" option for a cam only upgrade in a TC88. The OEM 2003 valve springs are specified to accommodate .510" lift but that could be pushed to .515", maybe .520" before coil bind but no more. In a Road King, I would probably opt for the 21.
djl, I like what you say, but, I have a Fatboy. Why do u suggest the 21? At least I've narrowed it down to the 21 or 26
 
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 05:50 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by LeFat1
djl, I like what you say, but, I have a Fatboy. Why do u suggest the 21? At least I've narrowed it down to the 21 or 26
I'm sure he suggest the 21 because it pulls great right off idle and is nearly unmatched thru the mid range but ..... The 21 does run out of steam early for my riding style, the 26 will pull better through out the rpm range and will also support future mods, its all in how you ride the bike and what your long term plans are, you made a wise decision getting away from those s&s cams with no compression , good luck in whatever you decide,
 
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 12:12 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by LeFat1
djl, I like what you say, but, I have a Fatboy. Why do u suggest the 21? At least I've narrowed it down to the 21 or 26
Rule of thumb is the 21 for a touring bike and the 26 for a softail or dyna. If you ride mostly solo, the 26 will probably work for you. As gxrboy96 says, it won't pull off idle like the 21 but still provides good low end power and strong mid range. You could add a set of 1.7 ratio rockers, at least on the intake side and probably see some improvement above 4500 rpms.
 
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