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Linkers m52 adjustment

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Old Dec 23, 2020 | 05:06 PM
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From: Port Charlotte
Default Linkers m52 adjustment

What is the proper process for adjusting the Linkert m52? It is on a 1945 WL. I have read turn the low speed out, three turns, about three turns, and five turns. Which should it be? Then adjust from there.
Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks! John
 
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Old Dec 23, 2020 | 06:05 PM
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From: la la land jerzey
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we do 2 - 2 1/2 turns on the low speed and 2 1./2 - 2 3/4 on the hi speed to start it - turn fuel on - new to you machine - full advance then back it off only 1/2 inch retard ( the most some like full advance cold to go ) -- turn the ignition on full choke 1/4 throttle and kick it like you mean it

reason is to see how good the sip is on the jetting - new engine no telling what the ring seal is - used engine but not worn out some will kick off on the first to the third kick - if the engine flutters and wont go

turn off the ignition pull the choke up all the way kick it over twice - then full choke 2 kicks at 1/4 throttle - up with the choke and down one click - throttle 1/4 turn the ignition on retarded 1/4 inch - and kick it again

you will become season at it the 45s are very timid and mild in starting - we install the eds E2000 magnetic ignition trigger you wont be sorry you did that

once running warm the hi speed i do riding it i richen it till it faulters in second gear at full throttle - then back off till i like the way it pulls -- good and warm find the best idle then turn it 2 clicks rich and watch the plugs - changing it one or two clicks you can see a difference in the plugs after a 20 minuet ride - takes a fell and a smell ( a lack of any ) on the exhaust to get it just right
 
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Old Dec 23, 2020 | 08:44 PM
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Thank you very much! I will keep this as a reference. I don’t think I will adjust it yet, as it has run quite well. I have had this bike since June. It has automatic advance distributor. It usually would start right away, maybe 2-3 kicks. I was told it had 2,000 miles since rebuild and always ran good. The ignition switch has four positions. To the left is lock, next right off, next on, all the way right for lights. One of the last times out it ran fine. I seem to neglect turning the lights on. Doing so the engine would kill. Next time out the same thing. I looked over the wiring and all seems well. I even disconnected the wire to the headlight. Now it doesn’t want to start. Does this seem like the switch is bad causing the no start? Also, when turning the switch to lights (not running) the oil pressure light will dim and sometimes go out. Bad switch?

Where is a good source for a 7/8 spark plug wrench?

Sorry for all the questions, I have a lot to learn. But, I am learning more everyday.
Thanks! John
 
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Old Dec 23, 2020 | 09:25 PM
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From: la la land jerzey
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no 7/8 plug socket available - but i have used reducers on bobbers and converted the spark plugs to standard 14mm - something you can get on the road cheap as the young guys are cross stating

use a test light and trace the power from the battery to the switch - then to the lights as 3 lights should be on - dash tail and head - then check hi beam then the horn

also the ground both battery and the frame - the plus term from the ignition in the first position - can be wired to the coil and a jumper to the rear brake switch - oil light and the gen light to the A term or switch if its a 32 E - check power to everything - loose term can knock the system out
 
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