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Crank assembly help

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Old Apr 23, 2023 | 02:13 PM
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Default Crank assembly help

I started to build my crank but if I tighten the crank pin nut down just a little the rods lock. Something is definitely wrong here. I don’t know if the trust washers, pin, or bearings are wrong. I used a crank pin from vtwin, p/n 10-0131 (1940-52 big twin UL). I’ve tried two different Sets of trust washers vtwin p/n 10-1284 (they say standard but the eastern p/n says .055”) and vtwin 10-1217 which is labeled .005” while the Eastern label says .060”. The bearings are standard size S&S p/n 493878. Rods have been honed to proper size. I can’t find the standard thrust washer thickness anywhere. Maybe Vtwin mislabeled them? Just for reference the left case is a ‘37 and right case is ‘48. I also could use some help finding the correct sprocket shaft seal. Thank you!
 
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Old Apr 23, 2023 | 02:30 PM
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Taper in the wheels themselves could be oversized, run into that with older flywheels occasionally. Using just the new crankpin, install, torque then measure the gap between wheels with the new thrust washers installed, then check the big journal rod end width. That's where I'd start with this.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2023 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by TwiZted Biker
Taper in the wheels themselves could be oversized, run into that with older flywheels occasionally. Using just the new crankpin, install, torque then measure the gap between wheels with the new thrust washers installed, then check the big journal rod end width. That's where I'd start with this.
I’ve got 1.590” between the wheels. I can’t get inside to measure between the pin but the recess is .090” each side which comes to 1.770”. Female rod measures 1.750” add the .110” for thrust washers we get 1.860”. Not going to fit.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2023 | 03:51 PM
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I ran into some challenges doing my flathead crank. The aftermarket pins were the problem, wrong angle on the taper, wrong length pin, wrong size big ends on the rods, wrong side clearance and on and on. Took a lot of messing around and fitting the rods to get side clearance and bearing clearance right. You should measure the old pin vs the new one and check the depth the pin protrudes on the nut side on both. Then get ready to make things work together.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2023 | 05:09 PM
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The new pin (left) and the one that came with the wheels. The new pin is roughly .010” longer than the original. Same amount of thread protrusion.


 
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Old Apr 23, 2023 | 07:53 PM
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Two different pins. One is stepped which I believe would be for a knuckle not a flathead.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2023 | 07:58 PM
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Flathead had different rods and rod ends. Why they did that I dont know but changing the pin to a larger journal will send you down the garden path as you're finding out. Its what happened to me and I came close to just pulling out the plastic and ordering a T&O rotating assy to get away from the drama and down-time.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2023 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by hellonewman
Flathead had different rods and rod ends. Why they did that I dont know but changing the pin to a larger journal will send you down the garden path as you're finding out. Its what happened to me and I came close to just pulling out the plastic and ordering a T&O rotating assy to get away from the drama and down-time.
I think you’re right about the pin but I trusted the part number. I’m going to assemble with the old pin to confirm that and it’s that’s true I’ll track down the correct one.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2023 | 06:22 PM
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Check this guy out.

Crap won't let me post a working link, Pacific Mike Youtube , had a vid on flathead wheels and the various parts for them
 

Last edited by TwiZted Biker; Apr 25, 2023 at 06:24 PM.
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Old Apr 25, 2023 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by TwiZted Biker
Check this guy out.

Crap won't let me post a working link, Pacific Mike Youtube , had a vid on flathead wheels and the various parts for them
hahahaha. I’ve watched his videos. I think the crank pin was the issue, new one on order. I wish he would have referenced part numbers when he was making that video.
 
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