WLA seat post binding
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Club Member
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 4,544
Likes: 5,875
From: Syracuse NY
WLA seat post binding
So I've got a bit of binding on my WLA seat post. I pulled the springs out and degreased the post, springs and frame tube.
I rolled the post on a flat table and it seems true. So I then backed off the Zerk fitting. Still binding. Ground down the spring end of the post. In case it had flared from bottoming out. Still binding.
So I'm thinking bronze bushing...but if 4-inches of the post goes in before it binds, maybe not the bushing.
The frame tube does not look tapered to me. Is it?
In a YouTube video by Pacific Mike, his servicing of the post/spring shows it al dropping in cleanly without binding.
Any ideas folks?
I rolled the post on a flat table and it seems true. So I then backed off the Zerk fitting. Still binding. Ground down the spring end of the post. In case it had flared from bottoming out. Still binding.
So I'm thinking bronze bushing...but if 4-inches of the post goes in before it binds, maybe not the bushing.
The frame tube does not look tapered to me. Is it?
In a YouTube video by Pacific Mike, his servicing of the post/spring shows it al dropping in cleanly without binding.
Any ideas folks?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 9,562
Likes: 7,917
From: Long Island, New York
I never had an issue with mine, but I know changing the bushing is an option. I wish I had more for you, hopefully some of the other fellas will jump in with experience, good luck.
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Club Member
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: Syracuse NY
Yes. I cleaned everything. But I think I figured out the issue.
The pre-load nut may have been tightened too far. It was set at 11"
I backed it out to 11.5" and the post moves freely in the frame.
I'm gonna try the seat and see if it binds or rebounds like it should.
I'll report back as to my outcome.
The pre-load nut may have been tightened too far. It was set at 11"
I backed it out to 11.5" and the post moves freely in the frame.
I'm gonna try the seat and see if it binds or rebounds like it should.
I'll report back as to my outcome.
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 4,544
Likes: 5,875
From: Syracuse NY
Update: The pogo stick springs hardly moves in a vise. It may have the fat boy springs in it. If I back off the pre-load, the thread post doesn't extend out the tube bottom.
I buggered up the threads in the steel plunger too. But I took a gamble to save $150 and ground off the first crappy threads and put it back together. Success there.
I put it all back in place, including the green buddy seat spring. I'm adding the rear buddy seat springs also. Just waiting on 45 Restoration to ship. (along with all my other stuff).
So maybe I'll be happy once I can get some seat time come spring.
I buggered up the threads in the steel plunger too. But I took a gamble to save $150 and ground off the first crappy threads and put it back together. Success there.
I put it all back in place, including the green buddy seat spring. I'm adding the rear buddy seat springs also. Just waiting on 45 Restoration to ship. (along with all my other stuff).
So maybe I'll be happy once I can get some seat time come spring.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 9,562
Likes: 7,917
From: Long Island, New York
Are you running the springs as found in the Pogo or a new set from Colony? I bought the Colony set, installed per the instructions and my weight and never bottomed out again, nice comfortable ride.
If you still have whatever came in the pogo in there, post up pictures. Maybe you have lifter springs or something else some farmer stuck in here 50 years ago. Could be the cause of all the issues. What was inside mine did not look like the manual, good luck.
If you still have whatever came in the pogo in there, post up pictures. Maybe you have lifter springs or something else some farmer stuck in here 50 years ago. Could be the cause of all the issues. What was inside mine did not look like the manual, good luck.
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