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1950 Frame ID?

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Old Dec 23, 2024 | 08:29 AM
  #11  
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Here is another engine I’m considering. I’m leaning towards this one. Please share your thoughts.

Thank you







 
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Old Dec 23, 2024 | 08:45 AM
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The VIN numbers on the second one do not look correct. They are either damaged or modified. You also need to confirm that the belly numbers match on the engine cases. And, there is nothing wrong with using G cass if you aren't trying to build a completely correct bike.

You need to consider the cost of shipping over time when purchashing thing separately. You'd be better off saving more money to get something closer to or mostly complete. And you would likely be better off joining the AMCA and going to swap meets in your area.

Paul
 
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Old Dec 23, 2024 | 09:32 AM
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Thanks Paul. I appreciate the advice. I’m actually looking forward to some swap meets
 
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Old Dec 23, 2024 | 10:46 AM
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Does it matter greatly if the cases match? I know that’s ideal, but I’m wondering on a budget build if it really matters. It will obviously be a frankenbike because all parts will be coming from different places, so do matching cases really matter?
 
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Old Dec 23, 2024 | 12:07 PM
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The case halves need to match. They are setup at the factory so that the bearing race holes are aligned / matched. Non matching cases can be difficult to align / match up correctly again, and not many shops can do that process correctly. And it's not cheap. So I recommend getting a matched set to begin with.

Paul
 
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Old Dec 23, 2024 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by pgreer
The case halves need to match. They are setup at the factory so that the bearing race holes are aligned / matched. Non matching cases can be difficult to align / match up correctly again, and not many shops can do that process correctly. And it's not cheap. So I recommend getting a matched set to begin with.

Paul
Thank you, do the stamping on top always match the stamping below?

The belly numbers match but they say “42” and the stamping on top says “46”?






 
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Old Dec 23, 2024 | 01:34 PM
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That has changed over the years, especially in 1975. But generally the bottom numbers should start with a series no newer than the VIN. So if it's 42WL***** the bottom numbers should start with 42 or earlier. That's because the cases may have been matched and then sat on the shelf before using and having a VIN stamped on them. But I have see legitimate exceptions to that which I believe occur when the cases are factory replacememts with the original VIN stamped on them. But you do need to be careful when too many things don't match and look closely at the VIN pad and characters used to be sure they haven't been modified.

Remember that 1969 and earlier frames did not have the VIN stamped on them, so deerming the date was based on casting numbers. Essentially, the VIN was only stamped on the engine cases, so that is what is titled. If you purchase engine cases, they need to have legitimate VIN stampings and ideally come with a title. Otherwise you will be going through you state DOT to try and obtain a title. Some states are easier than others. From your name here, I'd guess California. If that is correct, they can be difficult, nitpicky etc. And keep all recepits, everything and document anything you do.

Another thing you shoud consider is purchasing Palmers How to Restore your Harket Davidson book which goes into great detail on frame markings as well as a wealth of other information. It's widely considered the best resource available.

You can purchase the book directly from Debbie Palmer at the address and link below for morfe information.

dppublications@verizon.net
 

Last edited by pgreer; Dec 23, 2024 at 01:36 PM.
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Old Dec 23, 2024 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by pgreer
That has changed over the years, especially in 1975. But generally the bottom numbers should start with a series no newer than the VIN. So if it's 42WL***** the bottom numbers should start with 42 or earlier. That's because the cases may have been matched and then sat on the shelf before using and having a VIN stamped on them. But I have see legitimate exceptions to that which I believe occur when the cases are factory replacememts with the original VIN stamped on them. But you do need to be careful when too many things don't match and look closely at the VIN pad and characters used to be sure they haven't been modified.

Remember that 1969 and earlier frames did not have the VIN stamped on them, so deerming the date was based on casting numbers. Essentially, the VIN was only stamped on the engine cases, so that is what is titled. If you purchase engine cases, they need to have legitimate VIN stampings and ideally come with a title. Otherwise you will be going through you state DOT to try and obtain a title. Some states are easier than others. From your name here, I'd guess California. If that is correct, they can be difficult, nitpicky etc. And keep all recepits, everything and document anything you do.

Another thing you shoud consider is purchasing Palmers How to Restore your Harket Davidson book which goes into great detail on frame markings as well as a wealth of other information. It's widely considered the best resource available.

You can purchase the book directly from Debbie Palmer at the address and link below for morfe information.

dppublications@verizon.net
Great advice thank you. I’ll get the manual. I live in Maryland, I’m from NJ. I understand that titles are easy to get in Vermont and then you can transfer them to your state.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2024 | 03:41 PM
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Good timing! The new Revised 3rd edition is now available. http://howtorestoreyourharleydavidson.com/
 
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Old Dec 23, 2024 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe12RK
Good timing! The new Revised 3rd edition is now available. http://howtorestoreyourharleydavidson.com/
Thanks, Merry Christmas to me!
 
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