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There is a guy in Colorado that has a 45 solo frame for sale on the bay. I don't know him or what you consider what is cheap for an OEM frame, but generally it looks good in the photos. I didn't notice anything cut off, but only gave it a glance But be aware that those early frames were not always straight fron the factory. I've seen very few that didn't need some tweaking, but you also have to consider what it may have gone through (abuse and bad roads) in the last 80 or so years.
When you find an old frame you purchase to use, think very carefully before decicing to have it powder coated. The prep process is hard on the old frames because the powder coating shops want to sandblast with an aggressive size sand to prep the surface. Especially the framess with brass sweated gussets etc. I'd clean up the frame by hand and remove all rust with a light acid and use an expoy primer and 2k urethane paint.
The frame on the Bay, relisted, I believe is 1947 and up based on the three hole mount for the clutch cable. But then it has the solid mount for the coil, not sure when they started doing that, might be even later.
PS $2300 for an unmolested frame is fair market these days.
The frame on the Bay, relisted, I believe is 1947 and up based on the three hole mount for the clutch cable. But then it has the solid mount for the coil, not sure when they started doing that, might be even later.
PS $2300 for an unmolested frame is fair market these days.
Thanks and I agree, I plan on spending a lot of time at swap meets this summer!
I’m learning a TON about WLD engines. I hope the one I’m picking up Saturday has the correct parts.
I know the they have different cylinders and heads (I have the stamping numbers for these) and different size carbs (M51), but I just learned that they have different cams also. I can’t seem to determine how to identify the cams. Are there stampings on them anywhere? I have to assume that they’re hardened steel and the only way to identify them would be with a micrometer.
Any help identifying cams would be appreciated.
If this engine doesn’t have the correct cylinders and other distinct parts, the search will begin!
The cams should be marked 1, 2, 3 and 4. Although the G model (Servicar) cams should be marked 1G, 2G, 3G and 4G. The cams should work all within a range if years.
If I recall correctly, 59 and up cams will will work with 59-73 engines. The earlier cams had a different fit in the cover bushing, but I believe you can use an earlier cam cover on a later engine.
The cams should be marked 1, 2, 3 and 4. Although the G model (Servicar) cams should be marked 1G, 2G, 3G and 4G. The cams should work all within a range if years.
If I recall correctly, 59 and up cams will will work with 59-73 engines. The earlier cams had a different fit in the cover bushing, but I believe you can use an earlier cam cover on a later engine.
Paul
Thanks, but I believe the WLD had higher lobes, I guess I’ll take a micrometer to the swap meet.
They use SAE threads (no metric), but you don't use a tap and die for cleaning threads. They are designed to cut threads and remove metal, which you don't want to do. You need to get a full set of thread chasers for cleaning threads. All threaded holes should be cleaned of any debris and fluids and blown clean with compressed air before chasing threads.
They use SAE threads (no metric), but you don't use a tap and die for cleaning threads. They are designed to cut threads and remove metal, which you don't want to do. You need to get a full set of thread chasers for cleaning threads. All threaded holes should be cleaned of any debris and fluids and blown clean with compressed air before chasing threads.
Paul
Thread chasers? I’ve never heard of them, I’ll check it out. Thank you!
So with threads they are sae but harley liked odd sizes if memory serves me right for the motor you will need 1/4-24, 5/16-18, 3/8-24, 7/16-16, 3/8-16, 12-24, 10-32 and timing hole plug I can't remember.
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