GE Manifold Change
The holes on the OD could be used to rotate them out with a punch and hammer ?
Spanner wrench?
GOOD LUCK
The nipples spin into the threaded inlet that is part of your cylinder. In a stock application their are rivets to hold them in place. One picture looks like you might have allen head set screws. Take them out and put a small plumbers wrench on that chunk of aluminum, it should just spin out.
Installation of new nipples is another thing, lets see what you have first when you get those aftermarket nipples removed, good luck.
Pick below you can see the rivet holding the nipple to the rear cylinder.
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You spin the new nipple in until it bottoms out in the cylinder. Then using some kind of internal wrench (collet) keeping it tight, you drill a hole into the nipple via the hole in the cylinder. Then install the rivet with an anvil inside the nipple and a big hammer. Threads in cylinder must be completely clean to allow for easy rotation and complete sealing.
I have used JB weld on the threads, rivet and mating surface to assist in sealing, if it leaks you are sunk. If John Z sees this you will tell you what goop he uses, might have been Yamabond.
Nipple replacement is one of the hardest projects on a flathead, exasperated with the motor in the frame. I have done it twice, once solo and once with John Z. Neither event was fun, but both times successful. Tom Cotten is a linkert expert that is in the process of retiring. About 8 years ago when I did it the first time he made me rivets based on the opening size in my cylinder. They made a nice plug fit.
After all of that fun, you must do a bubble test of your manifold to make sure you got it right. Use the PEEK seals, throw the brass ones away, PEEK works and seals better. Good luck.
Last edited by Architect; Dec 29, 2025 at 09:56 AM.
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