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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 07:34 PM
  #21  
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A lot of torque specs have a low and a high range. When tightening a bolt tighten it to the high range. When doing maintenance and checking how tight a critical fastener is you try to loosen using the lower setting. If the torque wrench clicks before the fastener moves it is good. If the fastener moves first you re-torque it back to the higher value.
 
Old Dec 8, 2014 | 07:41 PM
  #22  
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You ever use torque adapters sometime you have to flip the wrench and reverse the direction to get clearance , they need to work both ways. The fixed head unit don't always fit.
 

Last edited by TwiZted Biker; Dec 8, 2014 at 08:04 PM.
Old Dec 8, 2014 | 08:47 PM
  #23  
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Old school.


 
Old Dec 8, 2014 | 11:18 PM
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The mirrors on the Street 500/750 have a left handed fastener.
 
Old Dec 8, 2014 | 11:22 PM
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So now you have them all torqued. How do you untorque them? Jeesh!
 
Old Dec 9, 2014 | 01:09 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by smokindownthehwy
All of my torque wrenches are click style reversable ratchet wrenches and work on either right or left handed threads. I wasn't aware of any that weren't.
I have a 1/2" drive Snap-On torque wrench that is not reversible, tighten only
 
Old Dec 9, 2014 | 02:55 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Sparkee...
A lot of torque specs have a low and a high range. When tightening a bolt tighten it to the high range. When doing maintenance and checking how tight a critical fastener is you try to loosen using the lower setting. If the torque wrench clicks before the fastener moves it is good. If the fastener moves first you re-torque it back to the higher value.
I disagree. First of all always torque to the low end of the torque specification. Engineering torque is established based upon thread deformation to ensure 100% of (thread) surface in (load) bearing. Torquing more than necessary (i.e. the lower torque value) causes fatigue damage to the threads. The highest torque value is based upon how far you can go without actually causing microscopic fractures to the metal of the threads. Older fasteners that are reused can actually facture due to work-harding of the metal that makes it brittle. Fasteners should not be torqued more than 3-times and if you reach that point then replace the fastener.

When actually applying the torque if the fastener doesn't turn before the torque wrench clicks then it's already torques to a value higher than the setting on the torque wrench. In aerospace the torque specifications require at least 1/4 turn of the fastener (bolt or nut) when applying torque.

On a final note the use of the fastener also determines how important torque is. A fastener in shear loading doesn't actually require torque because the load (force) is not on the threads. A fastener in tension does because the threads are carrying the engineering loads (force). Torque on a fastener in shear is just related to keeping the fastener from working loose due to vibration. Most external fasteners on a motorcycle, such as engine mounts, are in shear while engine fasteners, such as head bolts and rod bolts, are in tension.
 
Old Dec 9, 2014 | 03:02 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by rpking
I have a 1/2" drive Snap-On torque wrench that is not reversible, tighten only
That's interesting and I didn't know that. I wonder why Snap-On doesn't provide a reverseable ratchet torque wrench that can't be used on both left and right hand threads. Perhaps it's so they can also sell a left-handed torque wrench and make twice as much money from their customers.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 03:47 PM
  #29  
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Rizzo did you put somebody up to this. Buahahauhaha
 
Old Dec 11, 2014 | 08:09 PM
  #30  
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I'll have to take your word. I am not an engineer, this is just what my mentor old time mechanic taught me 30 years ago. He was a self taught jack of all trades and very good at fixing everything. No formal training and learned everything he knew on his own passing it on to all that worked for him. Right or wrong I'll still follow everything he taught me, if it is not right, it is close enough.
Originally Posted by smokindownthehwy
I disagree. First of all always torque to the low end of the torque specification. Engineering torque is established based upon thread deformation to ensure 100% of (thread) surface in (load) bearing. Torquing more than necessary (i.e. the lower torque value) causes fatigue damage to the threads. The highest torque value is based upon how far you can go without actually causing microscopic fractures to the metal of the threads. Older fasteners that are reused can actually facture due to work-harding of the metal that makes it brittle. Fasteners should not be torqued more than 3-times and if you reach that point then replace the fastener.

When actually applying the torque if the fastener doesn't turn before the torque wrench clicks then it's already torques to a value higher than the setting on the torque wrench. In aerospace the torque specifications require at least 1/4 turn of the fastener (bolt or nut) when applying torque.

On a final note the use of the fastener also determines how important torque is. A fastener in shear loading doesn't actually require torque because the load (force) is not on the threads. A fastener in tension does because the threads are carrying the engineering loads (force). Torque on a fastener in shear is just related to keeping the fastener from working loose due to vibration. Most external fasteners on a motorcycle, such as engine mounts, are in shear while engine fasteners, such as head bolts and rod bolts, are in tension.
 



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