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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 09:16 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ewoods8393
I am aware that is married to it. Correct me if I am wrong but with the SEPT dont I have to dyno and reprogram with every part I change?
First let me say I am just getting into tuning, I am no pro at tuning but I do have a good understanding of fuel injection and computers. You may not need to retune depending on the parts you are changing. Slipons themselves do not require tuning, add an air cleaner and you should, do the cam then you must. If you have already dynoed you could get away with just changing from one slipon to another.

When researching I chose the SESPT for my simple stage 1 upgrade. First of all it is the most supported tuner in my area, but also allows a person to upgrade in the future. I felt confident I can do my own tuning using it's Smart Tuning feature and even as complicated as it seems to be I feel it is a very powerful tuner once you figure it out. I have had to reverse engineer more complicated systems than these. The SEPST allows you to go deeper into the tuning for fine tuning if required. And if all else fail and I mess it up I can always run it over to my dealer and have them throw it on the dyno. Around here they want $600 just for a dyno tune. I am not into squeaking every once of power out of the Glide, I just want it running a little smoother and cooler and if an increase of performance is a side effect, I'll take it.

My next choice was the Power Vision which also has "Auto Tune". Still doesn't give you every ounce of power a good dyno technician may get you, good technician being the key, but will probably get you close enough.

So my take is unless you want bragging rights with a dyno printout, do it yourself. Use a unit with a smart tune capability that a tuner in your area supports. But I believe these smart tune features are good enough for most folks and if you change a part, make a few smart/auto tunes and away you go.

But if you are going all out, find a reputable tuner and get it on a dyno.
 
Old Jan 13, 2015 | 01:42 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by ewoods8393
So far not having troubles with it. Never really did anything with it. As for not messing with it, I have the software and have done a ton of research and it appears that not only can you fine tune it while at the dyno but you can also select preset tuning. Fuel pack gives you values for each item it allows control of and you select a value based on your setup. The user needs to enter the values. The SE one allows you to download a programming stage right to the ecm without any input from the user other than a yes and are you sure. You can also go into the programming and change or tweak things, not recommended, and that should be done by someone with the skills and training. With that said, the fuel pack is easier to change settings and test as you need no cables or a laptop to do it. A lot of folks here say SE tuners suck others say best out there. I am trying to have what's best for my bike installed so I get power and reliability from it.

sounds like you have the software. have you read the user manual which is in the software. The SEPro or SEPST is a flash tuner, it flashes a table of instructions which the ecm uses under different conditions. yes it works the same as TTS & PV in that regard. The fuel pack tricks the ecm to add/subtract fuel. It is not a tuner as compared to the flash tuners.


the closest to preset tuning is that the starting map provided by the software can be flashed and then not tweaked.


Not recommended, by whom? the reason you have a flash tuner is to use it to get the best out of the engine, of course you would change or tweak the base map.


now read my sig line.
 
Old Jan 13, 2015 | 02:50 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by oct1949
Once hooked up and tuned your SEpST is Married to that bike.

Have had my SERT the older style SEpST since 07,, back then IMO it was the best tuner on the market... now If I was to get a new bike I really don't know what tuner I'd go with..

But with that statement the SERT or SEpST is only as good as your "Tuner" was or "The guy doing the dyno tune"

I Haven't touched and haven't needed to touch my SERT for the last 8yrs/52K miles except the one time at 15K miles when I added the cams and they tweaked it at that time.

If the SEpST is like the SERT, it will have over 2300 adjustments.... and those who tune with them need to go to school for several weeks just to learn how to tune with it...

No way would I try to Tweak mine or re-tune it .. just way too many ways to mess up.....

Again its MO that an average tune with the SEpST would be superior to anything the FP3 would give you.

Even if you've done major engine work . cams, heads and pipes I'd still pay for a new tune to get the most out of those mods VS forgoing the SE tuner and installing the FP3..

all of this is just My Opinion...

just do some research before making you decision..





.
TTS Master Tune is from the same company that originally made the SERT.
 
Old Jan 13, 2015 | 04:06 AM
  #24  
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Original fuel pak is a piggy back tuner that works off throttle position. Cheap and easy solution for stage one upgrades. Some people, myself included use them with no troubles. Dealers seem to hate them. These are of no use beyond a stage one. Pro tuners are awesome if you want to spend the money. Upgrades and mods are limitless. Around here dealers are charging around $2000 for stage one and dynos. Price doesn't warrant the gains to me. My bike has download and fuel pak and suits me just fine. No plans for motorwork so I'm good. In future if I ever decide to go down that road I'll have to upgrade to a pro tuner. Keep the S.E. Tuner and dial it in.
 
Old Jan 13, 2015 | 04:56 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by oct1949
Once hooked up and tuned your SEpST is Married to that bike.

Have had my SERT the older style SEpST since 07,, back then IMO it was the best tuner on the market... now If I was to get a new bike I really don't know what tuner I'd go with..

But with that statement the SERT or SEpST is only as good as your "Tuner" was or "The guy doing the dyno tune"

I Haven't touched and haven't needed to touch my SERT for the last 8yrs/52K miles except the one time at 15K miles when I added the cams and they tweaked it at that time.

If the SEpST is like the SERT, it will have over 2300 adjustments.... and those who tune with them need to go to school for several weeks just to learn how to tune with it...

No way would I try to Tweak mine or re-tune it .. just way too many ways to mess up.....

Again its MO that an average tune with the SEpST would be superior to anything the FP3 would give you.

Even if you've done major engine work . cams, heads and pipes I'd still pay for a new tune to get the most out of those mods VS forgoing the SE tuner and installing the FP3..

all of this is just My Opinion...

just do some research before making you decision..
.

I'm scared of my washing machine because I always seem to destroy clothes when I try and use it. But many people around the world seem to be able to use them OK several times a week.

You don't need to "go to school" to learn how to use the SEPST or any of the other flash tuners. Hopefully my link will explain how the ECM does the job of controlling the fueling side of the tune. Once you understand what it's trying to do, then interpretting what the software is showing you and allowing you to alter becomes easier.

If you just want to autotune the bike for a stage 1, then Foxster's guide spells out all the steps for you and will help you get the VE tables as close as necessary. You then leave them alone.

If you want to cure popping, cool the engine when idling at lights, improve fuel economy in the "cruise range" whilst still getting optimum performance when you need it, lower your idle rpm, etc., then you're in the same boat as lots of other interested amateurs who have explained time and time again in the tuning threads how to do it and will do again if only you'd ask.

I said that support for the SEPST was poor. I was referring to HD's support. Community support is high.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/ignit...on-thread.html

Playing with numbers in the software without an understanding of what they do will cause problems. Don't do it. If you wonder what that gap is for on your lawnmower, do you stick your finger in it?

Don't give up on the SEPST. Unless you want to start changing the cam timing, it will do everything you want to do. The same cannot be said of piggyback tuners.
 
Old Jan 13, 2015 | 05:04 AM
  #26  
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By the way; my web page started as a tool to help me get clear in my mind what was going on in the ECM. I have tried to tidy it up a bit in the hopes that it will help others understand too. So if there's anything that's unclear or you find any mistakes, then please do say: If a little bit of effort on my part can make life easier for a lot of other people, then it's worth my while.
 
Old Jan 13, 2015 | 12:22 PM
  #27  
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Life is so much easier with a carburetor..... Screw those tuners and dynos.
 
Old Jan 13, 2015 | 03:16 PM
  #28  
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$2000 for a SEPT and dyno? Ouch! $700 total for me. Got the local dealer to match an online price for the tuner and an indy did the tune for $300 flat.

Is sounds like the OP is looking for the easiest way to do things. Nothing wrong with that. However, the SEPT can do so much more than a Fuel Pack. Do yourself a favor and learn how to set up the Tuner, you'll be much happier in the long run.

Good luck.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 10:32 PM
  #29  
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I cant find a dyno here. I was told its stage one programmed but I have no way of knowing for sure atleast until I get the cable i ordered for it. The dealer says they can reprogram it no problem but when I ask them what they would reprogram it to without a dyno reading and they said they know what they are doing.
 
Old Jan 14, 2015 | 03:31 AM
  #30  
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You can get 90+% of the way to the perfect tune (at least as far as fueling is concerned) without a dyno. Timing doesn't change a great deal with a stage 1, so a dyno tune is a lot of money to spend for very little incremental improvement.

There's also the risk that you choose a poor dyno who doesn't understand how the closed-loop system works and just fiddles with the AFR table to produce better WOT figures whilst making real-world riding no more performant or efficient, even potentially worse. From what I've read from people on this forum alone, it sounds like those dyno guys are the majority rather than the exception.
 



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