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OK the newer bikes use the map senor as well as the crank sensor for timing, pretty sure you need both plugs in and an extra plug to test it.
On my 01 the black/white wire to coil is hot, then two of them are triggers, cranking wit a test light in between should flash.
Do you have a manual with a skematic, it will also tell you the test methed for coil, (ohms)
OK the newer bikes use the map senor as well as the crank sensor for timing, pretty sure you need both plugs in and an extra plug to test it.
On my 01 the black/white wire to coil is hot, then two of them are triggers, cranking wit a test light in between should flash.
Do you have a manual with a skematic, it will also tell you the test methed for coil, (ohms)
Ok so if I understand correctly I need to have both spark plugs in the engine, one of them connected to the coil (w spark plug wire attached) and the other disconnected but having the unattached spark plug wire connected to an additional spark plug (in this case it would be a test light which I don't have but can get). Having this set up should then produce a spark on the plug (or light) which is not in the engine but is attached to the spark plug wire? I think that's right.
I do have a manual and will check if it has a skematic (its the standard shop manual so I'm guessing it does). The connector (female end) which plugs into the coil does have 4 wires, once I get to the bike later today I can check the color on the wires. I can then test for ohms. When checking should the ignition be on and/or does the bike need to be started or will the meter produce the correct reading without current being pushed. I'm going to assume there is a resting ohms level produced without.
This is all fairly new to me and appreciate the feedback. I would really like to figure this out to learn something new. I have 2 project bikes ('55 TR5 & '70 T120RT - Triumphs) that I'll start on after this road block and learning everything I can on any bike always transitions to future trouble shooting.
I'm going to chat with the local Harley shop today just to see if they have anything else they recommend. I'll mention this latest test you recommend and see if they have any other tips.
When you lifted the tank, did you loosen any wire harness connections under the tank strap area?
That happened to a buddy of mine, and he called me with the same problem. When I removed the tank strap, the whole thing was unplugged. Soon as I plugged it back in, it fired immediately. He hadn't noticed that he had unplugged it when he had it apart.
Yes from what I have read both sparks in the bike and an extra one grounded and the spark plug wire on it.
Yea ask your dealer about this I would be interested in what they say.
One of the coil wires will be 12 v with the key on, two are from the emc and are a trigger/ground for the spark. The fourth is an ion sensor in the coil, this is only for the fuel injected model the carb does not have it.
If we know if the coil is getting juice we can go fro there.
Did you ever try putting some gas in the spark plug holes to see if it would start?
Last edited by Harleycruiser; Jan 23, 2015 at 09:04 PM.
When you lifted the tank, did you loosen any wire harness connections under the tank strap area?
That happened to a buddy of mine, and he called me with the same problem. When I removed the tank strap, the whole thing was unplugged. Soon as I plugged it back in, it fired immediately. He hadn't noticed that he had unplugged it when he had it apart.
This was one of my thoughts as well. I didn't unplug anything but I did have to move the tank around a bunch in order to reach both rocker boxes to get everything disasembled. I initially wanted to take the tank off but could slide the cross over tubing off. The only way I could see getting it off was by cutting it, since I couldn't get it off I was afraid I wouldn't be able to get one back on. It may come to cutting and checking wires.
So far staring at the bike hasn't worked, was hoping I had a bit if the 'force' in me but it seems I don't
Did you ever try putting some gas in the spark plug holes to see if it would start?
I thought about it last night but wanted to first see if I was getting a spark.
As for checking connections under the tank I'll have to lift the tank again. I did this a little bit but with a full tank of gas it wasn't as simple. May be draining the tank again after I get a larger gas can (current is 2 gallons).
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OK the newer bikes use the map senor as well as the crank sensor for timing, pretty sure you need both plugs in and an extra plug to test it.
On my 01 the black/white wire to coil is hot, then two of them are triggers, cranking wit a test light in between should flash.
Do you have a manual with a skematic, it will also tell you the test methed for coil, (ohms)
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor is used to measure the intake vacuum to assess the acceleration and adjust the fuel delivery accordingly, and it will advance or retard the ignition timing.
The crank sensor determines the initial timing.
You can test for spark with both plugs removed, connected to the HT leads and held against ground.
I thought about it last night but wanted to first see if I was getting a spark.
As for checking connections under the tank I'll have to lift the tank again. I did this a little bit but with a full tank of gas it wasn't as simple. May be draining the tank again after I get a larger gas can (current is 2 gallons).
Correct, no point in priming it with gas down the plug hole if you haven't yet confirmed spark.
If you have spark but it does not fire, but does start when primed with gas in the plug hole (you could also use starter fluid sprayed into the intake), then it confirms a fuel delivery problem, possible the fuel line quick connect etc.
If there's no spark and no fuel, then it something like the crank sensor or the electrical connectors for it.
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