Well here's a fun one...missing fork stem nut
Thread Starter
|
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 12,234
Likes: 7,815
From: Along the shoreline in SW FL
She had a pretty bad chatter when approaching stop signs/lights....when applying from brake. Always chalked that up to the funky banana caliper up front, and/or bad front axle bushings in the bottom forks, 'n old blown seals in front forks. As I replaced those bit by bit last year...got a little better but never went fully away. Now I know. No...I push her hard.
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,137
Likes: 51,478
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Check for that star nut under that upper tree, gonna look something like item #5 in the picture in this thread.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...aring-kit.html
Thread Starter
|
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 12,234
Likes: 7,815
From: Along the shoreline in SW FL
Thanks for the tips...
Yup I see that start nut there. So when the upper fork tubes were in there and those top bolts tightened in from the top-o-the-tree...that was holdin' her together OK I suppose.
Whelp I'm not one for patience with drilling...went in a little off center, couldn't get to center again. The Napa ez-outs failed. The Lowes spin outs did more damage than anything...ate into the opening a bit on the head. Doubt I'll be able to hand guide a larger drill bit in there and keep it centered right..it's gonna walk off center and follow that incorrect 7/64 hole I drilled...and be eating into threads on the head. 'fraid it's better to just pull the tanks 'n rocker box 'n head and take her to my buddies machine shop.
Yup I see that start nut there. So when the upper fork tubes were in there and those top bolts tightened in from the top-o-the-tree...that was holdin' her together OK I suppose.
Whelp I'm not one for patience with drilling...went in a little off center, couldn't get to center again. The Napa ez-outs failed. The Lowes spin outs did more damage than anything...ate into the opening a bit on the head. Doubt I'll be able to hand guide a larger drill bit in there and keep it centered right..it's gonna walk off center and follow that incorrect 7/64 hole I drilled...and be eating into threads on the head. 'fraid it's better to just pull the tanks 'n rocker box 'n head and take her to my buddies machine shop.
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,137
Likes: 51,478
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Smart move on the head repair I can tell you all kinda horror stories about buggered up exhaust bolts I've dealt with over the years. If it does go a little sideways on you and the hole gets damaged it's not a major aw **** and you don't have to weld and redrill things. I use whats called a step stud for that kinda repair. There's enough meat you tap the hole to 3/8" and install a 2 size stud instead , stronger and holds the pipe better.
Far as the front end goes sounds like you are missing the top nut but look at the bright side with the star nut in there you now know the head bearing and races aren't wiped out from running loose .
If you don't have one please pick up a torque adapter for the head bolts and a decent inch lbs torque wrench for the rocker boxes . Use the metal/silicon gaskets when you redo her not the old style paper ones . Any issues finding some pm me I'll send you a set. Amazon has the adapters, the head bolts are 9/16" unless somebody put in the 12 point bolts then those are 7/16" if I remember right.
Far as the front end goes sounds like you are missing the top nut but look at the bright side with the star nut in there you now know the head bearing and races aren't wiped out from running loose .
If you don't have one please pick up a torque adapter for the head bolts and a decent inch lbs torque wrench for the rocker boxes . Use the metal/silicon gaskets when you redo her not the old style paper ones . Any issues finding some pm me I'll send you a set. Amazon has the adapters, the head bolts are 9/16" unless somebody put in the 12 point bolts then those are 7/16" if I remember right.
Thread Starter
|
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 12,234
Likes: 7,815
From: Along the shoreline in SW FL
If you don't have one please pick up a torque adapter for the head bolts and a decent inch lbs torque wrench for the rocker boxes . Use the metal/silicon gaskets when you redo her not the old style paper ones . Any issues finding some pm me I'll send you a set. Amazon has the adapters, the head bolts are 9/16" unless somebody put in the 12 point bolts then those are 7/16" if I remember right.
Thanks for the tip of putting in a stud...may do that...actually may pull rear head and stud that one too...I like that idea.
Thread Starter
|
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 12,234
Likes: 7,815
From: Along the shoreline in SW FL
I'll give that a shot before I pull the console 'n tanks 'n rocker boxes 'n heads again....worth a shot. Dunno how much side leverage I can get with the frame down-tubes to each side....plus the top of the sheared bolt is like a sixteenth of an inch recessed in the hole. But worth a few whacks.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
6 Weirdest Harley-Davidsons Ever Sold to the Public
Verdad Gallardo
7 Times Harley-Davidson Chucked Tradition Out the Window
Verdad Gallardo
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 27,097
Likes: 4,676
From: Frozelandia, Minnysota
I've watched far better welders than me weld an appropriately sized rod or bolt onto the broken stud (yes, even broke off flush ones) and then turn them right out - the welding gets the broken piece hot enough to melt any loctite, and even breaks rusty ones loose. If you know a really good welder (mig, not stick!) might be worth a try; wouldn't risk more damage with drilling. You'd have a nice straight hole to drill/tap for a stud if you still wanted to. What could go wrong - if it didn't come out that way, you'd have to grind the end flush again to continue drilling. Haven't seen that happen yet. Used to to have very experienced welders do that with expensive aircraft parts, didn't want to chance messing up parts in the 10's of 1000's of dollars - or more.