Yes...another fluids question! Need to switch...
Club Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 145,895
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From: 40 miles Northeast of Indy..
Maybe if you had an old timer's engine I'd might agree with the straight 50 in the engine.....
Now at 66yrs old and I've rode for 51 yrs I may qualify as an old timer...
So what does this old timer use in his 07 Heritage TC 96''er.. Well I use Mobil 1 V-twin syn 20-50 in all three holes.. As I've tried many others and I am sold on it and like it the best in all three compartments. 51 k miles on it and its running better and stronger as each yr passes and has never had glitch one since new in 07
..
Now at 66yrs old and I've rode for 51 yrs I may qualify as an old timer...
So what does this old timer use in his 07 Heritage TC 96''er.. Well I use Mobil 1 V-twin syn 20-50 in all three holes.. As I've tried many others and I am sold on it and like it the best in all three compartments. 51 k miles on it and its running better and stronger as each yr passes and has never had glitch one since new in 07
..
Last edited by oct1949; May 11, 2015 at 03:33 PM.
Supporter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 15,788
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From: along the shore of Mishigami
Does the "old timer" tell you the synthetic oil will cause your bearings to "skate"? Be careful of mixing different brands, I don't know what additives are in the Lucas or if they are compatible with M1.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 20,616
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From: anacoco, la
Refer to your owner's manual.
I use Redline Shockproof in my tranny, SYN3 in my engine and primary.
I'm thinking about trying the Redline 20w-60w in my engine on my next service as I will be riding south and I would and added protection.
Whatever engine oil that you decide to use, I would recommend that you should be sure to verify that it has the V-Twin additive.
I use Redline Shockproof in my tranny, SYN3 in my engine and primary.
I'm thinking about trying the Redline 20w-60w in my engine on my next service as I will be riding south and I would and added protection.
Whatever engine oil that you decide to use, I would recommend that you should be sure to verify that it has the V-Twin additive.
also, afaik, there is no specific 'v-twin' additive in oil. most motorcycle specific oil is marketed as such so that you can use it in oil sumps that are shared between engine oil and clutch plates. a hd big twin does not share such a sump so good old engine oil is perfectly fine in there. and as a bonus, shell rotella t 15-40 is jaso rated for clutch use so it works great in the primary and can be had for about $12 a gallon, good for several oil changes...
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,874
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From: Houston, TX
I really don't understand why you post in the Evo section and then seek the advice of twin cam riders.
Anyways, for your Evo, all you need during spring/summer is Valvoline VR1 50w, and in the fall and winter, Valvoline VR1 20w-50w. You don't need synthetic or anything fancier than that in your evo.
Anyways, for your Evo, all you need during spring/summer is Valvoline VR1 50w, and in the fall and winter, Valvoline VR1 20w-50w. You don't need synthetic or anything fancier than that in your evo.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 254
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From: dobson nc
amsoil
well since nobody else has brought it up I guess I will. lol. Amsoil has a chart with the leading oils on it and how they stack up against each other if you want to check it out. I have been running amsoil 20-50 in motor and primary. 75-140 gear oil in tranny. change at 5000 and oil still looks good. My ride is a 2013 electra glide ultra limited. o by the way lucas oil didn't stack up against other oils so good. you are running better oil than lucas is.
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 279
Likes: 1
From: So Cal
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,607
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From: Idaho
Agreed, unless you only ride when it's +50 degrees, straight 50w is a bad idea. IMO straight weight oils are rarely a good idea, there are exceptions but not many.
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