First start up after rebuild tips
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Road Master
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 817
Likes: 26
From: PA
First start up after rebuild tips
I just put the SE 103 big bore kit in my 09 Ultra along with Wood Performance 222 cams, new clutch pack and Clutch Wizard, and about done putting back on all the repainted parts. My first go round doing this level of work.
Looking for any tips on how to do the initial start up and what to look for that might indicate something is wrong.
Temps will hit low 40s this Thursday, Jan 7th, so that's the fire it up date.
Looking for any tips on how to do the initial start up and what to look for that might indicate something is wrong.
Temps will hit low 40s this Thursday, Jan 7th, so that's the fire it up date.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 11,226
Likes: 3,049
From: St.Louis Mo.
new builds, start the engine and run till the jugs just start to get warm to the touch, then shut if off letting it cool completely. look for any oil leaks. repeat this about four times increaseing the time it's being run alittle each time. keep a fan a it the entire time. i always ride it very easy and change the oil at fifty miles. break it in for a 1000 miles at least. some will tell you to ride it like you stole it, not me. long life is what i've always been looking for and this works. S&S recommends breaking it in for 2000 miles. at least in their old book.
Last edited by hardheaded; Jan 10, 2016 at 09:08 AM.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 817
Likes: 26
From: PA
new builds, start the engine run for a till the jugs just start to get warm to the touch, then shut if off letting it cool completely. look for any oil leaks. repeat this aboutfour times increaseing the time it's being run alittle each time. keep a fan a it the entire time. i always ride it very easy and change the oil at fifty miles. break it in for a 1000 miles at least. some will tell you to ride it like you stole it, not me. long life is what i've always been looking for and this works. S&S recommends breaking it in for 2000 miles. at least in their old book.
thanks for the help.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 817
Likes: 26
From: PA
Not sure what is meant by pics of the build but I do have pics of the entire process of removing the top end, cams, cam bearings, and installing the new, but there's already some really good threads of guys showing how they put in 107 kits and cam installs, so I didn't do another.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,400
Likes: 267
From: Southern California
- Disable the Ignition. Either pull and ground the Spark Plug Wires, or disconnect the Wiring Harness from the Coil.
- Crank the Engine until the Oil Pressure Light goes out. Crank with the Starter Motor for no more than 30 seconds at a time with a 2 minute cool down in between.
- Place a large Fan so that it blows air on the engine and turn it on. Place your hand on the opposite side of the Cylinders from the Fan and make sure there is a significant amount of air flowing around the Cylinders.
- Re-enable the Ignition and start the engine.
- Gently vary engine RPM between ~1,500 RPM and ~2,500 RPM. Do this for about 2 - 5 Minutes. Varying the engine speed is important so that the oil that is being slung around in the Crankcase by the Flywheels the Connecting Rods, Etc. doesn't concentrate on just one area. Varying the RPM makes sure every thing gets a reasonable amount of lubrication.
- Check for oil leaks.
- Take the bike for a ride of abut 5 - 10 miles. Once the engine is fully warmed up; At ~45 MPH accelerate at full Throttle up to ~60 MPH. Do this about 3 times. You do not want to lug the engine but you do want it to pull hard from a low RPM. This generates a high Mean Effective Pressure in the Combustion Chambers. This pushes the Rings very tightly against the Cylinder Bore and seats the Rings well.
- Take it easy on the engine for the first 500 miles or so; then change the Oil the Filter and the Spark Plugs.
Last edited by Bluehighways; Jan 4, 2016 at 02:27 PM.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 50
From: Louisville, KY
- Disable the Ignition. Either pull and ground the Spark Plug Wires, or disconnect the Wiring Harness from the Coil.
- Crank the Engine until the Oil Pressure Light goes out. Crank with the Starter Motor for no more than 30 seconds at a time with a 2 minute cool down in between.
- Place a large Fan so that it blows air on the engine and turn it on. Place your hand on the opposite side of the Cylinders from the Fan and make sure there is a significant amount of air flowing around the Cylinders.
- Re-enable the Ignition and start the engine.
- Gently vary engine RPM between ~1,500 RPM and ~2,500 RPM. Do this for about 2 - 5 Minutes. Varying the engine speed is important so that the oil that is being slung around in the Crankcase by the Flywheels the Connecting Rods, Etc. doesn't concentrate on just one area. Varying the RPM makes sure every thing gets a reasonable amount of lubrication.
- Check for oil leaks.
- Take the bike for a ride of abut 5 - 10 miles. Once the engine is fully warmed up; At ~45 MPH accelerate at full Throttle up to ~60 MPH. Do this about 3 times. You do not want to lug the engine but you do want it to pull hard from a low RPM. This generates a high Mean Effective Pressure in the Combustion Chambers. This pushes the Rings very tightly against the Cylinder Bore and seats the Rings well.
- Take it easy on the engine for the first 500 miles or so; then change the Oil the Filter and the Spark Plugs.
I always follow a similar routine ( 1 & 2) when taking my sports car or motorcycle out of storage.
Last edited by 1004ron; Jan 4, 2016 at 07:53 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2015
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From: NorCal
- Disable the Ignition. Either pull and ground the Spark Plug Wires, or disconnect the Wiring Harness from the Coil.
- Crank the Engine until the Oil Pressure Light goes out. Crank with the Starter Motor for no more than 30 seconds at a time with a 2 minute cool down in between.
- Place a large Fan so that it blows air on the engine and turn it on. Place your hand on the opposite side of the Cylinders from the Fan and make sure there is a significant amount of air flowing around the Cylinders.
- Re-enable the Ignition and start the engine.
- Gently vary engine RPM between ~1,500 RPM and ~2,500 RPM. Do this for about 2 - 5 Minutes. Varying the engine speed is important so that the oil that is being slung around in the Crankcase by the Flywheels the Connecting Rods, Etc. doesn't concentrate on just one area. Varying the RPM makes sure every thing gets a reasonable amount of lubrication.
- Check for oil leaks.
- Take the bike for a ride of abut 5 - 10 miles. Once the engine is fully warmed up; At ~45 MPH accelerate at full Throttle up to ~60 MPH. Do this about 3 times. You do not want to lug the engine but you do want it to pull hard from a low RPM. This generates a high Mean Effective Pressure in the Combustion Chambers. This pushes the Rings very tightly against the Cylinder Bore and seats the Rings well.
- Take it easy on the engine for the first 500 miles or so; then change the Oil the Filter and the Spark Plugs.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 817
Likes: 26
From: PA
I'm really glad all of you offered your break in processes and explanations. I had no idea what was involved.
Looks like I better start a little earlier in the day!
I'll report back on how things turn out.
Looks like I better start a little earlier in the day!
I'll report back on how things turn out.
Last edited by beammeup; Jan 4, 2016 at 08:46 PM.