Wannabe rider - Questions for safe riding!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 9,332
Likes: 3,871
From: Upstate New York
Lots of good advice has been offered here. For the record, I was 29 when I began street riding. To be sure, I had ridden dirt bikes for six years before that, and that experience gave me a leg up on bike handling. Dirt is a great place to learn how to recover from a skid and other useful skills in a less threatening environment.
I started street riding on a 250 Yamaha and moved up to a 550 a 650 then a Sportster as I gained experience (and $$$). Remember, life is a journey, not a destination. Enjoy the trip.
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 41
Likes: 4
From: KC MO
Welcome, and you’ve started off correctly – 1st, getting on this Forum, asking questions and reviewing old posts. Lots of great info here. Check in frequently, worth the time. 2nd, you are taking the New Rider Course – learning the proper techniques and skills to safely ride.
I’m a new rider too. Took the New Rider course this spring, and quickly figured out I needed lots of practice to get comfortable on a bike. I, too, wanted to get an 883 Iron to start, but decided on a Honda 250 Rebel to improve my riding skills. I’ve got over 100 miles on the Honda now, almost all residential areas, lots of starts, stops, cornering, slow-speed maneuvers, and getting comfortable in traffic. I will get the 883, or maybe a Dyna, later this fall or next spring.
And I’m a bit paranoid with riding gear, and went with quality first as I expect to get years of use/value from them. Shoei modular helmet, Bohn Armor pants/shirt, Draggin’ jeans/shirt. I am using an old pair of Red Wing engineer boots, no problems shifting, and will get good riding boots later. And I am using an old pair of deerskin gloves, comfortable in summer weather, will get better gloves later. The leather jacket, maybe chaps, will also come later this fall when the weather changes.
As far as bags on the bike, I’ve always been a light packer, necessities only. I can get by with a small backpack for weekend trips, but may add a rack on the new bike just in case it’s needed. I plan on getting a small fork bag, for incidentals, and a swingarm bag for tools, raingear, etc. - I don't think I'll ever need the big bags.
Good luck on your new adventure, and ride safely.
I’m a new rider too. Took the New Rider course this spring, and quickly figured out I needed lots of practice to get comfortable on a bike. I, too, wanted to get an 883 Iron to start, but decided on a Honda 250 Rebel to improve my riding skills. I’ve got over 100 miles on the Honda now, almost all residential areas, lots of starts, stops, cornering, slow-speed maneuvers, and getting comfortable in traffic. I will get the 883, or maybe a Dyna, later this fall or next spring.
And I’m a bit paranoid with riding gear, and went with quality first as I expect to get years of use/value from them. Shoei modular helmet, Bohn Armor pants/shirt, Draggin’ jeans/shirt. I am using an old pair of Red Wing engineer boots, no problems shifting, and will get good riding boots later. And I am using an old pair of deerskin gloves, comfortable in summer weather, will get better gloves later. The leather jacket, maybe chaps, will also come later this fall when the weather changes.
As far as bags on the bike, I’ve always been a light packer, necessities only. I can get by with a small backpack for weekend trips, but may add a rack on the new bike just in case it’s needed. I plan on getting a small fork bag, for incidentals, and a swingarm bag for tools, raingear, etc. - I don't think I'll ever need the big bags.
Good luck on your new adventure, and ride safely.
Last edited by LeftyRighty; Jun 13, 2016 at 10:08 AM.
Tourer
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 335
Likes: 89
From: Reno, NV
I did what you did about 10 years ago. I kinda went about it backwards though. Bought an used Sporty first, then got a learners permit. A month or so later I did the 2 day motorcycle course in Rocklin, CA. If I were to do it over again, I would start with the riders course.
As far as gear goes, I would recommend figuring it out as you go. You live in Sacramento, so you really don't need a lot to get started and you probably already have some ski/snowboard gear laying around which works just fine for cooler/cold weather. Get a helmet (can't go wrong with modular), and the rest you can use what you already have. Otherwise, you'll probably end up spending a lot of money on a bunch of stuff then find out later it's not quite what you want/need or too much and don't use it.
You will probably want to get some gloves made for motorcycle riding. They usually have a gel pad in the palm area that helps reduce felt vibration (Sportsters can vibrate quite a bit). And they give you a good positive grip. I personally like finger-less in the summer time.
You don't need saddle bags. A detachable rack will do just fine to bungie stuff to (use the bungies with carabiners). A good rigid roll bag will go a long way too.
I don't recommend in buying a small metric bike to start out on unless you are apprehensive about riding a motorcycle. If you like the 883, then get it. I would buy it used though in case you want to sell and upgrade later. You won't take as much of a bath financially.
As far as gear goes, I would recommend figuring it out as you go. You live in Sacramento, so you really don't need a lot to get started and you probably already have some ski/snowboard gear laying around which works just fine for cooler/cold weather. Get a helmet (can't go wrong with modular), and the rest you can use what you already have. Otherwise, you'll probably end up spending a lot of money on a bunch of stuff then find out later it's not quite what you want/need or too much and don't use it.
You will probably want to get some gloves made for motorcycle riding. They usually have a gel pad in the palm area that helps reduce felt vibration (Sportsters can vibrate quite a bit). And they give you a good positive grip. I personally like finger-less in the summer time.
You don't need saddle bags. A detachable rack will do just fine to bungie stuff to (use the bungies with carabiners). A good rigid roll bag will go a long way too.
I don't recommend in buying a small metric bike to start out on unless you are apprehensive about riding a motorcycle. If you like the 883, then get it. I would buy it used though in case you want to sell and upgrade later. You won't take as much of a bath financially.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 5,280
Likes: 3,411
From: Idaho Panhandle
Helmet: Get one the fits you. Brand matters less than fit. Might be good to start with a flip up shield so that you are not distracted by bugs or rocks hitting your face.
Leather Gloves and boots: get ones that will stay on
As far as riding, I wrote this to a friend many years ago. Maybe it will help.
When in doubt, trust counter steering.
When stopping, make sure front wheel is straight.
When slow turning, turn your head all the way to look where you want to go.
Just remember that even if you can, you do not have to take the corners as aggressively as someone else. It comes down to making counter steering natural and trusting your own capabilities as well as those of the bike. You will learn to slow down enough to slowly accelerate through the curve and leave yourself enough leeway in both directions to dodge a rock on the inside of miss a cage over the line on the outside. Typically when a corner sign (for trucks) gives a speed, it is safe on a motorcycle at 15-20 over that speed. So a 40 mph curve is safe on two wheels at 55. A 25 mph curve at 40. I use the 15 mph rule but I have friends that use a 20 mph above the truck sign rule. I draw the line below 20 and 15 mph are 15 mph.
If you are still lack confidence in the corners it is probably related trying to steer instead of counter steering. There are many factors in good cornering skills, but the base line is an adjusted speed into the corner so that no slowing or braking will be required, a delayed apex so you can see around the curve as far as possible, and a steady or gentle acceleration through the corner using counter steering to keep the bike in an optimal position. You have done this but it has not become instinctive for you yet. It will. This class may be the tool that lets you retain what you have already learned when you do it right.
Don't worry about it. The more you have to think about it the more it slows your mind from doing it instinctively. Ride your own pace and there is no such thing as being too slow. But when you get it, you will naturally speed up a little bit and feel just as safe.
If you are still turning your bars, try pushing the inside of the corner grip forward instead. The bike leans more naturally and feels steadier. The best thing is you have the desire. A healthy fear will become a healthy respect for corners.
Leather Gloves and boots: get ones that will stay on
As far as riding, I wrote this to a friend many years ago. Maybe it will help.
When in doubt, trust counter steering.
When stopping, make sure front wheel is straight.
When slow turning, turn your head all the way to look where you want to go.
Just remember that even if you can, you do not have to take the corners as aggressively as someone else. It comes down to making counter steering natural and trusting your own capabilities as well as those of the bike. You will learn to slow down enough to slowly accelerate through the curve and leave yourself enough leeway in both directions to dodge a rock on the inside of miss a cage over the line on the outside. Typically when a corner sign (for trucks) gives a speed, it is safe on a motorcycle at 15-20 over that speed. So a 40 mph curve is safe on two wheels at 55. A 25 mph curve at 40. I use the 15 mph rule but I have friends that use a 20 mph above the truck sign rule. I draw the line below 20 and 15 mph are 15 mph.
If you are still lack confidence in the corners it is probably related trying to steer instead of counter steering. There are many factors in good cornering skills, but the base line is an adjusted speed into the corner so that no slowing or braking will be required, a delayed apex so you can see around the curve as far as possible, and a steady or gentle acceleration through the corner using counter steering to keep the bike in an optimal position. You have done this but it has not become instinctive for you yet. It will. This class may be the tool that lets you retain what you have already learned when you do it right.
Don't worry about it. The more you have to think about it the more it slows your mind from doing it instinctively. Ride your own pace and there is no such thing as being too slow. But when you get it, you will naturally speed up a little bit and feel just as safe.
If you are still turning your bars, try pushing the inside of the corner grip forward instead. The bike leans more naturally and feels steadier. The best thing is you have the desire. A healthy fear will become a healthy respect for corners.
Thread Starter
|
Stage IV
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento, CA
Get your class out of the way first, before you go bike shopping.
While it IS possible to start your riding career on a Sporty, you'll advance much faster by riding a smaller, more maneuverable bike during your most formidable years.
Because of your location, pay special attention to heat & exposure. Serious.
While it IS possible to start your riding career on a Sporty, you'll advance much faster by riding a smaller, more maneuverable bike during your most formidable years.
Because of your location, pay special attention to heat & exposure. Serious.
I don't think the bike would sit. I bought a fat tire pedal bike to roam my neighborhood on all because it looked cool and I thought I would enjoy it. I'm pretty clingy with my money and won't let it go if I don't honestly believe I wouldn't use whatever I'm buying.
It's not so much I'm sold to Harley. Any reputable bike will do. But the Harley community is strong and their products are solid - and the one of few bikes I like/want just so happens to be a Harley!
I too would advise going with used, and light for a first bike...250cc or so, and would suggest an on/off road bike - get off the highway and ride some dirt roads and trails. Trust me, you'll dump it, but A) its somewhat made for that, b) you'll learn a lot about managing traction on dirt- -front and rear, and C) you'll gain skills away from cars and pavement that can seriously hurt you. Then buy the Harley.
The classes are usually free...take multiple times - if you're like me, I learn a lot more the second time around. My class instructors were very good at picking out bad habits, and improved my skills.
I have a Sportster and a Road King- -and love the bags on the King - if I take the Sportster to work, I have to put my laptop in a backback...while on the Road King, I can throw it in a side bag, along with a gallon of milk and some groceries if necessary. Bags come in real handy. Sportster is a lot of fun when its just Me that needs to get somewhere.
Have Fun, be Safe.
The classes are usually free...take multiple times - if you're like me, I learn a lot more the second time around. My class instructors were very good at picking out bad habits, and improved my skills.
I have a Sportster and a Road King- -and love the bags on the King - if I take the Sportster to work, I have to put my laptop in a backback...while on the Road King, I can throw it in a side bag, along with a gallon of milk and some groceries if necessary. Bags come in real handy. Sportster is a lot of fun when its just Me that needs to get somewhere.
Have Fun, be Safe.
Let that not confuse with not knowing how to turn a wrench! I have had my fair share of older vehicles (My favorite was my 89 Bronco XLT)! I've worked on many vehicles in my garage but thankfully now I'm at a time where I can buy new, turn the key and just enjoy!!
Welcome, and youve started off correctly 1st, getting on this Forum, asking questions and reviewing old posts. Lots of great info here. Check in frequently, worth the time. 2nd, you are taking the New Rider Course learning the proper techniques and skills to safely ride.
Im a new rider too. Took the New Rider course this spring, and quickly figured out I needed lots of practice to get comfortable on a bike. I, too, wanted to get an 883 Iron to start, but decided on a Honda 250 Rebel to improve my riding skills. Ive got over 100 miles on the Honda now, almost all residential areas, lots of starts, stops, cornering, slow-speed maneuvers, and getting comfortable in traffic. I will get the 883, or maybe a Dyna, later this fall or next spring.
And Im a bit paranoid with riding gear, and went with quality first as I expect to get years of use/value from them. Shoei modular helmet, Bohn Armor pants/shirt, Draggin jeans/shirt. I am using an old pair of Red Wing engineer boots, no problems shifting, and will get good riding boots later. And I am using an old pair of deerskin gloves, comfortable in summer weather, will get better gloves later. The leather jacket, maybe chaps, will also come later this fall when the weather changes.
As far as bags on the bike, Ive always been a light packer, necessities only. I can get by with a small backpack for weekend trips, but may add a rack on the new bike just in case its needed. I plan on getting a small fork bag, for incidentals, and a swingarm bag for tools, raingear, etc. - I don't think I'll ever need the big bags.
Good luck on your new adventure, and ride safely.
Im a new rider too. Took the New Rider course this spring, and quickly figured out I needed lots of practice to get comfortable on a bike. I, too, wanted to get an 883 Iron to start, but decided on a Honda 250 Rebel to improve my riding skills. Ive got over 100 miles on the Honda now, almost all residential areas, lots of starts, stops, cornering, slow-speed maneuvers, and getting comfortable in traffic. I will get the 883, or maybe a Dyna, later this fall or next spring.
And Im a bit paranoid with riding gear, and went with quality first as I expect to get years of use/value from them. Shoei modular helmet, Bohn Armor pants/shirt, Draggin jeans/shirt. I am using an old pair of Red Wing engineer boots, no problems shifting, and will get good riding boots later. And I am using an old pair of deerskin gloves, comfortable in summer weather, will get better gloves later. The leather jacket, maybe chaps, will also come later this fall when the weather changes.
As far as bags on the bike, Ive always been a light packer, necessities only. I can get by with a small backpack for weekend trips, but may add a rack on the new bike just in case its needed. I plan on getting a small fork bag, for incidentals, and a swingarm bag for tools, raingear, etc. - I don't think I'll ever need the big bags.
Good luck on your new adventure, and ride safely.
Thanks for your feedback - I'll be doing the same as in riding around the neighborhoods and less traveled streets around me to gain experience and confidence!
I did what you did about 10 years ago. I kinda went about it backwards though. Bought an used Sporty first, then got a learners permit. A month or so later I did the 2 day motorcycle course in Rocklin, CA. If I were to do it over again, I would start with the riders course.
As far as gear goes, I would recommend figuring it out as you go. You live in Sacramento, so you really don't need a lot to get started and you probably already have some ski/snowboard gear laying around which works just fine for cooler/cold weather. Get a helmet (can't go wrong with modular), and the rest you can use what you already have. Otherwise, you'll probably end up spending a lot of money on a bunch of stuff then find out later it's not quite what you want/need or too much and don't use it.
You will probably want to get some gloves made for motorcycle riding. They usually have a gel pad in the palm area that helps reduce felt vibration (Sportsters can vibrate quite a bit). And they give you a good positive grip. I personally like finger-less in the summer time.
You don't need saddle bags. A detachable rack will do just fine to bungie stuff to (use the bungies with carabiners). A good rigid roll bag will go a long way too.
I don't recommend in buying a small metric bike to start out on unless you are apprehensive about riding a motorcycle. If you like the 883, then get it. I would buy it used though in case you want to sell and upgrade later. You won't take as much of a bath financially.
As far as gear goes, I would recommend figuring it out as you go. You live in Sacramento, so you really don't need a lot to get started and you probably already have some ski/snowboard gear laying around which works just fine for cooler/cold weather. Get a helmet (can't go wrong with modular), and the rest you can use what you already have. Otherwise, you'll probably end up spending a lot of money on a bunch of stuff then find out later it's not quite what you want/need or too much and don't use it.
You will probably want to get some gloves made for motorcycle riding. They usually have a gel pad in the palm area that helps reduce felt vibration (Sportsters can vibrate quite a bit). And they give you a good positive grip. I personally like finger-less in the summer time.
You don't need saddle bags. A detachable rack will do just fine to bungie stuff to (use the bungies with carabiners). A good rigid roll bag will go a long way too.
I don't recommend in buying a small metric bike to start out on unless you are apprehensive about riding a motorcycle. If you like the 883, then get it. I would buy it used though in case you want to sell and upgrade later. You won't take as much of a bath financially.
I do know how to pack light - after living in Colorado and doing many camping trips in the back woods! thanks for the advice on the rack. That looks like the cheapest option and can only grow from that starting point.
I'm 6'4, 170lbs. I think the 883 MAY be too small for me. But it looks awesome so it's worth checking out and test riding (after my learning courses) to make sure it's a good fit. But I do have a little list of bikes I'll be checking out. But I must say of the bikes I've seen - the green 883 looks like it's exactly what I'm going for.
Helmet: Get one the fits you. Brand matters less than fit. Might be good to start with a flip up shield so that you are not distracted by bugs or rocks hitting your face.
Leather Gloves and boots: get ones that will stay on
As far as riding, I wrote this to a friend many years ago. Maybe it will help.
When in doubt, trust counter steering.
When stopping, make sure front wheel is straight.
When slow turning, turn your head all the way to look where you want to go.
Just remember that even if you can, you do not have to take the corners as aggressively as someone else. It comes down to making counter steering natural and trusting your own capabilities as well as those of the bike. You will learn to slow down enough to slowly accelerate through the curve and leave yourself enough leeway in both directions to dodge a rock on the inside of miss a cage over the line on the outside. Typically when a corner sign (for trucks) gives a speed, it is safe on a motorcycle at 15-20 over that speed. So a 40 mph curve is safe on two wheels at 55. A 25 mph curve at 40. I use the 15 mph rule but I have friends that use a 20 mph above the truck sign rule. I draw the line below 20 and 15 mph are 15 mph.
If you are still lack confidence in the corners it is probably related trying to steer instead of counter steering. There are many factors in good cornering skills, but the base line is an adjusted speed into the corner so that no slowing or braking will be required, a delayed apex so you can see around the curve as far as possible, and a steady or gentle acceleration through the corner using counter steering to keep the bike in an optimal position. You have done this but it has not become instinctive for you yet. It will. This class may be the tool that lets you retain what you have already learned when you do it right.
Don't worry about it. The more you have to think about it the more it slows your mind from doing it instinctively. Ride your own pace and there is no such thing as being too slow. But when you get it, you will naturally speed up a little bit and feel just as safe.
If you are still turning your bars, try pushing the inside of the corner grip forward instead. The bike leans more naturally and feels steadier. The best thing is you have the desire. A healthy fear will become a healthy respect for corners.
Leather Gloves and boots: get ones that will stay on
As far as riding, I wrote this to a friend many years ago. Maybe it will help.
When in doubt, trust counter steering.
When stopping, make sure front wheel is straight.
When slow turning, turn your head all the way to look where you want to go.
Just remember that even if you can, you do not have to take the corners as aggressively as someone else. It comes down to making counter steering natural and trusting your own capabilities as well as those of the bike. You will learn to slow down enough to slowly accelerate through the curve and leave yourself enough leeway in both directions to dodge a rock on the inside of miss a cage over the line on the outside. Typically when a corner sign (for trucks) gives a speed, it is safe on a motorcycle at 15-20 over that speed. So a 40 mph curve is safe on two wheels at 55. A 25 mph curve at 40. I use the 15 mph rule but I have friends that use a 20 mph above the truck sign rule. I draw the line below 20 and 15 mph are 15 mph.
If you are still lack confidence in the corners it is probably related trying to steer instead of counter steering. There are many factors in good cornering skills, but the base line is an adjusted speed into the corner so that no slowing or braking will be required, a delayed apex so you can see around the curve as far as possible, and a steady or gentle acceleration through the corner using counter steering to keep the bike in an optimal position. You have done this but it has not become instinctive for you yet. It will. This class may be the tool that lets you retain what you have already learned when you do it right.
Don't worry about it. The more you have to think about it the more it slows your mind from doing it instinctively. Ride your own pace and there is no such thing as being too slow. But when you get it, you will naturally speed up a little bit and feel just as safe.
If you are still turning your bars, try pushing the inside of the corner grip forward instead. The bike leans more naturally and feels steadier. The best thing is you have the desire. A healthy fear will become a healthy respect for corners.
Not knowing about it until recently (and if I've ever done it) has me a bit intrigued. It's something I'll def. be looking into and not trying to over-do it as that could result in some nasty rolls LOL
Thanks everyone for the helpful advice!! This is going to make this new adventure much easier to enjoy having the tools and resources to make for some memorable and safe riding experiences (should I get my license to ride,haha!)
-Adamm
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 208
Likes: 17
From: Romeoville, IL
With apes. forward controls. and a quality seat you can be comfortable on it all day long. I'm 6'3, 230 and had no comfort or power problems with 883. However, if you plan on doing a lot of 2-up riding it can be a little cramped, but still doable.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 7,709
Likes: 7,850
From: New York
Hey guys & gals! I just wanted to take a quick moment to introduce myself! My name is Adamm and I'm from Sacramento, CA.
***
I plan on taking the HD new rider 3 day course as I have never ridden a motorcycle before. Best thing you can do for yourself!
However I do have a few questions!
What are good helmets to consider? I see there are types that cover just to top half of your head and others cover your whole head/face. What's the best option? I'm leaning more to a full face/head helmet with a tinted lens but I'd be open to the other style (sorry, don't know the terminology yet)
Hands down, a Full Face will give you the greatest protection. However, as a first helmet, I'd go with a Modular. They offer as much protection as a Full Face and are generally easier to put on and off and ease conversations without the need to remove the helmet. I do NOT subscribe to the "pay more, get more" philosophy. Sure, the more expensive helmets may have a few more bells & whistles [eg., removable/washable liner, interchangeable shields, better vents], but at the end of the day it's all about protection. If it's DOT and/or Snell rated, you should be good to go. Lastly, if you plan to ride at night, forget the tinted lenses. Either wear sunglasses under the helmet or find one with a drop-down sunshade [my choice].
What are the best type of leather jackets to go for in weather of both 90's/sunny & (when I move to Oregon in the next couple years - life goals) 50's and misty by the beach?
IMHO, I'd go textile over leather as a primary jacket. Leather certainly has it's place for abrasion resistance, but textiles can be equally good in that department and offer many other options; such as removable liners to compensate for early chill followed by afternoon warm-up, vents for airflow, straps or snaps to tighten/loosen, moderate water resistance, etc.
I have a pair of nice Redwing work/hike boots but would those be too thick to work the gear shifter? Or would a lighter duty boot be better? Stiffness a factor?
Your Redwings should be fine. Stiffness will become a factor if you're riding pegs instead of floorboards and your feet are pretty much in a fixed position for long lengths of time. However, I'd get some miles under your belt before you determine what features you prefer. One tip - watch out for any footwear with long laces. I'm unclear on the physics involved, but laces have an amazing propensity to tie themselves around any part of the bike they come in contact with. Maybe not so bad while moving, but certainly a bitch when you glide to a stop and can't figure out why you can't remove your feet from the pegs.
What type of gloves would be good to ride with? Or no gloves at all?
Definately get gloves. Also, get some form of padding in the palms [I like gel]. Since you have the luxury of mostly mild to warm weather, I'd start with fingerless gloves. They'll give you a better feel for the controls but also offer some abrasion resistance in the unfortunate possibility of a fall and slide. It also helps when you find yourself adding air to your tires and inadvertently touch the back of your hand on the brake rotor and smell burning material [which, BTW would smell like burning flesh if you were not wearing gloves].
Would saddle bags be better than a back rack? I don't plan to carry much. But I do love to fly my DJI Phantom 3 and I think a back rack would be better to haul that case around but I don't want to sell myself short and not get saddle bags if I'm not expecting to carry extra gear that I'm not thinking of.. maybe spare clothes in case it rains on a weekend back country trip??
Storage is a give and take. I find the more storage I have, the more storage I use. However, I'm not a fan of wearing a backpack in lieu of storing items on the bike. I'd start out with saddlebags.
Anywho - Thanks all for the help. I'm excited to start this new adventure in my life and hope it's easy to get into!
***
I plan on taking the HD new rider 3 day course as I have never ridden a motorcycle before. Best thing you can do for yourself!
However I do have a few questions!
What are good helmets to consider? I see there are types that cover just to top half of your head and others cover your whole head/face. What's the best option? I'm leaning more to a full face/head helmet with a tinted lens but I'd be open to the other style (sorry, don't know the terminology yet)
Hands down, a Full Face will give you the greatest protection. However, as a first helmet, I'd go with a Modular. They offer as much protection as a Full Face and are generally easier to put on and off and ease conversations without the need to remove the helmet. I do NOT subscribe to the "pay more, get more" philosophy. Sure, the more expensive helmets may have a few more bells & whistles [eg., removable/washable liner, interchangeable shields, better vents], but at the end of the day it's all about protection. If it's DOT and/or Snell rated, you should be good to go. Lastly, if you plan to ride at night, forget the tinted lenses. Either wear sunglasses under the helmet or find one with a drop-down sunshade [my choice].
What are the best type of leather jackets to go for in weather of both 90's/sunny & (when I move to Oregon in the next couple years - life goals) 50's and misty by the beach?
IMHO, I'd go textile over leather as a primary jacket. Leather certainly has it's place for abrasion resistance, but textiles can be equally good in that department and offer many other options; such as removable liners to compensate for early chill followed by afternoon warm-up, vents for airflow, straps or snaps to tighten/loosen, moderate water resistance, etc.
I have a pair of nice Redwing work/hike boots but would those be too thick to work the gear shifter? Or would a lighter duty boot be better? Stiffness a factor?
Your Redwings should be fine. Stiffness will become a factor if you're riding pegs instead of floorboards and your feet are pretty much in a fixed position for long lengths of time. However, I'd get some miles under your belt before you determine what features you prefer. One tip - watch out for any footwear with long laces. I'm unclear on the physics involved, but laces have an amazing propensity to tie themselves around any part of the bike they come in contact with. Maybe not so bad while moving, but certainly a bitch when you glide to a stop and can't figure out why you can't remove your feet from the pegs.
What type of gloves would be good to ride with? Or no gloves at all?
Definately get gloves. Also, get some form of padding in the palms [I like gel]. Since you have the luxury of mostly mild to warm weather, I'd start with fingerless gloves. They'll give you a better feel for the controls but also offer some abrasion resistance in the unfortunate possibility of a fall and slide. It also helps when you find yourself adding air to your tires and inadvertently touch the back of your hand on the brake rotor and smell burning material [which, BTW would smell like burning flesh if you were not wearing gloves].
Would saddle bags be better than a back rack? I don't plan to carry much. But I do love to fly my DJI Phantom 3 and I think a back rack would be better to haul that case around but I don't want to sell myself short and not get saddle bags if I'm not expecting to carry extra gear that I'm not thinking of.. maybe spare clothes in case it rains on a weekend back country trip??
Storage is a give and take. I find the more storage I have, the more storage I use. However, I'm not a fan of wearing a backpack in lieu of storing items on the bike. I'd start out with saddlebags.
Anywho - Thanks all for the help. I'm excited to start this new adventure in my life and hope it's easy to get into!
Answers in red above. The general answer to ALL your questions, whether regarding a bike, clothing, helmet or gloves, is FIT, FIT, FIT. Nothing will frustrate you faster than a bike which causes cramps or back pain, clothing that restricts your movement or a helmet that blocks your vision or gives you a headache. And BTW, regarding clothing, I've NEVER seen such a wide disparity in sizing. Just because you may normally wear "medium", doesn't mean that will be the size in a particular product. My suggestion is heed the advice in the "user reviews" - more often than not they will mention "x runs really small or large".