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I guess the real point here is at least bring it to max torque. In this case, we're talking inch pounds here, not a big deal. You want them tight. If you choose to go to the middle, go ahead, No harm no foul. I've been to this argument before, and its not a hill to die on, people. As long as you, have a system to tighten them all up. I would question, why a manufacturer, would leave a gap of a couple ft lbs, on a 1/4" bolt, but just get them tight. I always used to say, just before they break, but now with tightening up into aluminum, be careful you don't strip the threads out, makes a bigger job repairing threads.
When I do valve bodies, I always use the two stage method, as it has worked for me for years, and was taught that in Mercedes trans school. as well as advanced Auto shop classes. in the end, both methods work. Good luck on your projects, Mine always come out ok.
Just for the record, I don't hold any animosity here. This is just a discussion, we agree on pretty much everything else.
I agree on using the step method on anything with more than one bolt. But I would go 30 ft lbs then final of 60 ft lbs. I would'nt go 50 ft lbs then 60 ft lbs.
[QUOTE=sixguns;16119759]When it comes to Harley-Davidson, they provide a range of min and max. and as part of the maintenance program you check a fasteners torque with the torque wrench set to the Minimum range. They also use torque in stages but they clearly call out those as initial and final. No need to look any further than your service manual.[/QUOTE
Just for the record, I don't hold any animosity here. This is just a discussion, we agree on pretty much everything else.
I agree on using the step method on anything with more than one bolt. But I would go 30 ft lbs then final of 60 ft lbs. I would'nt go 50 ft lbs then 60 ft lbs.
The Service Manual spells out first torque, second torque and final tourque for cylinder heads and still gives a range. Best advice on torquing is get the manual and follow the instructions.
The Service Manual spells out first torque, second torque and final tourque for cylinder heads and still gives a range. Best advice on torquing is get the manual and follow the instructions.
My example was on general bolt torque, not an application Like a cyl head that has a specific sequence spelled out.
How is this bad information? The worst thing that can happen, is that you wind up torquing the fastener to spec. Let me ask this, what does the factory set the torque at for a fastener? (Not a headbolt, )Do they set it in the middle of that spec? The high end of the spec? Wouldn't you want to tighten it as much as the factory does?How do you know what that is?
Nobody I know does a two stage torque on any bolt, (again, not headbolts, ect. For that matter, I know few that would even think about using a torque wrench on this one that we are discussing!) But at least, use the high end spec, to tighten, and not just pick somewhere in the middle. What other spec, gives you such leeway?
How is this bad information? The worst thing that can happen, is that you wind up torquing the fastener to spec. Let me ask this, what does the factory set the torque at for a fastener? (Not a headbolt, )Do they set it in the middle of that spec? The high end of the spec? Wouldn't you want to tighten it as much as the factory does?How do you know what that is?
Nobody I know does a two stage torque on any bolt, (again, not headbolts, ect. For that matter, I know few that would even think about using a torque wrench on this one that we are discussing!) But at least, use the high end spec, to tighten, and not just pick somewhere in the middle. What other spec, gives you such leeway?
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