When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Use a saber saw w/tape on the base, secure plex, hold saw to keep from bouncing. Take fall down piece of plex to practice on, sand edges from medium to fine taking sharp edges off, you are done when edge is smooth and a even frosted color . Use a propane torch and pass over the edge w/flame slowing down each time ( this will show you how warm the edge needs to get with out damage ). You are done when edges turn clear they will have a slight radius and will be less likely to crack from stress. You can also use a heat gun, I mostly use a torch cause its faster. Have fun doing it.
If this is your first time cutting a windhield and you're not really good with a cutting wheel on a grinder you will destroy the windshield. Personally I use a saber saw with a fine metal cutting blade.
First I lay on a double layer of Duct Tape across the surface that the saw will run on then I mark out a cut line that matches the existing curve of the windshield only lower. I make my cut then clean up the edge with a sanding block and when I have it right I remove the tape and dress up the outer edges with an emory board. The saber saw is a lot easier to control then a cutting wheel.
Not to be an ******* (though I suppose I am), I'm guessing if he could leave the shield attached to the bike, this whole conversation would be moot.
To the OP, can the brackets be moved up eliminating the need to cut the shield?
I wouldn't d say *******. Smart-*** maybe. Especially the smart part because he did mention the headlight opening was not big enough.
If you go slow there'll by to much heat and it'll melt. The melting plexi will stick to itself behind the cutter.
Move slow but keep the cutter spinning fast
Just another vote, from experience, with a jigsaw and masking tape. I layered the tape out so it was wide enough to ensure the saw base would always be on the tape and not the windshield. Mark your cut line on the tape. Keep the saw base tight to the surface and slowly trace your cut line. I hand sanded the final cut with 100 them 500, then 2000 grit paper. Probably over kill, but I was able to put a nice rolled edge on the cut, much like the original shield.
Use a fine blade lots of tape and clean up the edges with fine sand paper like 320 or 400 grit. Or take it to a local glass shop might cost a few dollars but you know your not gonna butcher up your windshield
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.