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Old May 17, 2020 | 01:48 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Tommy C
You wouldn't bring your own eggs into a restaurant for them to cook. This follows along the same lines.
I have to agree ... I quit installing customer parts years ago ... Way too many hassles with quality, longevity and fitment issues
 
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Old May 17, 2020 | 01:53 PM
  #32  
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The real issue with installing tires not sold by the dealer is the warranty. The tire manufacturer probably won't back a tire unless mounted by their vendor.
 
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Old May 17, 2020 | 01:59 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Uncle Larry
Very nice set-up ... I like the truing stand :>
Larry, that looks like a Balancer only
 
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Old May 17, 2020 | 01:59 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by nevil
When I worked in a bike shop in the 70's we didn't have a machine. I just used a good set of tire irons.
Still do now and then. mess around a lot trying different tire options on sidecars.
Sounds like real world coming around to bite indy's in the but also.
 

Last edited by smitty901; May 17, 2020 at 02:00 PM.
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Old May 17, 2020 | 02:04 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by multihdrdr
Larry, that looks like a Balancer only
All you need is a dial gauge to make it a truing stand. It works quite well.
 
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Old May 17, 2020 | 02:24 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by major105bc
All you need is a dial gauge to make it a truing stand. It works quite well.
Maybe, but Truing Stands are made differently. They have another "Arbor", "Spindle"?






.
 

Last edited by multihdrdr; May 17, 2020 at 02:31 PM.
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Old May 17, 2020 | 02:30 PM
  #37  
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I have the No Mar Classic with the pedestal mount and the hitch receiver mount so I can go mobile if needed. However, I came across a great deal on this Ideal changer and jumped on it. I mostly use Dyna beads and Ride-On to balance tires, but I also have the No Mar balancer that I've used with a $25 Amazon dial gauge to true re-laced wheels.

I change a lot of tires and three things will never change no matter what system or machine you use.
1. Tubes are a pain in the a$$.
2. Dunlops suck. Very hard sidewall.
3. You'll always break a sweat.

Do it yourself tire equipment-aijzfhk.jpg
 
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Old May 17, 2020 | 02:43 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Uncle Larry
Very nice set-up ... I like the truing stand :>
Originally Posted by multihdrdr
Larry, that looks like a Balancer only
Originally Posted by major105bc
All you need is a dial gauge to make it a truing stand. It works quite well.
Originally Posted by multihdrdr
Maybe, but Truing Stands are made differently. They have another "Arbor", "Spindle"?






.
Well ... I didn't want to "split hairs" .... I have a magnetic base for my dial indicator and it's very handy ... It's all good guys :>)
 
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Old May 17, 2020 | 02:44 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by major105bc
I have the No Mar Classic with the pedestal mount and the hitch receiver mount so I can go mobile if needed. However, I came across a great deal on this Ideal changer and jumped on it. I mostly use Dyna beads and Ride-On to balance tires, but I also have the No Mar balancer that I've used with a $25 Amazon dial gauge to true re-laced wheels.

I change a lot of tires and three things will never change no matter what system or machine you use.
1. Tubes are a pain in the a$$.
2. Dunlops suck. Very hard sidewall.
3. You'll always break a sweat.

I like that ... I've mulled over looking for air changer. I've used them plenty for auto applications and used same machine for some Motorcycle stuff (they weren't my machine though)

No removing either pulley or rotor is nice

 

Last edited by multihdrdr; May 17, 2020 at 02:48 PM.
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Old May 17, 2020 | 02:45 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by multihdrdr
Maybe, but Truing Stands are made differently. They have another "Arbor", "Spindle"?
Not sure. The Field Service Manual shows a similar stand with a reference piece that will show you up/down and side-to-side wobble. The cheap gauge I use sticks magnetically to the base of the stand and can adjust and actually measure the wobble. The FSM tells you the limit. In my experience, as you approach the limit, you'll reach a point I call "good enough". It's the point at which any adjustment made after that only makes it worse. If you've ever trued a wheel, you'll know what I'm talking about.
 
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