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The real issue with installing tires not sold by the dealer is the warranty. The tire manufacturer probably won't back a tire unless mounted by their vendor.
When I worked in a bike shop in the 70's we didn't have a machine. I just used a good set of tire irons.
Still do now and then. mess around a lot trying different tire options on sidecars.
Sounds like real world coming around to bite indy's in the but also.
Last edited by smitty901; May 17, 2020 at 02:00 PM.
I have the No Mar Classic with the pedestal mount and the hitch receiver mount so I can go mobile if needed. However, I came across a great deal on this Ideal changer and jumped on it. I mostly use Dyna beads and Ride-On to balance tires, but I also have the No Mar balancer that I've used with a $25 Amazon dial gauge to true re-laced wheels.
I change a lot of tires and three things will never change no matter what system or machine you use.
1. Tubes are a pain in the a$$.
2. Dunlops suck. Very hard sidewall.
3. You'll always break a sweat.
I have the No Mar Classic with the pedestal mount and the hitch receiver mount so I can go mobile if needed. However, I came across a great deal on this Ideal changer and jumped on it. I mostly use Dyna beads and Ride-On to balance tires, but I also have the No Mar balancer that I've used with a $25 Amazon dial gauge to true re-laced wheels.
I change a lot of tires and three things will never change no matter what system or machine you use.
1. Tubes are a pain in the a$$.
2. Dunlops suck. Very hard sidewall.
3. You'll always break a sweat.
I like that ... I've mulled over looking for air changer. I've used them plenty for auto applications and used same machine for some Motorcycle stuff (they weren't my machine though)
No removing either pulley or rotor is nice
Last edited by multihdrdr; May 17, 2020 at 02:48 PM.
Maybe, but Truing Stands are made differently. They have another "Arbor", "Spindle"?
Not sure. The Field Service Manual shows a similar stand with a reference piece that will show you up/down and side-to-side wobble. The cheap gauge I use sticks magnetically to the base of the stand and can adjust and actually measure the wobble. The FSM tells you the limit. In my experience, as you approach the limit, you'll reach a point I call "good enough". It's the point at which any adjustment made after that only makes it worse. If you've ever trued a wheel, you'll know what I'm talking about.
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