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M8 break in rpm - first 50 miles

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Old Apr 23, 2022 | 07:38 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by aftershock00@msn.com
so did you not read my post that you replied to?
Never mentioned a thing advocating lugging so don’t know why that’s a point…
As far as wot…do you not realize that “operating temp” is synonymous with “fully warmed up” ?????

so again, when fully warmed up at normal operating temperatures, there is nothing preventing wot during break in in the manual.

it is clearly implied since they specifically say you can’t go wot prior to it warming up.
Yes I did read your post.

You said there is nothing in the manual about heavily loading the engine which lugging is just that. So what did I miss? Never said you advocated anything.

You also said there was no mention of throttle position in the manual related to break in. I pointed out the WOT statement but also lugging requires 3/4 to full throttle when in too high a gear (or from low rpm).
 
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Old Apr 23, 2022 | 09:43 PM
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I just changed the oil at 6k after doing the 1k first change to synthetic, so 5k on this oil. The oil was the cleanest I’ve ever seen on any bike I’ve owned after 5k miles. It was not black at all. More of a dark honey color - like you’d expect to see after just 1k miles. I’m guessing I have a great ring seal and no blow by. So here’s what I did on break in. 2 miles on the bike when I test rode it at the dealer on a 20 mile route with rpms up to 3k and modest acceleration. On the 80 mile ride home, I accelerated hard at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle from 2500 to 3500 rpm ONCE EVERY MILE, and then decelerated. I did the hard acceleration/deceleration in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears. By the time I got home, I had done the acceleration/deceleration cycle 80 times.
2021 Road Glide 107 running AmsOil.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2022 | 10:02 PM
  #23  
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I've bought 3 new M8's, 2018 Heritage 114, 2019 Street Glide Special, 2020 Street Glide Special.

I broke all 3 in hard not worrying about RPM's. I did not run constant speeds until I had 1,000 miles on each but, did not baby them either.

Had no issues with any of them after putting many 1,000's of miles on each.

YMMV
 
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Old Apr 25, 2022 | 06:12 AM
  #24  
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I haven’t read all the posts in this thread…. Have the “ride it like you’re going to ride it” idiots showed up yet?
 
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Old Apr 25, 2022 | 06:19 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Midknight77
Yes I did read your post.

You said there is nothing in the manual about heavily loading the engine which lugging is just that. So what did I miss? Never said you advocated anything.

You also said there was no mention of throttle position in the manual related to break in. I pointed out the WOT statement but also lugging requires 3/4 to full throttle when in too high a gear (or from low rpm).

if you’re in 5th or 6th gear cruising at 3k rpms and you crack the throttle wide open, that is considered lugging?? Either way, I was talking about high loads within the normal designed range.

The way I always looked at it, there is high load…similar to what happens when racing, and there is overload… where the engine is clearly struggling/shaking, etc.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2022 | 06:31 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by AussieDog
Its your bike, do what you want. You saw the guidance on here, not really any different than what MOCO had to say. One thing about America..in buying a new HD you bought and paid for hundreds of hours of engineering expertise specific to that bike and motor. Want to ignore it? GO FOR IT!
The issue isn’t that I don’t trust the engineers, the issue is that the engineers didn’t write the final version of the manual. Lawyers did, and I have enough experience with corporate lawyers that they can certainly manage to throttle things with their words. So is this was the engineers want? Or is this procedure what the engineers were willing to agree to after the lawyers got involved.

below is an excerpt from my wife’s manual of her car, she drives a hemi…
……………Drive moderately during the first 300 mi (500 km). After the initial 60 mi (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable.

While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in. However, wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided.
…………………

now although it doesn’t say to drag race out of the dealership and tap the rev limit at each shift, it does actually recommend full throttle!!!
it is concepts like this that make me believe there is a value to running it on the hard side, but not stupid or abusive.

so if that’s what mopar is willing to state on a mass produced vehicle, just imagine whatd they’d really like to have you do, but can’t say.

 
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Old Apr 26, 2022 | 03:52 PM
  #27  
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No one has a rebuttal to the mopar break in recommendation ?
 
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Old Apr 26, 2022 | 06:00 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by aftershock00@msn.com
No one has a rebuttal to the mopar break in recommendation ?

Not from me, because that's the procedure I've used on any new bike or car for the last 40 years
 
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Old Apr 26, 2022 | 07:51 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by CaffeineBuzz
when it goes on the dyno, no need for that....you can always upgrade and let the dyno break it in for you
Which is exactly what I just did. 😀👍🏻
 
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Old Apr 26, 2022 | 09:01 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by aftershock00@msn.com
No one has a rebuttal to the mopar break in recommendation ?
Certainly not me. After driving for over 50 years I've never owned a mopar product, so I am not qualified. But I do have a question. Is that the mopar owned by Chrysler Corp when they were US based, or is it the mopar owned by Mercedes Benz, or is it the mopar now owned by Fiat? Just askin'. Don't take it the wrong way, the Italians make great pizza!
 
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