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Old Oct 8, 2025 | 08:57 PM
  #31  
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Recommendations. if you are having a small parasitic draw over the max for your bike and you can not put a finger on it, Do as I and many others here do and plug into a battery tender as soon as you park the bike. You just replaced a bad battery. Keep it good by keeping it topped off with a tender. A small parasitic draw could be caused from many electrical applications.

Fix the front brake light switch. As others here, I use my front brakes more than my rear brakes. 70% of your stopping capability is the front brakes. You want your brake light to illuminate when you pull that bake lever. Having to remember to tap your read brakes can slip your mind.



 
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Old Oct 9, 2025 | 11:43 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Down South
Just suggestions, A security system can pull a battery down within a week or so by itself. I had to go back through the whole thread to come up with something. If you pulled all of the fuses and the only one that made a difference was the battery fuse,


Unplug the main fuse and do an amp draw from the fuse holder. That will kill power to the EMC. That will kill power to everything.
If you have a good reading from the main fuse holder, reinstall the main fuse and disconnect the ECM and see what the reading is. Although the EMC should be powered from one of the fuses under the seat.
Leave the key fob out of range of the bike.
I just did the above suggestion. Results were basically the same as initial. Same reading when testing between battery post and cable, at main fuse holder, when removing ecm fuse and when disconnecting ecm. The only thing changing the “drain” value was removing the “battery “ fuse. Then reading drops to .1 mA.

updated info: when initially testing I only held the multimeter in place “10-15 seconds “ and got the 100+ mA reading for total drain value. After more reading I retested holding multimeter in touch for “30 seconds “. Then at about 20 seconds the value dropped to 68.2mA. better but still above the 50mA suggested many places as upper limit of acceptable. When disconnecting speedometer (which is in battery circuit) drops to 38.2 mA. Since everything seems to be functioning okay I’m going to ride and monitor. May have to tender although I do ride it regularly. Thanks for input
 
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Old Oct 9, 2025 | 12:31 PM
  #33  
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If it dropped when you disconnect the Speedo - the speedometer may be where the memory chip is to hold all the data it stores. Just a thought.

I know it was on a Honda CBR I used to have.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2025 | 12:55 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by MarlinSpike
If it dropped when you disconnect the Speedo - the speedometer may be where the memory chip is to hold all the data it stores. Just a thought.

I know it was on a Honda CBR I used to have.
I was thinking along the same lines because there are so many wires in the speedometer connector
 
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Old Oct 9, 2025 | 03:12 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Robertbc3141
How many states have inspections for motorcycles?
Is this the norm?
There is nothing in Michigan, never has been.
They tried it with automobiles 30 or 40 years ago and it was a disaster they stopped it.
(But yeah I wouldn't ride without both my brakes activating the stoplight, just like wearing a helmet or pants - I don't need the government to tell me that).
Googled it - 15 states don't, 35 do.
We do in Pennsylvania. Every year.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2025 | 06:01 PM
  #36  
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It's not unusual for a H-D OEM battery (nor any other brand) to have short life span.
I keep ALL of my batteries on "tenders" during the winter months or whenever they may not be in use for a week or more.

I removed the battery from my '18 Tri-Glide and put it in my '13 CVO for what would be it's THIRD SEASON.
That bike was started TWICE in one week and on the THIRD ATTEMPT it would only "click"!

I usually replace the battery(s) in my "road bikes) after two full seasons of riding and use them in my generator but the one currently in my Tri-Glide has been in it for THREE SEASONS and it WILL be replaced next spring.

Make sure your battery cables are CLEAN (check the ground to frame connection) and tight and IF you have a battery charger (not a tender) give the battery a good overnight 2AMP charge and then from there but my first guess is that that you have weak battery.

I've owned and rode many H-D's since late '74 and I've only had ONE bad voltage regulator and ONE stator that that had to be replaced.

Also, I agree that you should repair your front brake switch.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2025 | 06:58 PM
  #37  
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I've never used a tender, I've heard some bad things about them and some good things what else I don't really need the good things I stay away from them.
I never really put my motorcycle into storage. Even in January and February there's a day or two I can take it out for a ride. So 30 days or so is the longest it usually goes without starting.
My boss puts his into winter storage in a storage facility even with the battery tender and jacked off the ground.
That would suck when there's a nice 45 or 50° day in January or February and you can't easily access your motorcycle.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2025 | 10:30 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Robertbc3141
I've never used a tender, I've heard some bad things about them and some good things what else I don't really need the good things I stay away from them.
I never really put my motorcycle into storage. Even in January and February there's a day or two I can take it out for a ride. So 30 days or so is the longest it usually goes without starting.
My boss puts his into winter storage in a storage facility even with the battery tender and jacked off the ground.
That would suck when there's a nice 45 or 50° day in January or February and you can't easily access your motorcycle.
I don’t know what bad things about tenders but I ditto on the rest of your post. My bike is doing good now with the new battery.
I did dig out my tender but think I left the pig tail on an ultra when I traded it cause didn’t have opportunity to remove, so ordered another one to put on the Softail. I have also ordered a new front switch which I will endeavor to install.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2025 | 12:12 PM
  #39  
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WHAT YEAR AND MODEL?
Some sportsters had brake light switches that could easily be screwed up.
Again-WHAT YEAR AND MODEL??????????????????
 
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Old Oct 12, 2025 | 12:46 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by davekp
WHAT YEAR AND MODEL?
Some sportsters had brake light switches that could easily be screwed up.
Again-WHAT YEAR AND MODEL??????????????????

In post #6 the OP stated that his bike is a 2010 Softail custom
 
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