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Thread drift, sorry. I read somewhere that original JIS is being discontinued in favor of a newer spec.. I don't remember the difference though.
I use original JIS driver bits for most everything that you would use a Phillips. Rarely does the Phillips driver grab a Phillips screw better than the JIS driver.
Back on topic... Dispatch it sure looks like the holes go through. So get some primary oil on there and take the bike to a shop to remove the damaged screws like you mentioned. I think that's the best option for you. If they will let you watch, it would be a great thing to learn, just in case??
Oh Boy, tool show and tell! I've had this K-Mart impact driver maybe 40+ years. It's saved my butt quite a few times. Yes kids, at one time K-Mart had a good automotive section, now they have......no section! My pic:
The screws were not Phillips head, they were JIS. Although the two look similar, a Phillips screwdriver doesn't quite fit a JIS screw properly. A JIS screw has a single dimple on the head to identify it.
There were no appropriate driver tools that were readily available back then. As soon as the screws were removed, we took them to a fastener wholesaler and bought the same size in metric Allen screws, which were not available in hardware stores. Big box/ home improvement stores did not exist in my area at that time. IIRC, Sears had some metric tools.
I spent a career getting ****ed fasteners out, and still help the techs I manage today.
Plenty of good advice, here. If it were me, from the 10,000 ft level viewing this:
I would have already whipped out a 1/4" die grinder, bid that stupid cover farewell, and cut a smooth line across the center of any offending fastener (destroying the cover)
One whack with a hand impact driver (shown multiple times above) with a thick straight bit, and they are free.
I have multiple bits for my Snap On impact driver, you do need to make sure it has the tightest fit in that slot you just cut.
Those are likely not tight enough for the welder, but that is the final solution. Weld a nut to them, they come right out.
Much easier and faster just drill it out (need replacement bolt anyway).
seems to me the hardness of a steel screw and the softer aluminum around the screw could allow the bit to drift into aluminum, that would complicate things a bit.
seems to me the hardness of a steel screw and the softer aluminum around the screw could allow the bit to drift into aluminum, that would complicate things a bit.
In the OP's case, he just needs to drill the heads off, at least so far. Then pull the cover off of the remaining bolt and remove bolt. The head of bolt will keep the drill centered pretty much.
There has been alot of great advice here on how to remove them. Thank you all for that!!!!!!
The downside is that he appears to not have a drill and drill bits. This leads me to believe he does not have enough experience with one (no offense) to not wreck the cover or worse. As mentioned, at least this time, he should seek help. And, if possible, watch and learn how to do it. Not all of us have been doing our own work on bikes forever. Some are still learning the basics.
Go buy yourself a good T-30 bit and a Impact Driver. Take the T-30 bit and using a small hammer tap it into the stripped T-27 screws to get it started in each of the screws, then place the bit onto the Impact driver and get the bit started and hit the driver with your hammer while twisting the driver. This will pop them loose and then you can just replace them once you finish. Been doing this for years when people have screwed them up.
Go buy yourself a good T-30 bit and a Impact Driver. Take the T-30 bit and using a small hammer tap it into the stripped T-27 screws to get it started in each of the screws, then place the bit onto the Impact driver and get the bit started and hit the driver with your hammer while twisting the driver. This will pop them loose and then you can just replace them once you finish. Been doing this for years when people have screwed them up.
Spot on Steve. I don't think people can appreciate how well those hand impact drivers work until they use one. I got introduced to impact drivers by my dad when I was a kid and have owned one my entire adult life. I use a shot filled dead blow on them most of the time for screws and small bolts like that.
On edit: OP you asked earlier in the thread about replacement bolts. I use 12 point bolts in most of the stuff I replace. The Allen head bolts tend to rust in the Allen pocket anymore, (I don't think the chrome is as great as it used to be). I personally think the 12 points look better than most other stuff too. You can get them in stainless, chrome, even titanium. They are a little more money, but you won't replace them again.
Last edited by Gas Smasher; Nov 11, 2025 at 05:47 PM.
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