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barametric pressure is critical and can easily be manipulated to give higher or lower results. for example, an operater enters 28 in. of pressure and actually testsnear sea level...the result will correct to a higher and false number. an honest dyno operator uses a barometer to enter the actual pressure and the dyno adjusts the result....at least that's my understanding of it
Just put a 2007 TC96 with HD heavy breather and HD SE fatshotz pipes No fuel added and 51,000 on the engine.
71.81 Max HP
82.66 max torque
Only time fuel was past 14.0:1 was below 2100 rpms
It ranged from 14.0:1 to 13.0:1
Copy of sheet if anyone wants to see it
Well after I put my Genuine Harley-Davidson Street performance Touring Mufflers on my horsepower jumped up to 147@ 4500 and the torque increased to a phenomenal 249 @ 3000 rpm.......Sounds pretty cool too!..
Either way, remember There are several thing to look for in getting Ur dyno No's.
STD or SAE. it will usually say at the top right corner fo Ur sheet.
STD will make 3-5% better numbers , thats why some dyno's produce higher #'s than others.
The standard is SAE anymore. ( at least I've read that) Some still do STD's
Then some tuners do 4th gear, some do 5th on a six speed.. 4th gear runs will net U lower Numbers as a 5th gear run, even with the same bike.
Sitting on bike or inflating the rear tire a little will make a difference, as also will a barely warm motor vs a completely warmed up motor...
Also different ways to setup the machine itself to get enhanced numbers.
That why some tuners always end up with higher numbers than others.. they do and use all the things they can to get those numbers up...
There don''t seem to be that many REALLY great tuners around...usually 6-8hr for a really great tune which is more than most want to pay for one, Unless U just spent $4 or $5k on Ur motor and want to wring out every last HP and # of TQ out of her.
A 3-4 hr tune will net the average bike a good tune.
But the numbers are just numbers in the end... A dyno tune here VS one across the country is not really an "Apple to Apple" comparison all the time..
Last edited by oct1949; Aug 13, 2010 at 11:48 AM.
Reason: added
Well after I put my Genuine Harley-Davidson Street performance Touring Mufflers on my horsepower jumped up to 147@ 4500 and the torque increased to a phenomenal 249 @ 3000 rpm.......Sounds pretty cool too!..
I know this is an older post, but I thought I would post the results of my test. I have a 2010 roadglide stock two into one exhaust. We dynod the bike bone stock and came up with 63.3 hp and 80.32 torque at the rear wheel. We also checked the A/F ratio in these measurements. We then did a S&S header pipe, SPO slip ons and ram air intake and tuned the bike and re dynod it. The numbers rose to 72.0 hp and 82. torque. We then added 585 S&S cams and retuned the bike. Hp was 87 and torque was 89.6. We then added 106 kit and retuned the bike and the rear wheel hp was 99.2 and torque was 107.3. We then added the S&S reworked heads and retuned and dynod the bike. The final hp was 106.2 and torque was 108.1. All of these numbers are rear wheel. S&S also played with other factors to show the difference in dyno results... put on a lighter wheel... added 2 hp. put air in rear tire to 60 psi... added 2 hp. They were trying to show that it is important to standardize the dyno test and that if people want to play with the numbers to get braging rights, it is easy to do. It is too expensive to do all the tests like we did but I wanted to try structure more of a scientific test where we keep all of the conditions identical (as much as we could). There are video's out there on youtube that show each of the steps that we went through and a complete "how to" for each of the steps. If interested, email me and I will send the links.
Since we already dug up this old thread...I just had my new bike on the Dyno a couple of days ago.
Results:
2010 FLTRX.
This was in Las Vegas, NV, elevation ~2,000 ft above sea level. Stock: All stock, with a Screamin Eagle Nightstick slip-on Run Conditions: 89.35 F, 28.3 in-Hg, Humidity: 7%
Max Power = 60.08 Max Torque = 74.70
Mods: V&H 2-1 Pro Pipe, SE A/C, PCV Run Conditions: 100.8 F, 28.13 in-Hg, Humidity: 5%
Max Power = 72.35 Max Torque = 84.26
Addition...this was SAE.
Last edited by Jack Straw; May 15, 2011 at 10:44 AM.
So what can you expect to see in a stock 96 engine at the rear wheel? Is it close to the numbers I quoted:
78 ft-lbs torque and 63 Hp @ 3500 RPM?
Didn't see that this was a resurrected thread until after the post. Must be a carry over from the recent Easter season....
My 2010 Street Glide stock 96 inch engine produced 68 hp and 84 tq when they dynoed it prior to doing the stage II 103 work. The bike did have a 2-1 exhaust on it from the factory that year. Bike now makes 92 hp and 106 tq thanks to the stage II kit and D&D exhaust (plus a couple of other trinkets).
Last edited by Inspector 12; May 15, 2011 at 10:32 AM.
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