auxillary lights
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auxillary lights
I like to ride with my passing lamps on at night whenever I can. However, I find myself getting a flash of high beams from on coming traffic, as if I had left my brights on. Kinda pisses me off because I want to see and be seen. I see other bikes with their auxillary lights on as well and wonder if they get the same treatment, but I don't give them a flash if I'm in my car. So do you use your passing lamps at night around town? do you get a flash?
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2006
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RE: auxillary lights
I have auxillarty HID lamps on my bike. They are aimed low and towards the the shoulder so I know they are blinding anyone. They are bright and having more than two lights shining most people "assume " the brights are on hit their high beams. As long as your lights are aimed properly.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: NC
RE: auxillary lights
Yes I get brights also. Our low beams with aux lights turned on is much brighter and the cages think we have our brights on because they are so bright. Just live with it and accept this is life. You cant change what is. I am going to continue riding with them on and they are legal to have on. One thing to check though make sure yours is pointing correctly because some times they are pointed up from what I have seen too far on some bikes. You might get more brights than others if yours is in that condition.
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RE: auxillary lights
I can't say they are pointed any higher than the main beam. ya know, sometimes I want to flash my high beam right back, just to let them know I don't have my high beams on.
I talk like this happens way too much, but it happens just only so often.
I talk like this happens way too much, but it happens just only so often.
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2007
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RE: auxillary lights
I use to have people flash their bright lights at me until I adjusted my light. It was set too high from the dealer when I bought it. After I adjusted it properly people quit flashing their lights at me and I can see the road a lot better.
Road Master
Joined: May 2007
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RE: auxillary lights
I used to get it more than I do now. I ignore them, unless they leave their brights on, then I put my brights on and their usually go off pretty fast, cause my brights are pretty damned bright.
Sometimes I'd think they were flashing me and they weren't, they would be going up out of a dip or over a bump and you get a direct beam that is bright, but that's not their fault.
If you have a passenger on board, or extra weight your light appears brighter to them also, so I can see them thinking you have your brights on when you have weight on, but I do know that some of them think that with 3 lamps lit they think they've got the brights, till two go off and the bright one comes on[sm=badbadbad.gif] If they act stupid they better have welding goggles, cause I ain't gonna be cool if they aren't[sm=shades.gif].
Sometimes I'd think they were flashing me and they weren't, they would be going up out of a dip or over a bump and you get a direct beam that is bright, but that's not their fault.
If you have a passenger on board, or extra weight your light appears brighter to them also, so I can see them thinking you have your brights on when you have weight on, but I do know that some of them think that with 3 lamps lit they think they've got the brights, till two go off and the bright one comes on[sm=badbadbad.gif] If they act stupid they better have welding goggles, cause I ain't gonna be cool if they aren't[sm=shades.gif].
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,642
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From: Forest Lake, Mn
RE: auxillary lights
Try to give you a qwik check here, please bear with.
Find a flat and level surface, driveway is good. Park bike 25' from headlight to grudge door. Now mesasure from the ground to the CENTER of the headlight. Go to grudge door/wall. Measure the same distance up, put a piece of electrical tape (black on white door, etc) on the door/wall at that height. Now mesure down 2", and put another strip of tape on door/wall. Make sure they are horizontal and level (use carpenters level if you want) Make sure bike is at right angle (straight) wiith door/wall. Sit on the bike (or have someone else at least as heavy as you) Turn on your headlights, low beam. Your low beam should be just to the BOTTOM of the BOTTOM line, and just ever soslightly to the RIGHT of centerline. Adjust as necessary. Now, turn on your spots. Aim the left spot, just ever so slightly to the left of the low beam contact patch on door. Aim right spot just even or below the right side of the low beam patch. Personally, I aim my right one, even with, but more to the right, than the low beam, as I want it to shine in the ditch to facilitate seeing deerski's up here. Also, I rewire mine, so the spots stay on when ever I have the switch turned on, no matter high or low beam. I fear deer. Also, I run 60 watt spots and 110/100 headlight. That is a lot of light and power. I run my lights thru indivdual relays for the high beam, for the low beam and for the spots. On hi with spots, that's 230 watts of light. Yes, if I forget, I get lots of "flashes", but itcomes down to an occassional "flash" ordon't see the deer. I will take my chances with the "flash", Thank you.
Find a flat and level surface, driveway is good. Park bike 25' from headlight to grudge door. Now mesasure from the ground to the CENTER of the headlight. Go to grudge door/wall. Measure the same distance up, put a piece of electrical tape (black on white door, etc) on the door/wall at that height. Now mesure down 2", and put another strip of tape on door/wall. Make sure they are horizontal and level (use carpenters level if you want) Make sure bike is at right angle (straight) wiith door/wall. Sit on the bike (or have someone else at least as heavy as you) Turn on your headlights, low beam. Your low beam should be just to the BOTTOM of the BOTTOM line, and just ever soslightly to the RIGHT of centerline. Adjust as necessary. Now, turn on your spots. Aim the left spot, just ever so slightly to the left of the low beam contact patch on door. Aim right spot just even or below the right side of the low beam patch. Personally, I aim my right one, even with, but more to the right, than the low beam, as I want it to shine in the ditch to facilitate seeing deerski's up here. Also, I rewire mine, so the spots stay on when ever I have the switch turned on, no matter high or low beam. I fear deer. Also, I run 60 watt spots and 110/100 headlight. That is a lot of light and power. I run my lights thru indivdual relays for the high beam, for the low beam and for the spots. On hi with spots, that's 230 watts of light. Yes, if I forget, I get lots of "flashes", but itcomes down to an occassional "flash" ordon't see the deer. I will take my chances with the "flash", Thank you.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,748
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From: NC
RE: auxillary lights
ORIGINAL: skydvr
I can't say they are pointed any higher than the main beam. ya know, sometimes I want to flash my high beam right back, just to let them know I don't have my high beams on.
I talk like this happens way too much, but it happens just only so often.
I can't say they are pointed any higher than the main beam. ya know, sometimes I want to flash my high beam right back, just to let them know I don't have my high beams on.
I talk like this happens way too much, but it happens just only so often.
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 552
Likes: 50
From:
RE: auxillary lights
I second what Da Gumpmeister said. That procedure is given in the H-D service manual, and I think you'll find that most new Harleys with passing lights do not have them adjusted properly. Mine weren't even close, nor was the headlight. Note that adjusting them isn't a trivial matter, since you'll need a special socket so that you can loosen the nut that holds the passing lights in position. You can either buy the special Snap-On socket (believe it's called a flare nut socket) for about $42 or do what I did, and use a Dremel tool on a regular deep socket to achieve the same end. You have to remove the turn signals from under the passing lights to access this nut.
But it is worth the trouble, since after they're properly aimed you will be putting all your light in the right places, and will not be "flashed" by oncoming traffic (at least, rarely.)
But it is worth the trouble, since after they're properly aimed you will be putting all your light in the right places, and will not be "flashed" by oncoming traffic (at least, rarely.)