Engine Braking
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,513
Likes: 4
From: Midland, TX
With the old transmissions it was necessary to downshift at speed but with HD's you really don't need to. But it's an old habit that is hard to brake.
Also consider if you are slowing using only the engine, your rear brake light isn't illuminated increasing your risk of getting rear ended. Even when I downshift, I still lightly pump the brakes just to have my brake light illuminate.
Also consider if you are slowing using only the engine, your rear brake light isn't illuminated increasing your risk of getting rear ended. Even when I downshift, I still lightly pump the brakes just to have my brake light illuminate.
Road Captain
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 644
Likes: 1
I was told... That if you match the engine speed during down shifting it does not wear out the clutch. In other words, pull in the clutch, throttle up the engine slightly to match the expected engine speed with the clutch out, release the clutch, and let off the gas. You are now using the engine to slow down without wearing out the clutch. The clutch does not wear because it is moving at the same RPM when pressed against the flywheel. I was told that is how racers do it to keep from using up a clutch during a long 12 or 24 hour race. It sounded logical but I'm no tech, so it could be Bull S@%t passed on as fact. (I get a lot of that hanging around my friends!)
Jay
Jay
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 771
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton, Alberta
I always use my engine to slow me down whenever possible. I use the same theory as when I was running trucks. Use the engine to slow you down to avoid wear and brake fade so that when you need to brakes for a panic stop, they are there.
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 748
Likes: 1
There is nothing wrong with downshifting and using the compression of your engine to help slow you down. In fact, after driving tractor trailers for years, it's highly recommended to prevent glazing the brake pads and losing ALL your stopping power!
Since the clutch is not slipping while engine braking so you aren't wearing the clutch that way... I don't understand these posts about wearing out the clutch. As long as you downshift your bike like you would a car or truck (both engine and brakes) you won't cause any damage to your baby.
Since the clutch is not slipping while engine braking so you aren't wearing the clutch that way... I don't understand these posts about wearing out the clutch. As long as you downshift your bike like you would a car or truck (both engine and brakes) you won't cause any damage to your baby.
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
From: Granby, CT
It's my understanding that just dropping it a gear and dumping the clutch will have some adverse affects on the clutch itself, since it's effectively locking up immediately. The thing is, most of us who downshift when they're slowing down roll the throttle quickly to match the engine speed with the trans (or get reasonably close) so that you can smoothly release the clutch and the bike continues to slow down without any jerking around. Just my 2 cents.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 285
From: Edmond Oklahoma
I've been engine braking all my cars for years and I haven't replaced wornout clutches or trannys on them, and those are dry clutches. But I'm open minded, how many folks here have had to replace their clutch and how many miles did you have on the bike when you did it?
Personally I think as you gain experience, you develop the balance of when to use engine braking and when to use the brake.
Beary
Personally I think as you gain experience, you develop the balance of when to use engine braking and when to use the brake.
Beary
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 886
Likes: 3
From: NC Mountains
drive belts
The drive belt on a Harley will not stretch...it may break but it won't stretch. They are positive drive(toothed) belts with tensile members (Kevlar/carbon) designed to NOT stretch.
The reason the instructor singled out Harley's is because he said there's something (you'll have to excuse my lack of technical terms...I'm a little bit mechanically challenged) that pushes against the belt to keep it tight and engine braking puts too much pressure on the belt and may eventually cause it to stretch so much that it starts to slip...or worse.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,642
Likes: 6
From: Forest Lake, Mn
With one drum brake on the back, you dammed well better believe that panhead motor is doing one helluva lot of braking. I have used the brake too much at times, it gets toasty, and fades like a buddy when it is time to kick start the scoot. Not a good scenario with one brake.
The dry clutch pack, and the primary belt, are over 6 yrs old, and it has been my only scoot since we sold the bagger, 6 yrs ago.
Not sure where this clutch thing started, but I heard it around here, too. If your clutch is engaged, it is engaged. The only slipping takes place if you are feathering it to stay in the friction zone, starting out from dead stop, or riding around with your hand on the lever and pulling it slightly.
I'll buy into the brake light thing. But the belt stretching? No how, no way, not today.
The dry clutch pack, and the primary belt, are over 6 yrs old, and it has been my only scoot since we sold the bagger, 6 yrs ago.
Not sure where this clutch thing started, but I heard it around here, too. If your clutch is engaged, it is engaged. The only slipping takes place if you are feathering it to stay in the friction zone, starting out from dead stop, or riding around with your hand on the lever and pulling it slightly.
I'll buy into the brake light thing. But the belt stretching? No how, no way, not today.