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What do you have installed on your bike? any engine modifications? I see that you changed the exhaust...did you change the air-intake?? If you are still running the stock air-intake then you are probably start pointing in the right direction for a solution. Your pipes are allowing for a fast air outflow and your air intake is not providing the right inflow.
Also a SERT or Power Commander can help with a dyno tune
Did you install new exhaust crush gaskets with your new pipes? If not that could be your issue. Also, did you follow the torque procedure specified in the service manual for tightening the exhaust manifold clamps to the cylinder heads?
The dealer installed the pipes...so I would assume they did all the right things in regard to tuning and gaskets. The condition usually appears when close to needing service. Last night I changed my own oil and rode it again but it was still there. Maybe the plugs...didn't check those yet. Will also check the bolts on the head. As far as the dyno and SERT...I need to learn more about that. Does the manual explain tuning etc...
What do you have installed on your bike? any engine modifications? I see that you changed the exhaust...did you change the air-intake?? If you are still running the stock air-intake then you are probably start pointing in the right direction for a solution. Your pipes are allowing for a fast air outflow and your air intake is not providing the right inflow.
Also a SERT or Power Commander can help with a dyno tune
The only thing I changed were the pipes because the pipes that were on when I bought the bike were wrong. The dealer installed the BUB's and they didn't suggest anything. Perhaps because I'm a woman, they don't bother explaining that I might need some mods rather I will keep bringing the bike in so they can make $$$. I hope that's not the case... I'm learning a lot through this new "take care of my own bike" venture. I just don't want to make mistakes and cost more in the process. I really appreciate all the help from you guys.
If your bike is running too rich, there's really no danger to your engine, just the annoyance of backfiring and maybe fouling plugs. But if you are significantly lean you could burn the valves on the engine. So, pull your plugs and give them a look. If they are grayish tan and powdery, then you are lean, if they are running more to the dark black then you are rich. If you are a little rich and the bike is running OK, I don't think I'd worry with it.
If your bike is running too rich, there's really no danger to your engine, just the annoyance of backfiring and maybe fouling plugs. But if you are significantly lean you could burn the valves on the engine. So, pull your plugs and give them a look. If they are grayish tan and powdery, then you are lean, if they are running more to the dark black then you are rich. If you are a little rich and the bike is running OK, I don't think I'd worry with it.
I pulled the back plug and looked at it. The tip of it was very light in color...almost a dirty white. According to the manual, it looks right.
Also, pulled the air cleaner and it looked pretty dark. However, I don't know the original color. The rime of the filter toward the bike had some oil (or lube of some kind) on it. Is this normal, or is there some other kind of problem??
Last edited by onemotochica; Nov 7, 2008 at 11:10 AM.
You mentioned that the bike always stops backfiring after the dealer works on it. Your last post mentions what sounds like a dirty/oily air filter. This could be the cause. It could make your bike run lean causing the backfire. I would change the air filter first. If the bike stops the backfire then you have solved that problem. Oil on the filter could be another problem altogether. Overfilling the oil tank could be a cause. I'll leave other causes for the oil blowby to more experienced mechanics.
Can you tell if it's a washable filter or if it is a paper one. If it's washable, then wash and re-oil it. If it's a paper one, get a washable one and some filter oil and slap it in or get a new paper filter. If you get an oiled one, just lightly spray the filter with filter oil.
I think your bike is tuned just fine so don't sweat that part.
Im pretty sure you have a standard paper air filter, get a new one if its oily, there cheap and will make your bike run better nomatter what.
change plugs and gap them to specs, they could be starting to carbon track or slightly extending their gap from stock, these are also cheap (dont buy through dealer, go to NAPA or a tractor supply store like Fleet Farm or something), plugs shouldnt cost more then $2 each.
if your air filter is oily now that means you have a sticky PCV valve, get a new one or youll end up changing you air filter every season. I think a dealer or online is the only place to find a new PCV, but this also shouldnt cost much more then $5.
and lastly check to be sure your exhaust bolts are tight to the heads, but dont over-torque them on purpose, a rounded off bolt in the head can be a bitch to get out.
good luck.
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That is some great stuff guys. Could a soiled (dirty/oil) filter cause the engine to idle slightly slower...as if struggling to breath. I'm thinkin we might have it here...i'll let you know how it all goes.
You mentioned that the bike always stops backfiring after the dealer works on it. Your last post mentions what sounds like a dirty/oily air filter. This could be the cause. It could make your bike run lean causing the backfire. I would change the air filter first. If the bike stops the backfire then you have solved that problem. Oil on the filter could be another problem altogether. Overfilling the oil tank could be a cause. I'll leave other causes for the oil blowby to more experienced mechanics.
I filled 3 1/2 qts then rode. Checked out good for the hot check. Then this morning, it checked out good for the cold check...so I' hope that part is ok.
PS...why is the dip stick the same general color of new oil...makes it hard to see the level. I have to hold it to the light just right.
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