Electrical HELL
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 330
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From: Humble, Texas
Electrical HELL
I installed a re-pop 32 Ford Tailight from Duolamp onto my '05 Softie. I don't have the turn signals anymore and this is my second aftermarket brake light system. The lights I removed had three wires, as you all know, this one has 2.
I ran one wire to the brake, one to the running light, but my third wire, the black one, I assumed was ground. I taped it off and ran the bike with only the other two to the tailight and it would run fine...for 100 feet. Like a switch was flipped, everything would shut off and I couldn't re-start the bike for atleast 30 seconds. Reasoning that the black wire must then be ground, I wired it directly to the frame. The bike ran great and I rode for over 20 miles on it without an issue. That was Saturday.
I went out this a.m. to start it and it was DEAD. No lights, no fuel pump, NOTHING. I removed the battery and charged it to no avail. Battery is good. I even removed my Sporty's battery and tried it, my bike is dead. Anyone have any insight?
I ran one wire to the brake, one to the running light, but my third wire, the black one, I assumed was ground. I taped it off and ran the bike with only the other two to the tailight and it would run fine...for 100 feet. Like a switch was flipped, everything would shut off and I couldn't re-start the bike for atleast 30 seconds. Reasoning that the black wire must then be ground, I wired it directly to the frame. The bike ran great and I rode for over 20 miles on it without an issue. That was Saturday.
I went out this a.m. to start it and it was DEAD. No lights, no fuel pump, NOTHING. I removed the battery and charged it to no avail. Battery is good. I even removed my Sporty's battery and tried it, my bike is dead. Anyone have any insight?
Assuming your '05 Softail has the same tail light wiring as shown in my '08 Softail service manual, the wiring is as follows:
Blue - lamp tip
Black - lamp shell (tied to ground through main harness)
Red/Yellow stripe - brake light *
* Wired directly to rear brake switch. Other side of switch wires to front brake switch, left directional, horn and acc.
It seems obvious that it's a power problem. It started when you grounded the black wire... but the black wire is ALREADY at ground potential, so that leaves a short somewhere. I think the divide & conquer approach is called for - disconnect all 3 wires and verify that your 15A lights fuse and the 40A main fuse are ok. If yes, does bike start now? If yes, then start adding wires to the light, one by one. If no, then it's time to get a wiring diagram and multimeter - you'll need to start isolating circuits by unplugging connectors and taking voltage or continuity readings. It's a PITA, but not difficult.
GL!
EDIT: I just noticed that the brake and tail lights are fused separately. If you are trying to connect both hot-leads to a common single-filament bulb, I don't think it will work (OEM bulb is dual-filament).
Blue - lamp tip
Black - lamp shell (tied to ground through main harness)
Red/Yellow stripe - brake light *
* Wired directly to rear brake switch. Other side of switch wires to front brake switch, left directional, horn and acc.
It seems obvious that it's a power problem. It started when you grounded the black wire... but the black wire is ALREADY at ground potential, so that leaves a short somewhere. I think the divide & conquer approach is called for - disconnect all 3 wires and verify that your 15A lights fuse and the 40A main fuse are ok. If yes, does bike start now? If yes, then start adding wires to the light, one by one. If no, then it's time to get a wiring diagram and multimeter - you'll need to start isolating circuits by unplugging connectors and taking voltage or continuity readings. It's a PITA, but not difficult.
GL!
EDIT: I just noticed that the brake and tail lights are fused separately. If you are trying to connect both hot-leads to a common single-filament bulb, I don't think it will work (OEM bulb is dual-filament).
Last edited by Mr. Lucky; Dec 29, 2008 at 11:07 PM. Reason: added info
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 14,865
Likes: 4
From: Mn.on a lake,well nxt to a lake.
You might of fried a relay.....if it shut down and re-started after 30 sec that was a relay poping and resetting(cooling down)..
Check your ingnition relay or maybe its a micro relay......
Check your ingnition relay or maybe its a micro relay......
Last edited by ranger56528; Dec 29, 2008 at 11:37 PM. Reason: opps
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Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 330
Likes: 109
From: Humble, Texas
Thanks...I am guessing the relay is fried and will start checking the 40a fuses tomorrow. All 15a are ok. Thanks for the help. As for the black wire, I found out I can wire it directly to the back of the light , which would then be grounded. I will also check the bulbs to be sure they are 12v and not 6v...or is it amp? anyways, I will install the new bulbs, but I hope the relay is the only problem and not a fried ECM.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 14,865
Likes: 4
From: Mn.on a lake,well nxt to a lake.
if the relay reset and welded itself open you could of fried the ECM but I would look at the relay as being bad 1st......my ingnition relay on my 80 FLT did that to me once,replaced it and all was fine....I did have to replace the modual on my 01 FLHTC but that was in 01....same thing....