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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 01:36 PM
  #31  
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When I picked up my powder coated sliders i noticed he powdered right over the drain screws. So from now on I will have to remove the wheel and the rod bolt and drain it that way. Oh well.
I didn't use the SE, i used the oil labled soft tail. I probably should have used SE, oh well.
I also used the wet number 12.5oz not the dry. I still wonder if that was correct.
I used a measuring cup, nothing special and poured it in.

I hope I put enough in!
 
Old Jan 8, 2009 | 01:52 PM
  #32  
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http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...l_level_gauge/ I don't have drains so I'm sucking it out with this. It's alot easier than pulling the axle.
 
Old Jan 8, 2009 | 02:11 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by paul s
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...l_level_gauge/ I don't have drains so I'm sucking it out with this. It's alot easier than pulling the axle.

That is a great price too. I have seen those from other names that were a ridiculous price. Thanks
 
Old Jan 8, 2009 | 04:23 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by sportncruise
When I picked up my powder coated sliders i noticed he powdered right over the drain screws. So from now on I will have to remove the wheel and the rod bolt and drain it that way. Oh well.
I didn't use the SE, i used the oil labled soft tail. I probably should have used SE, oh well.
I also used the wet number 12.5oz not the dry. I still wonder if that was correct.
I used a measuring cup, nothing special and poured it in.

I hope I put enough in!
Use an exacto knife to cust on the backside of the copper crush washer contcting the fork leg. Use a hand impact driver to remove drain screw and powder surface will not be harmed. Have done it several times. The new bagger lower legs do not have the drain screws machined in them.
 
Old Jan 8, 2009 | 07:24 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by hpfatboy
Yes change it out, use the SE HEAVY FORK OIL. Put a container under fork drain plug, and mark how much oil comes out on the container. Just add the same amount as you took out is the easiest method.

Originally Posted by Gutman
Don't do this. Follow the recommended replacement levels for wet or dry in the manual. The oil also lubricates the bushings and sliders. A very light oil film is maintained on the fork tube and some fluid loss is normal over time. If you replace the same level drained all the time you will be constantly lowering the oil level. Stick to the manual.
i do a combination of the two. do one fork at a time. after draining the oil in the first fork, see how much came out, if it is spec, add that much back in. if it is low, add spec amount back.

on the second fork, compare that amount that came out. it should be equal to the amount in the first fork. if not, add the spec amount so that there is equal amounts in the 2 fork tubes.

as far as the oil 'being filthy'. its not. its a different oil. some have speculated that it is a fish based oil. i would wager that if you drained the oil on a brand new bike that it would look the same, or very similar. that is of course excepting those that have the 'milky' water appearance. and for those that have that, i would say that if water can get in, then that means that oil can get out. check for leakage.

once you determine what weight oil you want to use (stock or 10 weight, se heavy also known as 20 weight, or a specialized mixture of the 2) then there is really no reason to change it annually, unless you just want to. i would go with the manuals recommendations, or when you notice a decrease in performance, whichever comes first.
 
Old Jan 8, 2009 | 08:49 PM
  #36  
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Went and got the se heavy oil today and took off the bars in preparation to change the oil. Loosened the draing plug (thank god for the plug) and realized I don't have a socket or wrench big enough to get the fork caps off. D'oh! Put it all back together and changed the tranny while I was out there. Off to get a 1 3/8" socket in the morning so I can git'r done.
 
Old Jan 8, 2009 | 09:31 PM
  #37  
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Change the seals also when you do it. They're cheap and they do wear out. If you try to skimp by not changing the seals you may have to re-do the entire job again over $12 seals.
 
Old Jan 8, 2009 | 09:40 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Arizona
Change the seals also when you do it. They're cheap and they do wear out. If you try to skimp by not changing the seals you may have to re-do the entire job again over $12 seals.
Seems like I should wait and do the lowering kit too if I am going to change the seals. I can't decide if it is necessary. I have spent too much lately on the bike, and it is all I thinka bout buying stuff for.

A good friend who has always encouraged me to buy things told me today he thought I was spending too much. That just might be the last straw for a while...
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 10:13 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by sportncruise
When I picked up my powder coated sliders i noticed he powdered right over the drain screws. So from now on I will have to remove the wheel and the rod bolt and drain it that way. Oh well.
I didn't use the SE, i used the oil labled soft tail. I probably should have used SE, oh well.
I also used the wet number 12.5oz not the dry. I still wonder if that was correct.
I used a measuring cup, nothing special and poured it in.

I hope I put enough in!
Dry is only for when you have replaced seals. It takes into account the amount of oil that new "dry" seal will absorb from the volume in your fork. If you put new seals on after the powercoating you may want to add a bit of oil. The wet value is for when you do the normal oil change in the forks.
 
Old Jan 8, 2009 | 10:35 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by anubisss
Seems like I should wait and do the lowering kit too if I am going to change the seals. I can't decide if it is necessary. I have spent too much lately on the bike, and it is all I thinka bout buying stuff for.

A good friend who has always encouraged me to buy things told me today he thought I was spending too much. That just might be the last straw for a while...
if you're just changing the oil, then you don't have to do the whole disassembly thing, with seals etc. do a search for iclicks post on changing fork oil. i don't have a batwing, so it was a little quicker for me, but i did the whole oil change in about 45 minutes....
 



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