How do you install them on the BR 2-2? Is it tough? So I will get 2x the sound and keep power? Any new mapping necessary if I have a Stage 1?

 

The baffles were easy to install, remove the heat shields, drill a hole in the pipe to hold the new baffles, slide the heat shields back on. The hardest thing was to get the old baffles out. As far as remapping, no, the pipes were installed by the dealer and they remapped it then. Go for it, you'll be surprised!

 

they have a nice sound without the baffles...

 

Don't run TQ's with baffles. Too much restriction. Get rid of the TQ"S and get some Thundermonster baffles. You'll get a smile on your face everyday when you get on it, seriously.
Been there done that. I hated the TQ"s. Made the exhaust sound "tinny".

How's your's sound? Do they have that nice deep low down rumble, or that high end "tinny" sound? Do your self a favor and dump the TQ's.
You'll thank me later.

 

Whcih of those baffles on their site will work for a Rocker (C)?

 

Thunder Monster baffles are a way to flush $80+ down the toilet. Go to your local hardware store and get:

A couple 1/4" thumbscrews or, 1" flat washers and 1/4" eye bolts. Drill a hole, mount, and stick $78 in your gas fund.

Google for "lollipop drag pipes". They only thing they've done is weld them into pipe sleeves and tried to pass them off as a unique product. Guys have been doing this for decades.

 

Okay. That sounds like a great tip- I'm less than mechanically declined, so what is the difference between removing the baffles and doing the lollipops? Also, does this lollipop technique work with the VH 2-2?

 

Completely removing the baffles slows down the velocity of the exhaust gases exiting the engine, does nothing to disrupt reversion waves, and eliminates back-pressure. "Drag pipes" only really perform well WOT at a particular RPM range (depending on how they're tuned). They create big flat spots or dips in the torque curve, usually at low to mid RPMs where you ride daily.

The lollipop trick (which is what Thunder Monster baffles are) introduces a small amount of backpressure and attempts to moderate the torque losses in low to mid RPMs. They will never perform as well as a well designed muffler/baffle for street riding, but they minimize power losses to "acceptable" levels without removing the drag pipe sound that some people like (myself included).

You don't have to be mechanically inclined to do this. All you have to do is drill a hole.

For the easiest "no welding" mod, do the following...

Buy a set of 3/4" x 1/4" eye bolts. Get a couple 1" or 1.25" flat washers. Get a couple small bolts/nuts to sandwich the washers on the outside of the eye bolt.

Now you should have something that approximates a round flat lollipop.

O
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drill a 1/4" hole in your head pipes just before they connect to the mufflers, or if you have straight pipes, drill the hole 5" or so in from the end of the pipe.

Thread a nut onto the eyebolt about halfway and stick the whole thing inside the pipes and through the 1/4" hole you drilled. Adjust the nut placement so the lollipop is centered in the pipe. Put another nut on the eye bolt on the outside of the pipes to secure it. Done.

You can "tune" this by angling the lollipop in relation to the pipe. Perpendicular to the pipe (90 degrees) is most common, but others run them at 45 degrees or somewhere in between.

Do that on the pipes for both cylinders, and you've now built your own Thunder Monster baffles.

I'm sure there are articles all over the web on this. As I mentioned, it's a very old trick for "tuning" drag pipes for street driving.

 

Thanks, bobernet!

 

I have a BBS,I run with stock baffles, big city baffles,she sounds the best with out baffles,and I don't fill any difference in performance at all.
I used to have those pipes on my warrior,and I run them with out baffles for near 25k miles and I love every mile of at.......