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Old May 31, 2006 | 08:28 PM
  #11  
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Beavis
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Default RE: $1,800 Later

I feel your pain to a certain degree. I had one of my tensioners go out at 22,000 miles, it had worn all the way through. Took it in and it was covered under the extended warranty that I had purchased with the bike. I returned home from a 3,400 mile trip a week ago and when I changed oil I cut the oil filter apart only to find: a whole bunch of little orange specks! (pieces of the tensioner) I contacted my dealer to see if they would cover this since I had this problem before and also questioned WHY they only replaced one of them the first time. No luck. Now I'm having a friend ( one hell of a wrench ) replace them both for me. Like cosmo said, this is definitely the weak link with the twin cam.
 
Old May 31, 2006 | 09:08 PM
  #12  
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Default RE: $1,800 Later

I just put new cams in my '02.I only had 9000 miles on it and the tensioners looked great.However, since I took my cam plate to a dealer to have them swap the cams, he recommend I go ahead and change the tensioners.The total cost for the cam/tensioner swap was about 110.00.(I already had the cams and installation kit)A lot less than the cost of a huffed engine.You would think they could come up with a better design.Check out the cams on the new dyna.It has a hydraulic tensioner on it.I found this out when looking at the SE catalog at cams.The '06 dyna cams were a little more.
 
Old May 31, 2006 | 10:09 PM
  #13  
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Default RE: $1,800 Later

ORIGINAL: Beavis

I feel your pain to a certain degree. I had one of my tensioners go out at 22,000 miles, it had worn all the way through. Took it in and it was covered under the extended warranty that I had purchased with the bike.

This is a good reason to buy the X-warranty.
 
Old May 31, 2006 | 10:18 PM
  #14  
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Default RE: $1,800 Later

I feel for you. In this day and age, how is a bike with 27,000 miles considered high mileage? Go figure.
 
Old May 31, 2006 | 10:25 PM
  #15  
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Default RE: $1,800 Later


ORIGINAL: DGlide04

I feel for you. In this day and age, how is a bike with 27,000 miles considered high mileage? Go figure.

Exactly what I was thinking . . . My waranty (probably same as anyone's) says unlimited miles for first two years. I could easily put 15 to 20K on this year.


I'm definitley going to buy the extended waranty, for just such and emergency; and for the piece of mind.
 
Old May 31, 2006 | 11:10 PM
  #16  
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Default RE: $1,800 Later


ORIGINAL: Wally


ORIGINAL: QT Hush

So why don't they install cam drive gears at the factory? You would think that knowing plastic tensioners will wear out soon, they would have incorporated gears into the engine design by now.
Cost and time.
Actually, it has nothing to do with cost or time, but is a noise issue. The gear driven cams are noisy and that makes it hard to meet the 80dB limit, so the MoCo went to the chain to decrease the engine noise. Gotta love the EPA!
 
Old Jun 1, 2006 | 12:22 AM
  #17  
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Default RE: $1,800 Later

I totally agree. I had the stator, cam tensioner, voltage regulator, and starter jack shaft seal replaced. Even if a person doesn't have a lot of repairs covered under warranty, that secure feeling is worth a lot. Now that mine has expired, do I trade it in on a new one or keep the old thing. If the 07's have a 6-speed tranny, consider it traded !



ORIGINAL: 1FLTRI4ME

ORIGINAL: Beavis

I feel your pain to a certain degree. I had one of my tensioners go out at 22,000 miles, it had worn all the way through. Took it in and it was covered under the extended warranty that I had purchased with the bike.

This is a good reason to buy the X-warranty.
 
Old Jun 1, 2006 | 12:50 AM
  #18  
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06dynablack
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Default RE: $1,800 Later

feel this way if i gotta spend extra for extendeded warranty because of fear of the 88 incher should have stuck with the evo.had over 100k on evo no probs .got 8500 on twinky now best hold up fore another 90k plus otherwise it will go dwn the rd
 
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 01:41 AM
  #19  
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Thorns
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From: Maryland
Default RE: $1,800 Later

Note: follow your H-D shop manual. To inspect the cam tensioners, remove the front exhaust header and pipe, remove allen head bolts and the cam chest cover, cut 2 - 3" coat hanger rods, take a 3/4" combination wrench and a big screw driver through the box end to retract the outer cam tensioner, then stick rod through the holes to retain it away from chain. Take flat blade screw driver and retract inner cam tensioner and retain it with stick rod to retain it away from chain. Examine the tensioners with a dental mirror and flashlight, and check wear specs for replacement. If replacement isn't needed, retract tensioners, and slowly let tensioners back in place against the chains, while removing stick rods. Use new gasket on cam chest cover, clean allen bolt holes of oil with q-tips or compressed air, and install and torque allen bolts to specs, install new exhaust gasket, and install pipe and header. Run engine and check oil, and for leaks. Takes all of an hour, and isn't hard. If you need new tensioners, you must follow your shop manual, but still it is an easy job. Get the oil pump alignment pins. or use the engine spin method to center oil pump. Gents this is pretty easy stuff. If you have a dealer do it, question the price, or hours of labor, it shouldn't be excessive.

Thorns
 
Old Jun 1, 2006 | 03:30 AM
  #20  
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Default RE: $1,800 Later

dam sorry to hear, I hope you put the gear driven cams back in
 
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