Harley oil
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Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 32
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From: West Virginia
Harley oil
I'm probably gonna have my Fatboy done tomorrow, and I got a general question about breaking in and oil. I put screamin eagle heads, high comp pistons .010 o/s, Andrews cam, and some other things. I've run synthetic in the bike since I got it last year, but we're gonna switch to conventional for break in, change it at 100, 500, and 1000miles. When do yall think I can go back to synthetic, and how many miles should I put on b4 I take to Tilleys to have dyno'd?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,856
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From: Middle of Kansas
My son put a new S&S 113 in his build bike, and it came with Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50. I guess if it was mine I would just go with it from the get go. Having said that, I think either would be fine.
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Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: West Virginia
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 123
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From: florida
buffdds is right.
the break in with conventional oil is the way to go (IMO). that way, you'll be able to smooth or knock down the flash on the new metal parts and help the rings, etc to seat. changing at such intervals is up to you; generally, i dump the oil at 500miles and again at 1k (I have changed the filter at 100miles).
then go back to synthetic which decreases metal to metal contact - or, at least diminishes the effects of that contact.
if everything is going ok at 1k, go ahead and dyno it. but 500 miles should be ok to dyno. no matter what, if the bike isn't put together right, the dyno will let you know, no matter when you run it.
roll on
-L
the break in with conventional oil is the way to go (IMO). that way, you'll be able to smooth or knock down the flash on the new metal parts and help the rings, etc to seat. changing at such intervals is up to you; generally, i dump the oil at 500miles and again at 1k (I have changed the filter at 100miles).
then go back to synthetic which decreases metal to metal contact - or, at least diminishes the effects of that contact.
if everything is going ok at 1k, go ahead and dyno it. but 500 miles should be ok to dyno. no matter what, if the bike isn't put together right, the dyno will let you know, no matter when you run it.
roll on
-L
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Do what you said, petroleum oil for 100 and 500. Then dump SYNTHETIC in at 1000, should be perfect timing as RINGS will be SEATED!!! Then have bike dynoed. Thats what i did, and bike runs like a CHAMP!!! YOUR MECHANIC SHOULD BE ADVISING YOU ON ALL THESE ISSUES!!! 
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Joe Kucinski
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From: 40 miles Northeast of Indy..
+1 and 2 on above. If U going to dump it at 100 and 500 might as well save the extra $$$ anyway... Ur not going to reap the benefits of the syn oil anyway.
My son had his new NT broke in on the dyno when it was new. I wasn't there but they control its heat cycles and tuned with SEST, stg1, pipes and cams before he brought her home...with the dyno oil in it... at 1k he went with syn...
My son had his new NT broke in on the dyno when it was new. I wasn't there but they control its heat cycles and tuned with SEST, stg1, pipes and cams before he brought her home...with the dyno oil in it... at 1k he went with syn...
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 738
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From: Toronto
My indy mechanic, who is one of the best bike mechanics i have ever known told me to go with straight oil for 500 miles, change it and go another 500 before going back to synthetic.
I have a feeling he knows a hell of alot more about breaking in motors than most....i think he's done it more than any non-mechanic here.....
Do what you said you were going to do....don't waste your money on synthetic and get the benefit regular oil will give you during break in......also don't rush on the dyno.....
I have a feeling he knows a hell of alot more about breaking in motors than most....i think he's done it more than any non-mechanic here.....
Do what you said you were going to do....don't waste your money on synthetic and get the benefit regular oil will give you during break in......also don't rush on the dyno.....