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I just installed a set of Apes and the break lever isn't making contact with the break light switch. The guys that sold me the kit said that the it was because the swithc housing wasn't installed correctly. I checked and it is flush. Anyone else have any ideas?
I wonder if the return spring for the lever is weak ?
I had to stretch mine a little to get it to hold the switch, i might even need a rubber band on it to keep it from fluttering my brakelight ..its a lil old and worn a bit lmao
This question sounds familiar to me. I remember buying a taiwan set of switches and housings one time and had a problem with them. I think it was the same thing your running into. I remember taking out the gold colored metal contact plate and soldering a zinc washer (about the size of a dime) onto the metal piece. I did the trick. the solder holds the washer on just fine.
Is it possible that you broke the tip off of the brake light switch when you installed the lever?
The switch is fine, I can activate it manually. The small little tip makes contact if I jiggle the lever. It's almost as if the casting was off. Might try the washer trick though.
I had this same issue using some Drag Specialties housings. I added a small piece of thin foam tape to the brake where it touches the light switch. Same as the washer trick. It pushes the plunger in far enough I can set the cruise control without a bump disabling it.
I had this same issue using some Drag Specialties housings. I added a small piece of thin foam tape to the brake where it touches the light switch. Same as the washer trick. It pushes the plunger in far enough I can set the cruise control without a bump disabling it.
Cool idea
Im bringing home a lil chunk of 2 sided tape tomorow from work.
I will put a lil dab of ducktape on one side and stick the other to my lever...home made spacer
From: Southern California High Desert, here and there....
Had the exact same problem after installing Cyclesmith bagger apes and HD chrome switch housings. Problem was caused by the 1.25" => 1" taper near the end of the bar slightly canting the front brake master cylinder and making the tab on the lever slightly miss the brake light switch. Easy fix: applied a small but smooth rounded build up using JBWeld to the tab after roughening the tab surface a bit. Works perfect.
Had the exact same problem after installing Cyclesmith bagger apes and HD chrome switch housings. Problem was caused by the 1.25" => 1" taper near the end of the bar slightly canting the front brake master cylinder and making the tab on the lever slightly miss the brake light switch. Easy fix: applied a small but smooth rounded build up using JBWeld to the tab after roughening the tab surface a bit. Works perfect.
That sounds exactly like the problem I'm haveing. There is a 1.25" to 1" taper on the bars. I have JB Weld in the garage, after I hear what the guys at HCC say about their product I'll give this a try. Thanks!
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