Torque wrench question
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Long Island
I purchased a torque wrench form sears today. It is the 3/8 10-75lbs one. My question is will thei torque range 10-75 lbs) be sufficient for most jobs I would do on my bike? The other choices were 25-150 or 25-250 I think, The reason I went with this one is that the fill plugs are 14-21lbs torque form what I understand. I wont be changing tires of anything like that but wanted a torque wrench around in case I need it. Oil changes are the only "regular" maintenance I will be doing.
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
Remember to SLOWLY torque what ever it is you are torquing. The guys that SNAP the wrench quick are not compensating for the friction that is the binding force in the first place. In other words, it takes a little time for the bolt to twist (yes, it will twist and stretch) before the proper torque is reached.
The main reason for proper torque values is because the elasticity of the metal and the friction of the screw threads.
If you tighten a bolt that is going to heat up, the difference in materials/fastener applications may cause a bolt to stretch beyond its elasticity moment, or depending on application, LOOSEN so much that the friction on the threads loosens and the bolt backs out.
Also, as for plugs, or any fastener that is removed and re-installed (even if the fastener is new) the threads in the hole will be the same, so, they have to be considered as well. You DON'T want to have to heli-coil a spark plug hole...it's just no fun on that 1500 mile ride wondering if it's gonna hold! And threads can and will weaken with work hardening (working of metal over time embrittles it and it will fail)
You are definitely on the right track, I'd recommend a good inch pound wrench as well, and I even have a torque screw driver for those metal screws into plastic applications.
Definitely get a P-Met qualified shop (if you can find one) to do your calibration. All my wrenches are Snap-On, and I can tell you that what's on the scale and what's reality are TWO different values. (ok, this may not be what you're needing, you said you're just doing oil changes, but this is just for the guys that may be wanting to do serious torquing)
The main reason for proper torque values is because the elasticity of the metal and the friction of the screw threads.
If you tighten a bolt that is going to heat up, the difference in materials/fastener applications may cause a bolt to stretch beyond its elasticity moment, or depending on application, LOOSEN so much that the friction on the threads loosens and the bolt backs out.
Also, as for plugs, or any fastener that is removed and re-installed (even if the fastener is new) the threads in the hole will be the same, so, they have to be considered as well. You DON'T want to have to heli-coil a spark plug hole...it's just no fun on that 1500 mile ride wondering if it's gonna hold! And threads can and will weaken with work hardening (working of metal over time embrittles it and it will fail)
You are definitely on the right track, I'd recommend a good inch pound wrench as well, and I even have a torque screw driver for those metal screws into plastic applications.
Definitely get a P-Met qualified shop (if you can find one) to do your calibration. All my wrenches are Snap-On, and I can tell you that what's on the scale and what's reality are TWO different values. (ok, this may not be what you're needing, you said you're just doing oil changes, but this is just for the guys that may be wanting to do serious torquing)
Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,597
Likes: 0
From: South Jersey
Remember to SLOWLY torque what ever it is you are torquing. The guys that SNAP the wrench quick are not compensating for the friction that is the binding force in the first place. In other words, it takes a little time for the bolt to twist (yes, it will twist and stretch) before the proper torque is reached.
The main reason for proper torque values is because the elasticity of the metal and the friction of the screw threads.
If you tighten a bolt that is going to heat up, the difference in materials/fastener applications may cause a bolt to stretch beyond its elasticity moment, or depending on application, LOOSEN so much that the friction on the threads loosens and the bolt backs out.
Also, as for plugs, or any fastener that is removed and re-installed (even if the fastener is new) the threads in the hole will be the same, so, they have to be considered as well. You DON'T want to have to heli-coil a spark plug hole...it's just no fun on that 1500 mile ride wondering if it's gonna hold! And threads can and will weaken with work hardening (working of metal over time embrittles it and it will fail)
You are definitely on the right track, I'd recommend a good inch pound wrench as well, and I even have a torque screw driver for those metal screws into plastic applications.
Definitely get a P-Met qualified shop (if you can find one) to do your calibration. All my wrenches are Snap-On, and I can tell you that what's on the scale and what's reality are TWO different values. (ok, this may not be what you're needing, you said you're just doing oil changes, but this is just for the guys that may be wanting to do serious torquing)
The main reason for proper torque values is because the elasticity of the metal and the friction of the screw threads.
If you tighten a bolt that is going to heat up, the difference in materials/fastener applications may cause a bolt to stretch beyond its elasticity moment, or depending on application, LOOSEN so much that the friction on the threads loosens and the bolt backs out.
Also, as for plugs, or any fastener that is removed and re-installed (even if the fastener is new) the threads in the hole will be the same, so, they have to be considered as well. You DON'T want to have to heli-coil a spark plug hole...it's just no fun on that 1500 mile ride wondering if it's gonna hold! And threads can and will weaken with work hardening (working of metal over time embrittles it and it will fail)
You are definitely on the right track, I'd recommend a good inch pound wrench as well, and I even have a torque screw driver for those metal screws into plastic applications.
Definitely get a P-Met qualified shop (if you can find one) to do your calibration. All my wrenches are Snap-On, and I can tell you that what's on the scale and what's reality are TWO different values. (ok, this may not be what you're needing, you said you're just doing oil changes, but this is just for the guys that may be wanting to do serious torquing)
Not to get off subject but speaking of "Work-hardening" My clutch was pretty stiff on my 99 RK, I figured I would replace the diaphram spring on the clutch. The dealer didn't have stock diaphrams there but did happen to stock a "Screamin' Eagle" heavy duty one (which was cheaper in price than the stock spring). So I popped that in. Even for being a heavy duty spring it was like half the clutch effort as the hardened spring that WAS in there.
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
I have a set of three 1/4 3/8 1/2. I don't unload them i just turn them off. Of course they cost a pretty penny too, but im a tool nut. Alot o things in the automotive world are going to nm. I haven,t got my hd manual yet do they use that at all in there specs?
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,999
Likes: 55
From: Bay Area
All good advice here, but no one has mentioned another important thing: Only use a torque wrench in the direction it is designed for. IE; tighten only (depending on the model). Way to tell is to look on the handle or shaft, it will have an arrow pointing in the direction of proper use. Cheap wrenches probably have no markings on them. Some are one way and some click type are bi-directional.
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 304
Likes: 38
From: Port Orange, FL
I've been doing my fluids for 40 years. Never used torque wrenches, just did 'em by feel. Got an '09 Electraglide Standard and decided to do my own fluids on it rather than at the service intervals to save me some shop labor charges. I purchased a torque wrench for the drain plugs and what do you think happened? I blew out the threads on the oil pan with the drain bolt on the torque wrench. Put in a self tapping oversized drain plug, went by feel like I used to and promptly returned the torque wrench. If you are only using it for fluid changes, just go by feel man. I do have an inch pound torque wrench for smaller screws, but again, feel is the best way. These things ain't the space shuttle when it comes to torque values. Caution and feel will get you buy if you're not doing major engine stuff. Just my opinion.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,913
Likes: 2,542
You would do well to buy a inch/lb wrench as well for all the smaller fasteners, like derby cover, primary cover, yada, yada, yada. I snagged a torque screwdriver on E Bay as well that I love. It goes up to 36 in/lb.