Are you a leaner?

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Jun 30, 2010 | 02:22 AM

#21

Krazy8s

Stellar HDF Member

Joined: May 2010

Posts: 2,864

Likes: 127

From: Aussie lost in Switzerland

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clocker

Not sure why but I only lean to the left.

for some weird reason I do the same, I am far more agressive on lefthanded curves than right handed....

maybe I have some deep psychological aversion to right hand curves......

Jun 30, 2010 | 02:34 AM

#22

SVTNate

Cruiser

Joined: Jun 2009

Posts: 243

Likes: 1

From: Orange County CA

Centerline,

Your pics brought a smile to my face. WELL DONE! That's the sort of riding that will leave inexperienced sport bike riders in the dust, wondering how a Harley could corner like that.

Jun 30, 2010 | 07:03 AM

#23

Squee

Cruiser

Joined: Jun 2008

Posts: 216

Likes: 1

From: Upstate, NY

I used to have a hard time NOT dragging pegs in some fast corners. Then I started working on body position like what you would see sport bike riders do. I still scrape but I am able to get more speed out of it.
Off the seat, hanging off the side, head positioned where I am looking to the outside of my mirror and all my weight on my legs and none on my arms. Caught up to quite a few sport bikes going through some twisites.

As a disclaimer - I do this on backroads with good visability that I know very, very well while still being close to the speed limit.

Jun 30, 2010 | 07:14 AM

#24

shortride

Ultimate HDF Member

Joined: Jun 2009

Posts: 6,932

Likes: 4

From: 46th State, USA

"Officer, I was only dragging my pegs and other parts of my bike before hitting that pot hole." After that, I don't remember nothin'.

Jun 30, 2010 | 07:46 AM

#25

soundman

Road Captain

Joined: Jun 2008

Posts: 561

Likes: 0

From: Amelia, Virginia

I love dragging the floorboards in parking lots at slow speed, however, I've learned that doing that at speed isn't a good thing. Reason is that when you're scraping, you've used up ALL of your lean angle. If something pops up in the curve that you didn't see, you have no more lean to avoid it should you need it. Also, if your dragging hard parts and there happens to be a dip or bump, it could lift enough weight to cause you to wash out. Check out the book by Lee Parks called "Total Control"

Jun 30, 2010 | 08:34 AM

#26

Low_Wider

Thread Starter

Road Captain

Joined: Jul 2007

Posts: 528

Likes: 1

From: Cumming, Ga.

Quote:

Originally Posted by soundman

While it is true that at the point of scrapping something you've limited your options but it is NOT true that you have used ALL of your lean angle. All you have to do is increase the lean angle of your body into the turn. Actually, your lean angle is actually determined by a combination of the lean of the bike and the lean of your body. The speed and radius of the turn will determine the "total lean" required but it is a combination of body and bike lean. If you increase one, the other will decrease such that "total lean" is maintained.
How can you increase your "body lean"? It can be as little as leaning your upper body further into the turn. I do this by leaning my head down towards the inside mirror (of course keeping my eyes on where I'm going!). I have been surprised how much this little body movement brought the bike back up. Of course you can take it to the other extreme like the CR guys and slide your whole body into the turn and hang on by your outside leg (knee pads highly recommended).
Just wanted to pass on this one additional option for when you get yourself in that situation where you're hard on the brakes, scrapping pegs and getting that sick feeling that at this rate you're going off the road or into oncoming traffic both of which are scenarios I REALLY don't like......

Jun 30, 2010 | 08:57 AM

#27

soundman

Road Captain

Joined: Jun 2008

Posts: 561

Likes: 0

From: Amelia, Virginia

Quote:

Originally Posted by Low_Wider

I was referring to the lean angle of the bike. When you are dragging parts, your bike IS at its maximum lean angle. True, your body position does effect how the bike behaves in a curve, but properly done, your body should be offset PRIOR to initiating a lean in a curve. This allows you to negotiate the curve faster and safer while not having to lean the bike over as far, thus creating a larger contact patch for more traction. Seriously, check out Lee Parks book, and also some of Keith Code's books as well. You sound like the kind of rider that would eat that stuff up. Great reading. Ride safe

Jun 30, 2010 | 11:31 AM

#28

Centerline

Road Warrior

Joined: Nov 2008

Posts: 1,789

Likes: 9

From: Double Oak, Texas

The being able to get the body off the seat, or sliding over more to the inside of a turn is a big part of my reason for selecting the Fat Bob with Mid Controls for allowing the rider to actually be in a position to aggressively control the beast, rather than the passive position of feet far forward. Unfortunately(for me) the Fat Bob is the only current Dyna that is factory equipped with another of my cruiser requirements..... 2 front discs for more braking authority and fade free performance when riding continuous grade changes and linked twisties.
Also, for the sparking photo, I was accelerating the bike to increase it's lean angle to throw more sparks for the photographer in a corner I have run several hundred times. I don't get leaned way over on any corner unless I have run it many times, and have checked it easy speeds prior to harder runs.