Broken Header Bolt
Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 882
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee, WI
Worst case is that you have to drill out the entire stud. In that case you can drill a larger hole and then install a helicoil. Also get a good penetrating oil/rust buster and let it soak in for a couple hours before you attempt to remove the stud. Sometimes a light tap on the stud will help the oil penetrate better. This may help if corrosion is the problem. If the threads are galled then you will probably have to drill the stud out. If you have not done this type of work you might want to take the head to a machine shop
Last edited by GT_RoadGlide; Jul 13, 2010 at 01:16 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 20,616
Likes: 4,440
From: anacoco, la
Worst case is that you have to drill out the entire stud. In that case you can drill a larger hole and then install a helicoil. Also get a good penetrating oil/rust buster and let it soak in for a couple hours before you attempt to remove the stud. Sometimes a light tap on the stud will help the oil penetrate better. This may help if corrosion is the problem. If the threads are galled then you will probably have to drill the stud out. If you have not done this type of work you might want to take the head to a machine shop
check out this tool from jims. basically, you use the existing good stud to bolt the plate to your exhaust port, then drill the other stud. the drill is the exact size so that when you are done, you can use a pliers and pull the thread out of the head. clean it up with a tap and you're good to go.
i've found it online for around $85.00. once you've had to pay someone to drill out the broken stud, it's paid for itself.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,999
Likes: 55
From: Bay Area
i had this problem before. i tried to use an easy out, but the remaining piece of stud was so tight in the head that if i had tried, the easy out would have snapped.
check out this tool from jims. basically, you use the existing good stud to bolt the plate to your exhaust port, then drill the other stud. the drill is the exact size so that when you are done, you can use a pliers and pull the thread out of the head. clean it up with a tap and you're good to go.
i've found it online for around $85.00. once you've had to pay someone to drill out the broken stud, it's paid for itself.
check out this tool from jims. basically, you use the existing good stud to bolt the plate to your exhaust port, then drill the other stud. the drill is the exact size so that when you are done, you can use a pliers and pull the thread out of the head. clean it up with a tap and you're good to go.
i've found it online for around $85.00. once you've had to pay someone to drill out the broken stud, it's paid for itself.
To whomever said the stud was so tight, I would also try getting a torch and heat up the stud and then let it cool, whether theres locktite or corrosion it would be easier to turn out.
Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 882
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee, WI
i had this problem before. i tried to use an easy out, but the remaining piece of stud was so tight in the head that if i had tried, the easy out would have snapped.
check out this tool from jims. basically, you use the existing good stud to bolt the plate to your exhaust port, then drill the other stud. the drill is the exact size so that when you are done, you can use a pliers and pull the thread out of the head. clean it up with a tap and you're good to go.
i've found it online for around $85.00. once you've had to pay someone to drill out the broken stud, it's paid for itself.
check out this tool from jims. basically, you use the existing good stud to bolt the plate to your exhaust port, then drill the other stud. the drill is the exact size so that when you are done, you can use a pliers and pull the thread out of the head. clean it up with a tap and you're good to go.
i've found it online for around $85.00. once you've had to pay someone to drill out the broken stud, it's paid for itself.
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