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Broken swingarm

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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 05:23 PM
  #41  
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What is this retro kit you speak off? Is that for the pivot rubbers?



cheers
 
Old Nov 5, 2012 | 05:34 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Sauceman
What is this retro kit you speak off? Is that for the pivot rubbers?

cheers
Yes, CCE ( Custom Cycle Engineering,) has a kit ($278 ?)that replaces our rubber/silicone clevis blocks inside the SA with spherical bearings like the '02 and later bikes.

Several outfits though, ( Stabo, Glide Pro, Motorcycle Metal,) offer similar composite replacements for the clevis blocks that accomplish similar results.

I plan on calling a couple and talking to them about those options too before deciding. My big issue is longeviy in that I ride close to 25,000 miles a year, and an all metal kit ( CCE's) impresses me.
 
Old Nov 5, 2012 | 05:53 PM
  #43  
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Great thread OP, probobly have everyone out checking their swingarms lol. This is a very scary problem, especially if you ride the bike hard..

Below is my attempt to avoid this issue on a FXR build..


[IMG][/IMG]
 
Old Nov 5, 2012 | 07:20 PM
  #44  
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One of the reasons could be that when you tighten up the axle and the wheel bearing spacers are tightened up against the wall of the swing arm it crushes it. If you were to make a mushroom like axle spacer/washer that applies pressure against the top and bottom of the tubing and not just the center part of the tubing that is not supported than you will not have problems if you also replace those round axle adjusters and make a pair of blocks that slide forward and to the rear to adjust your chain/belt, make a block on the rear of the swing arm and tap your new block axle adjusters with 1/4" X 20 threads, drill 2 corresponding holes in your end blocks and counter bore them, buy Alan head bolts than adjust from the rear. A solid block that is lubed with never-seez will work well for many years thus elimination the problem. Here is what I did:


 
Old Nov 5, 2012 | 09:06 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by FastHarley
One of the reasons could be that when you tighten up the axle and the wheel bearing spacers are tightened up against the wall of the swing arm it crushes it. If you were to make a mushroom like axle spacer/washer that applies pressure against the top and bottom of the tubing and not just the center part of the tubing that is not supported than you will not have problems if you also replace those round axle adjusters and make a pair of blocks that slide forward and to the rear to adjust your chain/belt, make a block on the rear of the swing arm and tap your new block axle adjusters with 1/4" X 20 threads, drill 2 corresponding holes in your end blocks and counter bore them, buy Alan head bolts than adjust from the rear. A solid block that is lubed with never-seez will work well for many years thus elimination the problem. Here is what I did:


I made some mods to mine when I started playing with pulley sizes to change my final drive ratio's & get a shade more clearance for a couple issues when I did my rear belt conversion on my old shovel . Had to lengthen the adjustment slots about 5/8" to get the belt right . I had already reinforced the swingarm years ago when I widened & lengthened it for the belt conversion to clear the pulley , you can see the added on part on the bottom under the slots . Didn't like all the extra air space in there with the old adjusters so I made these .




Before ;



After ;

 
Old Nov 6, 2012 | 03:23 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by FastHarley
One of the reasons could be that when you tighten up the axle and the wheel bearing spacers are tightened up against the wall of the swing arm it crushes it. If you were to make a mushroom like axle spacer/washer that applies pressure against the top and bottom of the tubing and not just the center part of the tubing that is not supported than you will not have problems if you also replace those round axle adjusters and make a pair of blocks that slide forward and to the rear to adjust your chain/belt, make a block on the rear of the swing arm and tap your new block axle adjusters with 1/4" X 20 threads, drill 2 corresponding holes in your end blocks and counter bore them, buy Alan head bolts than adjust from the rear. A solid block that is lubed with never-seez will work well for many years thus elimination the problem. Here is what I did:


And that's exactly what I did too. Found a set of adjuster blocks on EBay, got the dimensions and they seem to be a close to perfect fit for the inside of the swingarm.

And thanks for the heads up on the outside washer. That's an easy add on and I'll pick up a pair.
 
Old Nov 6, 2012 | 08:25 AM
  #47  
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I have a 2000 Roadglide, I heard about this problem when I purchased it a couple of years ago, the 1st mod I did to the bike was a 2007 swingarm.

Bike handles like it's on rails, no more fish tailing in the sweepers and best of all piece of mind when I'm riding.
 
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