Andrews ev27 cam install with out removing tappet blocks
#1
Andrews ev27 cam install with out removing tappet blocks
Can I install the Andrews ev27 cam without removing the tappet blocks. Pushrods are out and i have a .055 shim for the cam . Will it bolt right in with that set up. My bike is 1996 evo motor dyna wg. Will that tollerence be ok ?? Not replacing lifters due to the fact that the motor only has 5000 miles on it.
Last edited by blair; 03-01-2011 at 08:10 PM.
#2
Can I install the Andrews ev27 cam without removing the tappet blocks. Pushrods are out and i have a .055 shim for the cam . Will it bolt right in with that set up. My bike is 1996 evo motor dyna wg. Will that tollerence be ok ?? Not replacing lifters due to the fact that the motor only has 5000 miles on it.
Last edited by Mike T; 03-02-2011 at 06:47 AM.
#3
Hope this helps, also try searching the Evo forum. lots of good advice on there!!
#4
The cam in fact does get shimmed. Learn from my mistakes! After installing the new cam, put the new gasket and your cam cover back on and torque to correct tightness. Install ignition rotor (for something to pull on.) and Remove your rear tappet block. (Rear lifter tappet does need to removed because It is the only way to gain access to check cam end play.) Grab your Feeler gauge and while pulling rotor back and forth, measure the play. Harleys spec I BELIEVE IS .001" - .050" to be in tolerance for end play. I personally had to use a .060" shim to get my self to .009" of end play.
Hope this helps, also try searching the Evo forum. lots of good advice on there!!
Hope this helps, also try searching the Evo forum. lots of good advice on there!!
Last edited by Mike T; 03-02-2011 at 08:24 AM.
#5
When I put my EV27 in my bike I installed it with no shim because I was nieve and never heard about doing it before, (put it in late fall of 2010.) Then after the topic came up in BS Sessions with some friends, I did some searching on the forum and sure -****. they are suppose to be shimmed to get correct end play.
So I tore it down last week and put a shim in along with v-thunder adjustable pushrods so I would not have to remove fuel tank, rocker covers, etc. it so It will be ready to go for the summer.
From what ive read, and reports from my friends, an un shimmed cam that is OUT OF TOLERANCE, can result in premature bearing failure, and wearing of gears. So to be safe, I spent a couple bucks and bought a new gasket and shim and figured fix it now, and not have problems later. Also, Harleys spec of .001"-.050" is a pretty broad range. typically seems most people like to make sure it is between .001" -.010". I guess Harley widened to range pretty much to save time and money.
Hope this helps, and Mike, if it were me, Id tear down and check end play to be safe. Might be a good time to install adjustable pushrods too if you dont already have them. (note to that too, not all adjustable pushrods can be installed without removing rocker boxes)
So I tore it down last week and put a shim in along with v-thunder adjustable pushrods so I would not have to remove fuel tank, rocker covers, etc. it so It will be ready to go for the summer.
From what ive read, and reports from my friends, an un shimmed cam that is OUT OF TOLERANCE, can result in premature bearing failure, and wearing of gears. So to be safe, I spent a couple bucks and bought a new gasket and shim and figured fix it now, and not have problems later. Also, Harleys spec of .001"-.050" is a pretty broad range. typically seems most people like to make sure it is between .001" -.010". I guess Harley widened to range pretty much to save time and money.
Hope this helps, and Mike, if it were me, Id tear down and check end play to be safe. Might be a good time to install adjustable pushrods too if you dont already have them. (note to that too, not all adjustable pushrods can be installed without removing rocker boxes)
#6
Greetings,
I used some strong magnets and some 1/4 x 1 1/2 in bolts with fender washers.
Stick the magnets to the bolt heads and stick these to the lifters.
Drop the fender washer on and use a nut to adjust the length to hold the lifters up out of the way.
BE SURE to change the INA inner cam bearing to a Torrington.
BE SURE to shim the cam - there are instructions with the EV27 on how to measure and set this up.
Everything else is gravy!
Did my 97WG and it is pretty easy and makes the motor pull off the bottom nicely.
I used some strong magnets and some 1/4 x 1 1/2 in bolts with fender washers.
Stick the magnets to the bolt heads and stick these to the lifters.
Drop the fender washer on and use a nut to adjust the length to hold the lifters up out of the way.
BE SURE to change the INA inner cam bearing to a Torrington.
BE SURE to shim the cam - there are instructions with the EV27 on how to measure and set this up.
Everything else is gravy!
Did my 97WG and it is pretty easy and makes the motor pull off the bottom nicely.
Trending Topics
#8
And any Evo from 1992 to the present day brand new '99 model year crate motors have the INA inner cam bearing. So change that to the Torrington. We are only mentioning that as the OP didn't say anything about changing it out.
There are some magnetic tools available to hold the lifters up out of the way (important so you don't bugger up the cam lobes.) But a good homemade magnet set up can work too. These ones below are Screaming Eagle and say they are for Twin Cam motors but I'm pretty sure they fit Evo lifter blocks too. The sell for $20.
If not, these ones say they fit both Evo and Twin Cam.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Twin-...item3a63135747
There are some magnetic tools available to hold the lifters up out of the way (important so you don't bugger up the cam lobes.) But a good homemade magnet set up can work too. These ones below are Screaming Eagle and say they are for Twin Cam motors but I'm pretty sure they fit Evo lifter blocks too. The sell for $20.
If not, these ones say they fit both Evo and Twin Cam.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Twin-...item3a63135747
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post