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Most high performance cars (BMW for instance) advises brake fluid changes every 2 years. But cars have a lot more fluid capacity which means it takes longer for moisture to saturate the fluid. They can tolerate neglect better than motorcycles.
There are many drivers who have to change brake pads and rotors more frequently because the calipers are dragging. Eventually the corroded caliper pistons are diagnosed and they get to buy new brake calipers. When asked how often they change their brake fluid, they say never.
Thanks for the info. I think of myself as pretty car savy, but I don't mind admitting when I don't know something. I really did not know that.
I don't think of it as flushing, rather pulling clean fluid through the system without introducing air into it. I know its overkill but I do it once a year along with cleaning, inspecting and servicing the brake pads.
For all the do it yourself people here is a quick brake bleeding device a friend made and used until he passed in a motorcycle accident. This consists of an old spaghetti jar, 1/4" plastic tubing, a scrap of PVC sink drain, a scrap of wood to make a plug, a 3" strip of duct tape and his miti-vac. Just keep a snug fit from the holes to the tubing for good suction. After being asked how it works, he simply stated "It sucks".
You do not want to pump out the old fluid and then start the new fluid.
If you do that you will fill the system with air and you will have do do a lot more work to pump all the air out of the system.
Remove the reservoir cap and start pumping out the old fluid. Refill the reservoir with new fluid as needed to prevent it from going too low and sucking air into the system.
Keep pumping the fluid through until you see clean fluid coming out. If you have two calipers on the front wheel do one until clean fluid comes out and then do the other. The second will not take as long as you will have already purged part of the system. Close everything up and clean up the mess and you're done.
There are a number of ways to flush the fluid including the old apply brakes/open bleeder/shut bleeder/release brakes method. This works but can be awkward unless you have really long arms or have someone to help. Vacuum systems that pull the fluid through the open bleeder are popular because you do not have to pump the lever. You still have to watch the level in the reservoir so it does not run dry.
I have tried a couple different vacuum systems and could not get them to work to my satisfaction. The ones I tried pulled air through the threads of the bleeder more than they pulled fluid through the system. There is a good chance I was not doing something correctly but I do not know what it was.
On my last two bikes including my current one I installed Speed Bleeders. These bleeders replace the factory bleeder valves. They have a one-way check valve inside. To use, you open them about a quarter turn, attach a tube and collection bag or bottle, and simply pump the brakes. The one-way valve prevents air from entering the system. Everything else works the same (pump until you see clean fluid, keep the reservoir full). I bought the stainless steel versions and I think they were $10 or $15 each. My bike took three, two on the front and one on the back. With these installed I can easily and quickly flush the brake fluid by myself.
You can order Speed Bleeders directly from the company (do a search for their web site) or from various distributors.
I am not sure what your manual states on the brake fluid change frequency but for most vehicles it is once every two years regardless of mileage. The reason for the two years interval is because standard type 4 fluid can absorb moisture, whether being ridden or not.
I hope the helps.
This post will save me way more than a Hundred Dollars over the next few years. Thanks!
I changed mine after I recieved the SpeedBleeders and I was amazed at the fluid that came out. It was a far cry from the nice light purple dot5 I was putting back into my 04 Heritage. I assumed the fluid was 8 years old and showed its age badly, scared me to have my life depending on this brake fluid I pulled out of my bike
I recommend changing the fluid if you don't know how old the brake fluid is.
Also clean your brake caliper pistons, mine were a sticky, grinding mess and now work perfectly with no grinding noises anymore. There are posts in this forum on how to clean brake caliper pistons.
I don't plan on testing it, but some tech date states that DOT 5, which my '03 FLTRI uses, doesn't harm paint. Synthetic properties, etc.... I've heard my whole life that brake fluid will ruin paint. On real hot days my brakes sometimes seem spongy- supposedly this is an attribute, or trade off of the high 500 degree boil temp of DOT 5. Probably why HD has gone to DOT 4 on newer models.
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