Trailering Question
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 15
I use MC chock,pull down both handle bars with soft straps evenly .( sometimes two straps on each side if going long trip .if one strap brakes its going over) Usually pull down back wheel .( foot pegs ,axle ,etc. ) keeps back of bike in place. I do hate to trailer. If you use good chock and pull bars down that is really all you need.My chock mounts to trailer so it will not move. good luck
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 28,842
Likes: 16,582
From: Wisconsin, USA
On 5-31 there was a post on transporting in a pickup bed. Montana Cowboy gave the best answer ever. I think his advice on the bike in bed can be used on trailer too.
I snow bird in Arizona from Montana 4 months a year. WE tow our horse down the trailer and I load up my Dyna in the bed of my 1 ton Dually 4x4. If you do it right it's not dangerous and pretty easy.
First off here are some important hints:
1. Buy the best set of ramps and tie downs you can afford. A ramp that's wide...and long. Tie downs the ratchet are best in my opinion.
2. Have good help. Three strong people are minimum, four works best.
3. Good DRY level footing is a must.
4. Make sure everybody understands the "Plan", and knows what expected of him.
Here's how I do it: I find a good spot with a steep driveway, or a firm grassy berm, so when loading I fight gravity as little as possible. I put my bike in neutral and stand on the right side controlling the hand brake as we go up. Helper #2 is on the left and responsible for keeping the bike rolling straight up and down on it's center of gravity. Helper #3 is the main pusher who is behind doing most of the grunting. Helper #4 stands in the truck bed and balances the bike while I climb up in after the front tires (and most of the bikes weight has entered the truck bed).
Once up, we walk he up till the front tire makes contact with the back wall of the truck bed....and my left hand helper then kicks down the jiffy stand, and we relax the bike over onto it's stand.
Then, hook your tie downs onto each handle bar, and starting for the right, ratchet that baby up off it's stand till it's just about straight up and down. The tighten up the left till she's good and snug. When it's perfectly balanced ratchet a click on one side then the other till you take up a inch or two of play, compressing the front forks and springs against the bike tire. Make sure there's still good play left because this is what keeps your bike stable over railroad tracks and bumps along the way.
I use a set of ties from the back side also, running to my rear corner eyes in the truck bed. I think this is overkill but it still makes me feel better.
While in route every time I gas up I walk around twanging on tie straps to make sure everything is snugged. I also and continually looking at the bike in the rearview mirror to make sure it's not starting to lean.
I would add that when you buy the tie-downs get the kind that has a soft-loop to put the handlebar hook into. Make sure the ratchets aren't rubbing against bike. I wrap a rag around ratchets to prevent rubbing. Tie up loose end of tie down straps so they aren't flying around. Good luck.
I snow bird in Arizona from Montana 4 months a year. WE tow our horse down the trailer and I load up my Dyna in the bed of my 1 ton Dually 4x4. If you do it right it's not dangerous and pretty easy.
First off here are some important hints:
1. Buy the best set of ramps and tie downs you can afford. A ramp that's wide...and long. Tie downs the ratchet are best in my opinion.
2. Have good help. Three strong people are minimum, four works best.
3. Good DRY level footing is a must.
4. Make sure everybody understands the "Plan", and knows what expected of him.
Here's how I do it: I find a good spot with a steep driveway, or a firm grassy berm, so when loading I fight gravity as little as possible. I put my bike in neutral and stand on the right side controlling the hand brake as we go up. Helper #2 is on the left and responsible for keeping the bike rolling straight up and down on it's center of gravity. Helper #3 is the main pusher who is behind doing most of the grunting. Helper #4 stands in the truck bed and balances the bike while I climb up in after the front tires (and most of the bikes weight has entered the truck bed).
Once up, we walk he up till the front tire makes contact with the back wall of the truck bed....and my left hand helper then kicks down the jiffy stand, and we relax the bike over onto it's stand.
Then, hook your tie downs onto each handle bar, and starting for the right, ratchet that baby up off it's stand till it's just about straight up and down. The tighten up the left till she's good and snug. When it's perfectly balanced ratchet a click on one side then the other till you take up a inch or two of play, compressing the front forks and springs against the bike tire. Make sure there's still good play left because this is what keeps your bike stable over railroad tracks and bumps along the way.
I use a set of ties from the back side also, running to my rear corner eyes in the truck bed. I think this is overkill but it still makes me feel better.
While in route every time I gas up I walk around twanging on tie straps to make sure everything is snugged. I also and continually looking at the bike in the rearview mirror to make sure it's not starting to lean.
I would add that when you buy the tie-downs get the kind that has a soft-loop to put the handlebar hook into. Make sure the ratchets aren't rubbing against bike. I wrap a rag around ratchets to prevent rubbing. Tie up loose end of tie down straps so they aren't flying around. Good luck.
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 724
Likes: 2
Google MOKI tie down system. It's expensive, but you can get all the parts at the tractor supply company and craigs list for about 125.00. With the MOKI system, you're NOT compressing the front shocks at all, not a bit. I made my own copy cat system and it is nothing shy of phenomenal. I actually stumbled across it because I had "invented" the system in my head, knew what I wanted, and google searched to get ideas if anything like what I planned was already made.
If you're not motivated enough to copy cat it, buy it, it's only about $350.00, and think of all the wear and tear you'll be saving your front shocks from being compressed for a long haul !!! Shoot, you could easily put out $100.00 just on straps and soft ties.
If you're not motivated enough to copy cat it, buy it, it's only about $350.00, and think of all the wear and tear you'll be saving your front shocks from being compressed for a long haul !!! Shoot, you could easily put out $100.00 just on straps and soft ties.
for a long period of time? as of yet no one ever has a answer .
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 7,476
Likes: 5
From: Republic of Texas
Don't compress the suspension where it can't move. I use six to eight tie downs per bike. Make sure that even though the bike can work on it's own suspension that the straps don't come loose from tie down points. Hog ties to wrap around what I am securing the bike from. I tie down using triple trees and passenger peg frame brackets. I add a set of soft ties to the lower part of the handle bars as last take offs. I can remove them after all the other straps while sitting on the bike. Kick stand up---bike in neutral when secured. A man smarter then myself told me to secure my bike like I expected the trailer to be picked up and turned upside down with the bike remaining in place. I have seen the results of a bike coming loose and what happens when you allow heavy objects to bounce in the trailer floors. It wasn't my trailer or bikes. I did take home the lesson I saw. Others do it different and I am sure that their methods usually work but I prefer mine for peace of mind.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,705
Likes: 22,718
From: Farmington ,MS
I have compressed the front end on mine and several other bikes for many years with no damage. People that say it damaged theirs...either did something stupid or it was just time for that seal to be replaced from normal wear. Yes they are compressed in the factory crate...I have several of the factory tie-downs I got from a friend that works at a dealer...they work great for strapping the bike to a jack. Just make sure you use a chock and quality ratchet tie downs and you will be fine. Due to customizations...handlebars etc..every bike is a little different and you have to find the correct way for that bike.
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 286
Likes: 0
From: SW Iowa
I trailered my bagger home when I bought it (wife was pregnant) I got ahold of the frame just above the crash bar mount and somewhere around the rear crash bars. I also put a block of wood under frame with a piece of carpet to protect the frame and cinched it down tight, meaning NO suspension movement. That's just how I did it, I'm sure it wasn't the "proper" way but from the wheel of an 18 wheeler I have seen ALOT of bikes trailered and the ones that were not cinched down tight you could see the straps loosen and tighten with every bump. Even saw some that "walked" around on the trailer and were rubbing on another bike (if hauling 2) or against the side of the trailer.
Just my 2 cents
Just my 2 cents
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 7,476
Likes: 5
From: Republic of Texas
How many times you actually kick started that bike? I see an evo engine. Is it still stock?
I have compressed the front end on mine and several other bikes for many years with no damage. People that say it damaged theirs...either did something stupid or it was just time for that seal to be replaced from normal wear. Yes they are compressed in the factory crate...I have several of the factory tie-downs I got from a friend that works at a dealer...they work great for strapping the bike to a jack. Just make sure you use a chock and quality ratchet tie downs and you will be fine. Due to customizations...handlebars etc..every bike is a little different and you have to find the correct way for that bike.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,426
Likes: 90
From: People's Republik of Kalifornia
Do not agree. Hooking to the handle bars allow more direct pressure down onto the front shocks. The bike should be ratcheted down tight enough to firmly lock the front wheel against the forward wall of the trailer, yet leave enough play in the shock to take up any road bumps etc. that might be encountered enroute.
I admit I've trailered a lot.
The above answer is totally correct. By using the handlebars, and putting a little pressure on the front suspension, but not all the way, I've never had any problems for thousands of trailered miles. This also controls any side to side play by the front wheel. In fact, I dont use wheel chocks if they're not available.
Be sure to use the jiffy stand in any case. And put the machine in gear.
Last edited by mrmarklin; Jun 4, 2011 at 02:20 PM.
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: I can't remember
On 5-31 there was a post on transporting in a pickup bed. Montana Cowboy gave the best answer ever. I think his advice on the bike in bed can be used on trailer too.
I snow bird in Arizona from Montana 4 months a year. WE tow our horse down the trailer and I load up my Dyna in the bed of my 1 ton Dually 4x4. If you do it right it's not dangerous and pretty easy.
First off here are some important hints:
1. Buy the best set of ramps and tie downs you can afford. A ramp that's wide...and long. Tie downs the ratchet are best in my opinion.
2. Have good help. Three strong people are minimum, four works best.
3. Good DRY level footing is a must.
4. Make sure everybody understands the "Plan", and knows what expected of him.
Here's how I do it: I find a good spot with a steep driveway, or a firm grassy berm, so when loading I fight gravity as little as possible. I put my bike in neutral and stand on the right side controlling the hand brake as we go up. Helper #2 is on the left and responsible for keeping the bike rolling straight up and down on it's center of gravity. Helper #3 is the main pusher who is behind doing most of the grunting. Helper #4 stands in the truck bed and balances the bike while I climb up in after the front tires (and most of the bikes weight has entered the truck bed).
Once up, we walk he up till the front tire makes contact with the back wall of the truck bed....and my left hand helper then kicks down the jiffy stand, and we relax the bike over onto it's stand.
Then, hook your tie downs onto each handle bar, and starting for the right, ratchet that baby up off it's stand till it's just about straight up and down. The tighten up the left till she's good and snug. When it's perfectly balanced ratchet a click on one side then the other till you take up a inch or two of play, compressing the front forks and springs against the bike tire. Make sure there's still good play left because this is what keeps your bike stable over railroad tracks and bumps along the way.
I use a set of ties from the back side also, running to my rear corner eyes in the truck bed. I think this is overkill but it still makes me feel better.
While in route every time I gas up I walk around twanging on tie straps to make sure everything is snugged. I also and continually looking at the bike in the rearview mirror to make sure it's not starting to lean.
I would add that when you buy the tie-downs get the kind that has a soft-loop to put the handlebar hook into. Make sure the ratchets aren't rubbing against bike. I wrap a rag around ratchets to prevent rubbing. Tie up loose end of tie down straps so they aren't flying around. Good luck.
I snow bird in Arizona from Montana 4 months a year. WE tow our horse down the trailer and I load up my Dyna in the bed of my 1 ton Dually 4x4. If you do it right it's not dangerous and pretty easy.
First off here are some important hints:
1. Buy the best set of ramps and tie downs you can afford. A ramp that's wide...and long. Tie downs the ratchet are best in my opinion.
2. Have good help. Three strong people are minimum, four works best.
3. Good DRY level footing is a must.
4. Make sure everybody understands the "Plan", and knows what expected of him.
Here's how I do it: I find a good spot with a steep driveway, or a firm grassy berm, so when loading I fight gravity as little as possible. I put my bike in neutral and stand on the right side controlling the hand brake as we go up. Helper #2 is on the left and responsible for keeping the bike rolling straight up and down on it's center of gravity. Helper #3 is the main pusher who is behind doing most of the grunting. Helper #4 stands in the truck bed and balances the bike while I climb up in after the front tires (and most of the bikes weight has entered the truck bed).
Once up, we walk he up till the front tire makes contact with the back wall of the truck bed....and my left hand helper then kicks down the jiffy stand, and we relax the bike over onto it's stand.
Then, hook your tie downs onto each handle bar, and starting for the right, ratchet that baby up off it's stand till it's just about straight up and down. The tighten up the left till she's good and snug. When it's perfectly balanced ratchet a click on one side then the other till you take up a inch or two of play, compressing the front forks and springs against the bike tire. Make sure there's still good play left because this is what keeps your bike stable over railroad tracks and bumps along the way.
I use a set of ties from the back side also, running to my rear corner eyes in the truck bed. I think this is overkill but it still makes me feel better.
While in route every time I gas up I walk around twanging on tie straps to make sure everything is snugged. I also and continually looking at the bike in the rearview mirror to make sure it's not starting to lean.
I would add that when you buy the tie-downs get the kind that has a soft-loop to put the handlebar hook into. Make sure the ratchets aren't rubbing against bike. I wrap a rag around ratchets to prevent rubbing. Tie up loose end of tie down straps so they aren't flying around. Good luck.