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I second the advice of replacing with an allen head once you get it out. I don't know why they use crap torx head screws and bolts in the first place. Everyone owns allen wrenches, and they don't strip nearly as easy. I've been down this road several times with torx and phillips head.
Torx head bolts/screws are often used in industrial applications where a torque sensitive device is used to rapidly fasten multiple bolts. The Torx pattern is designed not to "cam out" - i.e. the bit is unlikely to pop out of place, like a traditional flat-blade screwdriver tends to do when it tightens up. I wouldn't be surprised if the factory used a device that tightens all the bolts on the cover at once, which would make Torx fasteners ideal.
The splined pattern on Torx fasteners is not as suitable as Allen-type ones in applications where higher amounts of torque or used. I think.
these require very low torque so the Torx fasteners are very suitable...Biggest problem is people using T25 bit and strip the head..same can happen with a Allen head...I have not had any gone bad yet and my derby cover has been off at least 10 times...I just get good T27 bits...Actually just bought one the other day at Advance Auto.
Do you know anything about using l/h drill bits ? They may get it out before you have to use an easy out.
BTW the proper size to use is T27 not a 25...that's how lots of them get stripped.
Even using a T27 Torx bit, the bolts are sloppy. Where in the heck is Harley buying these junk bolts???
+1
I had one on my derby covered that felt stripped. went to the hardware store and picked up a stainless on, fit like a glove. the HD bolts hardly have threads.
Union labor costs, and the demand from customers to avoid using plastic, keeps prices for materials high as well. Even with the high number of foreign parts content, it's damn hard to provide what they do, for the price they sell them for.
Look at Star Motorcycles? Their costs are getting closer and closer to H/D......if a company wants steel and top shelf parts on the bikes, it costs money.
The ability to buy a brand new, all steel Harley for under 7 grand in today's market is commendable.
~Joe
Last edited by traveler; Jul 29, 2011 at 12:25 PM.
one method that hasn't been mentioned yet, get a center punch and place it on the outer edge of the bolt head. angle the punch to the side so when you hit the punch it will send the force sideways. for example, if you place your punch at 12 oclock on the bolt head, you would hit it to the left which would get it to start turning counter clockwise...
I hope I explained that ok. I'm a millwright and I've had great sucess with this. it's a good first option because it's the least destructive (if you're carefull with the punch!) ...but I know how tough that harley locktite is!
easy-out's should never be your first option because they don't always live up to their name and things can get worse fast (like breaking your hardened easy-out in the bolt or work-hardening it to the point where you can't finish drilling the hole to even get an easy-out in)
..and yeah, definately replace with all new socket head capscrews and get some good allen sockets... good luck
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By far the best method is to use an air hammer (rivet gun) and a screw knocker but most people don't have those things in the garage. An air hammer and a pin punch works great too but again not readily available. That's why drilling the head off with a L/H drill bit and twisting the stem out a favorite of a lot of folks.
I only use an EZ out as a last resort.
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