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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 03:05 PM
  #11  
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Might as well go right to a 98". Bore your stock cylinders, port and deck the heads for around 9.8:1 compression and put in an Andrews tw37. That with the New pipes, ac and a tune will get you in the 100+ for HP and torque with all day drivability. I would upgrade the clutch spring as well.
 
Old Feb 15, 2012 | 03:14 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Harley_Dude
95 will make it ALIVE!!!
But 98 will make it great.......
 
Old Feb 15, 2012 | 03:58 PM
  #13  
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Wished U stated how many miles.
guessing 25K..
Upgrade the tennsioners to new HYD kit, or gear cams.

New lifters with the cams. New inner Torrington cam bearing.

Higher flow A/C and Cams to match Ur ridding style.

Good set of 2-1 pipes.

U'll have a motor that runs cooler, gets better mileage. and even without going to the 95 kit U won't believe the freakin difference.

It'll take all summer to wipe that grin off Ur face and U'll be kicking Ur A$$ for not doing it before now.
 
Old Feb 15, 2012 | 06:52 PM
  #14  
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Thanks for all the great info! I am not educated in all the aspects of a motor so I definitely appreciate all the input y'all are giving me. I think I'm going to wait on the 95" kit, but go ahead and try the following setup:

-Samson True Dual Fishtails
-SE Air Cleaner
-Power Commander III
-Hydraulic Cam Tensioner and Oil Pump
-SE 204 Cams
-According to the catalog I need a Spacer Kit, Cam Install Kit and a Drive Gear Retention Kit.

Am I forgetting anything that would be crucial to the upgrade or that would be beneficial to include, such as new pushrods, lifters, etc.? If so, what models would you recommend?

Thanks again.... you guys are great!
 
Old Feb 15, 2012 | 09:35 PM
  #15  
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This may sound like sacrilege on this forum but...have you considered just trading in on a newer bike with a stock motor with more cu?

Here's where I am going with this, it's a pure effort vs. cost and what you get out of it. Just say all told, with labor (assuming you do most of your own wrenching) and parts it runs you $5k and a total down time of 2 months (3 -6 hours a day over 8 weekends...maybe an hour or two on week days).

Or you take the same $5k, trade in your ride (say $5-7k for good condition), and come out of the stealer with a new (or newish) 103 engine bike. Then you have something to ride now. On a $16k stock new, jacked up to about $18k even with seasonal "discounts," that's only financing $6-8k over 5 years, so about $210 a month. save some money, if you can, and do the same set of upgrades next year and you will have a true monster.

Anyway, just saying. If you want to do it because you love your ride now or want a decent project over the next few weeks before riding season kicks off, then you have a great plan worked out!
 
Old Feb 16, 2012 | 06:40 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by airdog1023
Thanks for all the great info! I am not educated in all the aspects of a motor so I definitely appreciate all the input y'all are giving me. I think I'm going to wait on the 95" kit, but go ahead and try the following setup:

-Samson True Dual Fishtails
-SE Air Cleaner
-Power Commander III
-Hydraulic Cam Tensioner and Oil Pump
-SE 204 Cams
-According to the catalog I need a Spacer Kit, Cam Install Kit and a Drive Gear Retention Kit.

Am I forgetting anything that would be crucial to the upgrade or that would be beneficial to include, such as new pushrods, lifters, etc.? If so, what models would you recommend?

Thanks again.... you guys are great!
You will need pushrods unless you pull the tank. Most people cut them off to get them out and replace with adjustable. You may need the spacer kit--or may not, mine needed it but my wrench said he ordered it just in case. That makes me think that the run out has to be checked and you go from there, but I am no mech. I would be sure to replace the cam bearings while you are there.
 
Old Feb 16, 2012 | 08:00 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Ockam
This may sound like sacrilege on this forum but...have you considered just trading in on a newer bike with a stock motor with more cu?

Here's where I am going with this, it's a pure effort vs. cost and what you get out of it. Just say all told, with labor (assuming you do most of your own wrenching) and parts it runs you $5k and a total down time of 2 months (3 -6 hours a day over 8 weekends...maybe an hour or two on week days).

Or you take the same $5k, trade in your ride (say $5-7k for good condition), and come out of the stealer with a new (or newish) 103 engine bike. Then you have something to ride now. On a $16k stock new, jacked up to about $18k even with seasonal "discounts," that's only financing $6-8k over 5 years, so about $210 a month. save some money, if you can, and do the same set of upgrades next year and you will have a true monster.

Anyway, just saying. If you want to do it because you love your ride now or want a decent project over the next few weeks before riding season kicks off, then you have a great plan worked out!
A simple, cheap and thought out 95" build will stomp a stock 110' into the dirt.. There is no stock power upgrade anymore thanks to the EPA, therefore trading "up" doesn't make performance sense. There's never anything wrong with a new bike though..
I plan on buying a CVO RG when the 120" engine finally comes out, and the first thing I'll do is heads, cams and a tuner so it can do what it's suppose to do....
 
Old Feb 16, 2012 | 10:13 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by airdog1023
Am I forgetting anything that would be crucial to the upgrade or that would be beneficial to include, such as new pushrods, lifters, etc.?
I'd install new lifters while you're in there as they're only $94. I'd also install a quick disconnect in the cross over fuel line, if you decide to go through the top end. They're rather inexpensive at $44, and well worth the cost if you ever remove the tank again for future work.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 06:17 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by George C
A simple, cheap and thought out 95" build will stomp a stock 110' into the dirt.. There is no stock power upgrade anymore thanks to the EPA, therefore trading "up" doesn't make performance sense. There's never anything wrong with a new bike though..
I plan on buying a CVO RG when the 120" engine finally comes out, and the first thing I'll do is heads, cams and a tuner so it can do what it's suppose to do....
I definitely don't disagree about a customized "95 over a stock big bore in performance. My point was really more along the lines of deferring the investment and eventually customizing the bigger engine for more bang in the long run. basically, you can upgrade an old engine now, or buy a newer bike with an even bigger engine and customize it down the road.
 
Old Feb 16, 2012 | 06:29 PM
  #20  
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Do it......i dont have a big engine by any means but this bike pulls away even at 80 mph i have plenty of roll left. Its awesome.
 



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