How do you extract worn Bolts?
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 5
From: Hickory, NC
If the derby cover is off and the screw is snapped of flush with the primary housing it's a different story. Your only choice at that point may be to use an easy out. However, use extreme caution with the easy out. You're going to be using one that's extremely small and they snap very easily. Snap one off in the screw and you've got a world of trouble.
I've had good success (better than with easy outs) in the past with left-handed drill bits. They're basically cut in the opposite direction from a standard drill bit and you use your drill in the reverse (counter-clockwise) direction. As the bit turns in the counter-clockwise direction and bites into the metal of the screw, it will normall back them out will very little effort (assuming they aren't lock-tited in place which the derby cover screws shouldn't be). The only problem is that left-handed drill bits can be difficult to locate. I think I stumbled across my set (5 bits) at a flea market.
Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: United Kingdom
Before you do any drilling try a few things. Get a flat punch that completely covers the head and give it a few good taps with a hammer. A lot of times that will unseize a bolt. If you have spline drive sockets (or a friend has some), tap one of those in there. They grab pretty good.
When you say "Sheared", did the head already spin off? If so, Take out the other 4 torx bolts so you can get the derby cover out of your way. If you can't grab the end of the broken bolt then grind the broken end flat with a dremel. It's easier to center a punch that way. Using "easy-outs" that are that small usually just break off before you get the bolt to turn. You may end up just drilling a hole slightly smaller than the thread size. Using a tap sometimes you get lucky and the tap unscrews the old remains of the bolt right out the backside without damaging the threads. good luck.
When you say "Sheared", did the head already spin off? If so, Take out the other 4 torx bolts so you can get the derby cover out of your way. If you can't grab the end of the broken bolt then grind the broken end flat with a dremel. It's easier to center a punch that way. Using "easy-outs" that are that small usually just break off before you get the bolt to turn. You may end up just drilling a hole slightly smaller than the thread size. Using a tap sometimes you get lucky and the tap unscrews the old remains of the bolt right out the backside without damaging the threads. good luck.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,913
Likes: 2,542
I've had good success (better than with easy outs) in the past with left-handed drill bits. They're basically cut in the opposite direction from a standard drill bit and you use your drill in the reverse (counter-clockwise) direction. As the bit turns in the counter-clockwise direction and bites into the metal of the screw, it will normall back them out will very little effort (assuming they aren't lock-tited in place which the derby cover screws shouldn't be). The only problem is that left-handed drill bits can be difficult to locate. I think I stumbled across my set (5 bits) at a flea market.
Hope this helps.[/quote]
+1 They can really save your **** at times.
Hope this helps.[/quote]
+1 They can really save your **** at times.
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 800
Likes: 408
From: Middle Tennessee
Try to tap the allen wrench into the spline if needed to seat the tool well.
If as described earlier that this hole isnt a blind hole then the screw should not be bottomed out and should come right out as soon as you can get a grip in the splines.
Either way, toss that screw when it comes out and get another one. If I remember they are 1/4-20 thread.
Club Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,192
Likes: 168
From: Knoxville, Tn
Options
Taking a center punch and giving it a couple of good whacks will maybe loosen it a bit. There is an old trick using a drop of oil and the torx bit and some cleanser like Comet or Bon-Ami. Put a drop, 1 only, on your torx bit and then dip it in the cleanser and try that. If no joy, you can as others have suggested, drill the head off and remove the cover. There will be enough of the fastener shank left to remove with vice grips. Ez outs are great IF you drill the bolt perfectly straight. If you drill it crooked, you will cause more problems for yourself.
I worked for years in an industry where there were always bolts and screws you couldn't get out. There is a creeping/penetrating oil called Kano Aero Kroil. It comes in a spray can and is the best oil I have ever used on stuck fasteners. If that didn't work, I would use an air hammer with an tool called a screw knocker with the correct bit. Sometimes that would reform the head of the fastener while you worked.
http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/de...DUCT_ID=AT540A
BTW....the correct size Torx bit for those fasteners is a No. 27
I worked for years in an industry where there were always bolts and screws you couldn't get out. There is a creeping/penetrating oil called Kano Aero Kroil. It comes in a spray can and is the best oil I have ever used on stuck fasteners. If that didn't work, I would use an air hammer with an tool called a screw knocker with the correct bit. Sometimes that would reform the head of the fastener while you worked.
http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/de...DUCT_ID=AT540A
BTW....the correct size Torx bit for those fasteners is a No. 27
Last edited by dyna rider; Mar 4, 2012 at 03:30 PM.
Club Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,192
Likes: 168
From: Knoxville, Tn
Torch
You think they do that on chrome ?
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 13,389
Likes: 26
From: Windham,Maine
That was an easy fix, now replace all hardware with stainless not chrome and you will never deal with these problems again unless you do not have a feel for torque and overtighten.good Luck and have fun.
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 750
Likes: 3
From: 3rd Rock
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
These are remarkable little things! I use one or two sizes at my work. Mostly for panel screws and such, 10-32 panhead/button head. A wire ga. #10 drill to remove the damaged slot, and a #30 about 1/8th to 3/16th deep into it, place splined end of it into the hole and lightly tap with a hammer to seat it. put a socket on it, and wrench it out. If it starts to slip...drill a little deeper/tap a little harderWorks every time.
The plus on these is; they're not likely to break. And you don't have to buy the whole set. I'm thinkin' Sears carries them too, for much less.
Not much "Right Now" help, but, they're real handy to keep around.
Hope this helps
Best wishes....Tim(HT)
These are remarkable little things! I use one or two sizes at my work. Mostly for panel screws and such, 10-32 panhead/button head. A wire ga. #10 drill to remove the damaged slot, and a #30 about 1/8th to 3/16th deep into it, place splined end of it into the hole and lightly tap with a hammer to seat it. put a socket on it, and wrench it out. If it starts to slip...drill a little deeper/tap a little harderWorks every time.
The plus on these is; they're not likely to break. And you don't have to buy the whole set. I'm thinkin' Sears carries them too, for much less.
Not much "Right Now" help, but, they're real handy to keep around.
Hope this helps
Best wishes....Tim(HT)