how do you know what a fair price is when buying new
Novice
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Palmyra, PA
I'm not sure about this one. I went in about a year ago to purchase a new FXDC. I took a look at a couple dealerships and then went online. I knew exactly the list of add-ons that I wanted, so I started emailing all the local dealers. I am fortunate enough to have about half a dozen dealers all within about 45 minutes. I gave them all the exact same list (I even included the part numbers so that they could see that I was serious and took the time to research) and let them know up front that I was going to be asking them all for the exact same quote. I ended up getting my FXDC with all the accessories for just about the same price as the MSRP. When I finally went back to the dealer (which happened to be the closest one) he threw in the alarm system if I would put money down on the bike that day.
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 255
Likes: 17
From: MN
Not true-- Last summer I purchased a new 2011 Fatboy lo. Sale price was 14,500, which is well below MSRP.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,364
Likes: 33
From: So Cal The Golden State
This makes good sense. It's far too easy to add on things during the deal and make it a "nice neat package" which drive up the cost the new bike well beyond what you wanted or needed. Besides, what looks good in the showroom or catalog isn't necessatily what will work or you will like in the end. Piper59 is right, you end paying for it for the next 5 years.
Here's what worked best for me (after doing it the other way afew times!): Keep it simple! Buy the bike as a stand alone unit. You're better off keeping it stock initially anyways, riding it a while and breaking it in, getting to know it. Taking your time to decide what, if any, upgrades it might need. A lot of the stuff sold at an HD shop is grossly overpriced anyways, and you'll do better researching your upgrades here before pulling the trigger on them.
An uncomplicated deal leaves the dealer less room to f--k with you.-and they will, given half a chance. My position when buying a vehicle is "What is the selling price of the vehicle?" Period. I DO NOT CARE what the monthly payments are. That is my problem/concern. I already know what the available interest rates are, so after we agree on a selling price, I'll "let" you try to beat the interset rate I've already locked in at my bank or credit union. If you want an extended warranty (not always a bad deal, depending on your needs), then negotiate that too, separate from the sales price of the vehicle.
Don't fall for "tires for life" (ALWAYS a hidden catch) or other dealer gimmicks. Don't bother with the "maintenence package" they offer. You'll probably want to swtch over to a quality synthetic like Redline at 5000 miles anyways, so why spend extra $$? A dealer will always try to throw a bunch of stuff at you, do the "razzle dazzle" to get you to sign on the deal. STAY FOCUSED.
Use the KISS principle in your negotiations. Be prepared to walk. Be polite but firm. You're the guy with the $$. They need you, you don't need them, and there are more than one dealer in your region.
Check out mtbottle's post too. Use this forum as you are now. Lots of experience here. Good luck. RIde safe!
Here's what worked best for me (after doing it the other way afew times!): Keep it simple! Buy the bike as a stand alone unit. You're better off keeping it stock initially anyways, riding it a while and breaking it in, getting to know it. Taking your time to decide what, if any, upgrades it might need. A lot of the stuff sold at an HD shop is grossly overpriced anyways, and you'll do better researching your upgrades here before pulling the trigger on them.
An uncomplicated deal leaves the dealer less room to f--k with you.-and they will, given half a chance. My position when buying a vehicle is "What is the selling price of the vehicle?" Period. I DO NOT CARE what the monthly payments are. That is my problem/concern. I already know what the available interest rates are, so after we agree on a selling price, I'll "let" you try to beat the interset rate I've already locked in at my bank or credit union. If you want an extended warranty (not always a bad deal, depending on your needs), then negotiate that too, separate from the sales price of the vehicle.
Don't fall for "tires for life" (ALWAYS a hidden catch) or other dealer gimmicks. Don't bother with the "maintenence package" they offer. You'll probably want to swtch over to a quality synthetic like Redline at 5000 miles anyways, so why spend extra $$? A dealer will always try to throw a bunch of stuff at you, do the "razzle dazzle" to get you to sign on the deal. STAY FOCUSED.
Use the KISS principle in your negotiations. Be prepared to walk. Be polite but firm. You're the guy with the $$. They need you, you don't need them, and there are more than one dealer in your region.
Check out mtbottle's post too. Use this forum as you are now. Lots of experience here. Good luck. RIde safe!
If you want add-on buy on the board here sonner or later what you want will show.
Club Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 145,895
Likes: 821
From: 40 miles Northeast of Indy..
For me its when we've reached a price that I am ready to write the check to pay for it.
the last time was in 07 when I bought the Heritage.
sticker was $18.9, got it for $18. with $500 free parts and lifetime 15 % off all part. Wrote the check, Cash deal. done.
the last time was in 07 when I bought the Heritage.
sticker was $18.9, got it for $18. with $500 free parts and lifetime 15 % off all part. Wrote the check, Cash deal. done.
Last edited by oct1949; Mar 22, 2012 at 04:28 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 4
From: pittsburgh, pa
Not true. I've been to several different HD dealers in the same day, seen the exact same Ultra Classic, same equipment, different dealer "sticker prices". I have an aquiantence through my motor unit, left the dealership where we get our bikes. he confided that there is a markup, same as in cars. HD want the public to think what you posted, helps the dealers keep their numbers high.
Tourer
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 454
Likes: 0
From: Ozark, Al now Sherman, Tx
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 457
Likes: 0
A fair deal is purchasing whatever it is you want at the best price.....on the day you buy it!
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Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 18,575
Likes: 4
From: Norfolk, VA
Walk in with cash in hand ($14K) and avoid the lengthy discussions with various sales types that talk you into financing/extended warranties/bells and whistles...Walk out after 8-minutes if the staff surrounds you.