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I am looking to buy a torque wrench on a budget of under $100.00 and have a couple of questions for you wrenches out there:
-I am looking at a Crafstman 1/2 inch drive/20-250 ft/lb micrometer type. This wrench is on sale for $59.00. Is this junk for that price?
-What is the difference between a clicker type and a micrometer type? I know I don't want a beam type.
- The 20-250 ft/lb range seems o.k. to me according to the chart in the service manual. Does that seem like an o.k. range?
- Am I asking too much to get a decent torque wrench for under a hundred bucks?
Thank you all in advance.
I'm just curious, if there is a real reason for that, or if you are one of the uninformed that believe just because they are inexpensive they are junk??? Cuz I've made it my personal crusade to educate all who ask that the beam type wrenches were the absolute most reliable torque wrenches I ever encountered in the Navy....where my job included calibrating thousands and thousands of torque wrenches....it was basically my specialty in the shop. Dial indicator type gauges were a close second. The snap action wrenches almost always needed adjustment to bring them within tolerance. So if you insist on using snap action wrenches, do as others have suggested already and unload the spring by backing the torque setting all the way down to zero every time you finish using the wrench.
For motorcycle maintenance, all I've ever needed was beem type wrenches. The only 'real' need for a snap acting torque wrench is to give you indication of torque reached when reaching into areas where you cannot easily see the dial/readout of the torque wrench....like I said, not something you will encounter working on motorcycles.
i have to agree. i have the beam type and i never had any problems from using it. i hardly ever use it tho, i only use it on thghting the larger nut and bolts and thats because the torque wrench is longer and you get better leverage. most of the wrenching i do is done by feel.
I use a Craftsman beam type for most of my ft/lbs and the in/lbs version of the wrench you're asking about for the little stuff. I as well prefer the beam. I guess I just like the simplicity and the idea of "me" being the one who decides I've torqued enough, if that makes any sense.[8D]
I am looking to buy a torque wrench on a budget of under $100.00 and have a couple of questions for you wrenches out there:
-I am looking at a Crafstman 1/2 inch drive/20-250 ft/lb micrometer type. This wrench is on sale for $59.00. Is this junk for that price?
-What is the difference between a clicker type and a micrometer type? I know I don't want a beam type.
- The 20-250 ft/lb range seems o.k. to me according to the chart in the service manual. Does that seem like an o.k. range?
- Am I asking too much to get a decent torque wrench for under a hundred bucks?
Thank you all in advance.
I'm just curious, if there is a real reason for that, or if you are one of the uninformed that believe just because they are inexpensive they are junk??? Cuz I've made it my personal crusade to educate all who ask that the beam type wrenches were the absolute most reliable torque wrenches I ever encountered in the Navy....where my job included calibrating thousands and thousands of torque wrenches....it was basically my specialty in the shop. Dial indicator type gauges were a close second. The snap action wrenches almost always needed adjustment to bring them within tolerance. So if you insist on using snap action wrenches, do as others have suggested already and unload the spring by backing the torque setting all the way down to zero every time you finish using the wrench.
For motorcycle maintenance, all I've ever needed was beem type wrenches. The only 'real' need for a snap acting torque wrench is to give you indication of torque reached when reaching into areas where you cannot easily see the dial/readout of the torque wrench....like I said, not something you will encounter working on motorcycles.
Actually, I am not dead set against the beam type. I am just ignorant when it comes to torque wrenches. I work on machinery for a living, but the type of jobs I do don't require the use of a torque wrench. You were correct in saying that I am uninformed in thinking that the beam type is not as good. Thank you for shedding some light on the subject.
Is it necessary to have a torque wrench that goes up to 200 ft-lbs, or would it be better to get a wrench that goes to 100 ft-lbs? It seems that mosttorque requirementson the bikeare less than 100 ft-lbs, so why buy the 200ft-lb wrench?
I was also looking at the Sears wrench and then I came across a SK wrench at tooltopia.com for $74 and it includes a storage case. Speen a total of $75 and shipping is free.
Is it necessary to have a torque wrench that goes up to 200 ft-lbs, or would it be better to get a wrench that goes to 100 ft-lbs? It seems that mosttorque requirementson the bikeare less than 100 ft-lbs, so why buy the 200ft-lb wrench?
I was also looking at the Sears wrench and then I came across a SK wrench at tooltopia.com for $74 and it includes a storage case. Speen a total of $75 and shipping is free.
Comments please.....
You want to find a wrench where your typical operating range will fall within the median 80% of scale. The top and bottom 10% are rarely accurate in the range; so when calibrated, they are only ensured to be accurate in that median range. I believe most torque settings I've used have been in the 10-20 ft/lb range....so a 100 ft/lb wrench is just barely going to be in its reliable operating range at the lower limit settings.
I think my craftsman beam type wrench has about a 70 ft/lb scale....I can't remember what my inch/lb wrench has.
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I have three wrenches,the first is a Craftsman 20-150 ft. lbs.1/2 drive,Proto 10-80 ft. lbs. 3/8 drive,Craftsman 25-250 in. lbs.These cover all my needs.
I know that the axle nut needs 55 ft/lb. The rest for the job (caliper mounting bolts,disk mounting bolts, caliper pins)are about 20-24 ft/lb. I may just buy a 0-75 ft/lb beam type for now (don't want to spend all my Christmas "HD goodie" money on tools), then invest in a couple of other ranges later on.
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