Black Denim Question
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 11,613
Likes: 7,087
From: SoCal / AZ
I was changing the springs in my forks the other day and dropped the bolt onto my front fender. It left a little crescent moon dent and a chip. I'm hoping myself that it's not a bad fix.
I don't think a little difference in color would be near as bad on a front fender. There isnt' anything near enough to it that your eyes would be comparing the color with.
Harley sells the paint, right? Anyone have a part number of what I need? It would be nice to just take it all to the painter and say "here".
I looked on Ebay for a used demin black fender without any luck.
I don't think a little difference in color would be near as bad on a front fender. There isnt' anything near enough to it that your eyes would be comparing the color with.
Harley sells the paint, right? Anyone have a part number of what I need? It would be nice to just take it all to the painter and say "here".
I looked on Ebay for a used demin black fender without any luck.
2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: US West Coast
Black Denim Question
I was fighting this same issue when I tried to match my new unpainted Heartland rear fender.
No local body shop would even touch it since they had bad experiences trying to match in the past.
Finally I sent it to a body shop out of town that claimed they could do it.
They used the denim black and denim clear that it called for in PPG paint.
It didn't match very good and the shop had even tried to mix and blend the base to get it to match.
After I got the fender back I ordered the paint, clear and catalyst from Harley, masked off the flames, shot the base black, waited until the next day and shot the flat clear. Both the base and clear calls for activator in it and to wait between 4-48 hrs before applying the clear to the base.
It now matches the tank and front fender perfectly.
Since you can't sand and buff the flat clear if you have an imperfection, it has to be laid down in a perfectly clean and dust free environment. I had a small spec of dust in the first two coats of clear . So I waited until next day, wet sanded with 2000 grit and sprayed one more coat of clear. I got lucky this time and ended up with perfect finish.
Here's the paint numbers you need:
98628 BYM (Base black)
98628 CLR (Flat clear)
99825-02 (Activator)
You then need to add your own solvent like DT-860, DT-870 etc. depending on the temperature your shooting in. You get the solvent from your local PPG distributor.
The Harley paint can be ordered from any Harley dealer but if you get it from someone like http://www.haleshd.com/, they will give you 20% off retail.
After talking to Harley Davidson tech line they admitted that the paint they sell is made for them by PPG, but if you buy it from a PPG dealer according to year and model of your bike, it will not match the factory paint.
No local body shop would even touch it since they had bad experiences trying to match in the past.
Finally I sent it to a body shop out of town that claimed they could do it.
They used the denim black and denim clear that it called for in PPG paint.
It didn't match very good and the shop had even tried to mix and blend the base to get it to match.
After I got the fender back I ordered the paint, clear and catalyst from Harley, masked off the flames, shot the base black, waited until the next day and shot the flat clear. Both the base and clear calls for activator in it and to wait between 4-48 hrs before applying the clear to the base.
It now matches the tank and front fender perfectly.
Since you can't sand and buff the flat clear if you have an imperfection, it has to be laid down in a perfectly clean and dust free environment. I had a small spec of dust in the first two coats of clear . So I waited until next day, wet sanded with 2000 grit and sprayed one more coat of clear. I got lucky this time and ended up with perfect finish.
Here's the paint numbers you need:
98628 BYM (Base black)
98628 CLR (Flat clear)
99825-02 (Activator)
You then need to add your own solvent like DT-860, DT-870 etc. depending on the temperature your shooting in. You get the solvent from your local PPG distributor.
The Harley paint can be ordered from any Harley dealer but if you get it from someone like http://www.haleshd.com/, they will give you 20% off retail.
After talking to Harley Davidson tech line they admitted that the paint they sell is made for them by PPG, but if you buy it from a PPG dealer according to year and model of your bike, it will not match the factory paint.
Last edited by MasseMan; Nov 18, 2012 at 04:40 PM.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 521
Likes: 3
From: Colorado Springs, Co.
I was fighting this same issue when I tried to match my new unpainted Heartland rear fender.
No local body shop would even touch it since they had bad experiences trying to match in the past.
Finally I sent it to a body shop out of town that claimed they could do it.
They used the denim black and denim clear that it called for in PPG paint.
It didn't match very good and the shop had even tried to mix and blend the base to get it to match.
After I got the fender back I ordered the paint, clear and catalyst from Harley, masked off the flames, shot the base black, waited until the next day and shot the flat clear. Both the base and clear calls for activator in it and to wait between 4-48 hrs before applying the clear to the base.
It now matches the tank and front fender perfectly.
Since you can't sand and buff the flat clear if you have an imperfection, it has to be laid down in a perfectly clean and dust free environment. I had a small spec of dust in the first two coats of clear . So I waited until next day, wet sanded with 2000 grit and sprayed one more coat of clear. I got lucky this time and ended up with perfect finish.
Here's the paint numbers you need:
98628 BYM (Base black)
98628 CLR (Flat clear)
99825-02 (Activator)
You then need to add your own solvent like DT-860, DT-870 etc. depending on the temperature your shooting in. You get the solvent from your local PPG distributor.
The Harley paint can be ordered from any Harley dealer but if you get it from someone like http://www.haleshd.com/, they will give you 20% off retail.
After talking to Harley Davidson tech line they admitted that the paint they sell is made for them by PPG, but if you buy it from a PPG dealer according to year and model of your bike, it will not match the factory paint.
No local body shop would even touch it since they had bad experiences trying to match in the past.
Finally I sent it to a body shop out of town that claimed they could do it.
They used the denim black and denim clear that it called for in PPG paint.
It didn't match very good and the shop had even tried to mix and blend the base to get it to match.
After I got the fender back I ordered the paint, clear and catalyst from Harley, masked off the flames, shot the base black, waited until the next day and shot the flat clear. Both the base and clear calls for activator in it and to wait between 4-48 hrs before applying the clear to the base.
It now matches the tank and front fender perfectly.
Since you can't sand and buff the flat clear if you have an imperfection, it has to be laid down in a perfectly clean and dust free environment. I had a small spec of dust in the first two coats of clear . So I waited until next day, wet sanded with 2000 grit and sprayed one more coat of clear. I got lucky this time and ended up with perfect finish.
Here's the paint numbers you need:
98628 BYM (Base black)
98628 CLR (Flat clear)
99825-02 (Activator)
You then need to add your own solvent like DT-860, DT-870 etc. depending on the temperature your shooting in. You get the solvent from your local PPG distributor.
The Harley paint can be ordered from any Harley dealer but if you get it from someone like http://www.haleshd.com/, they will give you 20% off retail.
After talking to Harley Davidson tech line they admitted that the paint they sell is made for them by PPG, but if you buy it from a PPG dealer according to year and model of your bike, it will not match the factory paint.
Road Master
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 935
Likes: 2
From: Upstate NY
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: Alaska
I like the denim black, a lot! but I kinda thought the point was to not have to worry about it. Wash it and ****, but just kind of let it go and "age naturally" after that. Touch up paint yeah, but otherwise...
Eh, but what do I know? I roll with Midnight Pearl.
Eh, but what do I know? I roll with Midnight Pearl.
Here is a link using John Deere Blitz Black. It is suppose to be a "dead on" match. I wouldn't trust it to do a fender or tank but it might be a good way to go for small parts. I am planning to use it on a headlight shell. Might be able to use it for touch ups.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 6,470
Likes: 4
From: on the road
I like JD blitz black it doesnt show gray in time like all the other flat blacks do
ought to add------------cover every thing in the neighbor hood.It is a high carbon paint and really goes where it shouldn't .I sprayed a waste oil tank with it and it even dusted stuff outside
ought to add------------cover every thing in the neighbor hood.It is a high carbon paint and really goes where it shouldn't .I sprayed a waste oil tank with it and it even dusted stuff outside
Last edited by 3408pete; Jan 8, 2013 at 11:25 PM.
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 950
Likes: 19
From: Southcentral, OK
I used a Mr Clean Magic Eraser to take a light scratch out of my rear fender... seriously.
The local dealership won't even try to touch up scratches... They scratched my front fender when I had it in for warranty work, and they called me to tell me that "we had a little accident, and we have already ordered you a new fender".
M
The local dealership won't even try to touch up scratches... They scratched my front fender when I had it in for warranty work, and they called me to tell me that "we had a little accident, and we have already ordered you a new fender".
M
Big Kahuna HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 322,622
Likes: 3,077
From: .....
I love the Black Denim and I was wondering what to clean it with and not mess it up. I read here that someone used Windex, someone used water and they have the HD cleaner...wonder what that costs...but I want to find something soon.