Best Drive Belt to use.. keep breaking belts..
There are a number of different lubes on the market which don't attract much dirt.

Many of our riding buddies running belts on hot rodded machines never hear of any problems.
Without being able to inspect your machine it's impossible to know what the problem might be.
And virtually all modern o-ring chains are coated or plated and don't rust...lube on the outside of a chain does nothing...the only place lube does any good is between the pin and bushing...which you cannot lube on a sealed chain...but the chain manufacturers will be glad to sell you a can of lube.
cheers
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders

people can tell you till they're blue in the face how clean, quiet, reliable, strong, and amazing belts are and how yours MUST be misaligned if it breaks... Until they start paying to tow your bike home, pull the primary and swingarm, and replace a $200+ dollar belt each time you snap it... stick with a chain. At 150hp, unless you baby it (what a damn waste that would be) you WILL break belts. Nothing compares to that sense of security you have when you dump the clutch at 4000rpm to lay a nice rev limiter smacking burnout through 1st powershifting into 2nd to keep it going, all the while knowing that chain isnt going anywhere
Other chain advantages:
Cost - I converted for $275 (little more than just a replacement belt)
Installation - You dont have to remove the swingarm to install it
Replacement - You dont have to remove anything to replace a chain
Emergency repair - If you do manage to break one, a couple links in the toolbag gets you back on the road
Gearing Adjustment - Chain sprockets are so much cheaper than belt sprockets (some are <$50), its much more practical to pick up another sprocket if you want to change the final drive ratio
people can tell you till they're blue in the face how clean, quiet, reliable, strong, and amazing belts are and how yours MUST be misaligned if it breaks... Until they start paying to tow your bike home, pull the primary and swingarm, and replace a $200+ dollar belt each time you snap it... stick with a chain. At 150hp, unless you baby it (what a damn waste that would be) you WILL break belts. Nothing compares to that sense of security you have when you dump the clutch at 4000rpm to lay a nice rev limiter smacking burnout through 1st powershifting into 2nd to keep it going, all the while knowing that chain isnt going anywhere
Other chain advantages:
Cost - I converted for $275 (little more than just a replacement belt)
Installation - You dont have to remove the swingarm to install it
Replacement - You dont have to remove anything to replace a chain
Emergency repair - If you do manage to break one, a couple links in the toolbag gets you back on the road
Gearing Adjustment - Chain sprockets are so much cheaper than belt sprockets (some are <$50), its much more practical to pick up another sprocket if you want to change the final drive ratio







