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Best Drive Belt to use.. keep breaking belts..

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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 01:35 PM
  #31  
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Chain lube acts as a rust inhibitor, and a rusty chain will have a much short life span.

There are a number of different lubes on the market which don't attract much dirt.


Originally Posted by Tom84FXST
I never lube an o-ring chain. Lube on the outside causes dirt to stick, and makes the chain wear faster. O-ring chains have all the lube they need inside the rollers. I clean it a few times a year when I enter bike shows. I check the rollers once a year, and if even one roller feels rough, I replace the chain...which takes 10 minutes.


 
Old Feb 4, 2013 | 09:06 PM
  #32  
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i bought the motor from the 1st owner brand new in the crate still.. i didnt buy it from the manufacturer.. was a jims 131 crate engine .. i ran it on the stock belt for 5000 miles.. then went from a 54mm throttle body to a 62mm and the engine came alive and snapped a belt first ride.. but i also added a baker 7speed and that is 250rpm closer gear ratio in each gear.. meaning they say it ads like 20hp to the bike cause the gear ratio.. and Yes its very torquie now.. i dont think a belt will handle it any more no matter who makes it.. thanks for the input.. Chain Drive conversion in progress.. just have toi figure out the offset sprockets to use right now.. trial and error since i cant find any info on an 07 conversion...
 
Old Feb 5, 2013 | 05:27 AM
  #33  
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Been running the 1 1/2" Kevlar belts on both our 124" and 155" bikes never think about belt problems.Always spend the time making sure they track correctly,that all pivot points are in top shape, check belt tension finally, inspect belt and pulleys for foriegn matter.
Many of our riding buddies running belts on hot rodded machines never hear of any problems.
Without being able to inspect your machine it's impossible to know what the problem might be.
 
Old Feb 5, 2013 | 05:28 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by bigdaddy33
Chain lube acts as a rust inhibitor, and a rusty chain will have a much short life span.

There are a number of different lubes on the market which don't attract much dirt.

And virtually all modern o-ring chains are coated or plated and don't rust...lube on the outside of a chain does nothing...the only place lube does any good is between the pin and bushing...which you cannot lube on a sealed chain...but the chain manufacturers will be glad to sell you a can of lube.
 
Old Feb 5, 2013 | 05:36 PM
  #35  
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Cant agree with that.....a dry sproket with a dry chain (no lube) will run hotter and wear faster....sprockets last longer with a lubed chain
 
Old Feb 5, 2013 | 06:12 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Harleybass
If you weren't doggin it, and it broke within 70 miles, that makes me think alignment might be your problem. Todays belts can handle lots o horsepower and abuse, and keep on tickin, but have it out of alignment 1 Red Headed C*nt hair and they will self destruct rather quickly!
I'm in agreement with the alignment issue.

Originally Posted by Tom84FXST
And virtually all modern o-ring chains are coated or plated and don't rust...lube on the outside of a chain does nothing...the only place lube does any good is between the pin and bushing...which you cannot lube on a sealed chain...but the chain manufacturers will be glad to sell you a can of lube.
New O ring chains are covered in a preservative grease and need lubrication. After a quick ride in the rain you'll see how quickly it will rust. I have run chains for over 25 years. When the rollers start to shine is when you should spray some lube on. Mind you this is on high performance sport bikes and not Harleys so your mileage may vary.



cheers
 
Old Feb 6, 2013 | 06:43 AM
  #37  
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I have not run a chain since the early 90's and will never go back. Worn teeth, chain adjusting, oily mess, and frequent chain replacements, sometimes with new sprockets, just doesn't make sense to me anymore. Good belts will take the torque and horsepower made by most bikes. I have broke 2 belts in 20 years, both were on High Torque and Horsepower motors and both were in the 45k mile range attempting 2nd gear wheel stands.
 
Old Feb 6, 2013 | 11:56 AM
  #38  
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there was no alighnment issue.. was stock pulley's on the bike.. the belt just couldnt handle the power.. thing what you want but try hot rodding a bike withj close to 150hp and tq.. i have a Baker 7 speed so my 1st gear is even lower then stock by 250 rpm.. so baker claims the transmission ratio ads like 20 hp to an already moster engine = belts breaking.. the process of swapping to a chain drive is almost done.. just getting the right offset sprocket set up on it.. ever since i put this engine in the bike i dont care how tight the belt is i have felt it jump teeth on the pulley.. a belt just cant handle hot roding .. yeah i can ride mine mellow and make a belt last.. BUT i didnt build the bike to be Slow and rode easy...anyway thanks for the input .. on stock to mild built engine a belt is great dont get me wrong.. but throw over 150hp at it and ride it hard your gonna snap a belt quick
 
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 12:47 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Billdoe
yeah i can ride mine mellow and make a belt last.. BUT i didnt build the bike to be Slow and rode easy...anyway thanks for the input .. on stock to mild built engine a belt is great dont get me wrong.. but throw over 150hp at it and ride it hard your gonna snap a belt quick


people can tell you till they're blue in the face how clean, quiet, reliable, strong, and amazing belts are and how yours MUST be misaligned if it breaks... Until they start paying to tow your bike home, pull the primary and swingarm, and replace a $200+ dollar belt each time you snap it... stick with a chain. At 150hp, unless you baby it (what a damn waste that would be) you WILL break belts. Nothing compares to that sense of security you have when you dump the clutch at 4000rpm to lay a nice rev limiter smacking burnout through 1st powershifting into 2nd to keep it going, all the while knowing that chain isnt going anywhere

Other chain advantages:
Cost - I converted for $275 (little more than just a replacement belt)
Installation - You dont have to remove the swingarm to install it
Replacement - You dont have to remove anything to replace a chain
Emergency repair - If you do manage to break one, a couple links in the toolbag gets you back on the road
Gearing Adjustment - Chain sprockets are so much cheaper than belt sprockets (some are <$50), its much more practical to pick up another sprocket if you want to change the final drive ratio
 
Old Feb 6, 2013 | 09:55 PM
  #40  
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+1 Excellent post. All true.


Originally Posted by Frankenbagger


people can tell you till they're blue in the face how clean, quiet, reliable, strong, and amazing belts are and how yours MUST be misaligned if it breaks... Until they start paying to tow your bike home, pull the primary and swingarm, and replace a $200+ dollar belt each time you snap it... stick with a chain. At 150hp, unless you baby it (what a damn waste that would be) you WILL break belts. Nothing compares to that sense of security you have when you dump the clutch at 4000rpm to lay a nice rev limiter smacking burnout through 1st powershifting into 2nd to keep it going, all the while knowing that chain isnt going anywhere

Other chain advantages:
Cost - I converted for $275 (little more than just a replacement belt)
Installation - You dont have to remove the swingarm to install it
Replacement - You dont have to remove anything to replace a chain
Emergency repair - If you do manage to break one, a couple links in the toolbag gets you back on the road
Gearing Adjustment - Chain sprockets are so much cheaper than belt sprockets (some are <$50), its much more practical to pick up another sprocket if you want to change the final drive ratio
 



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