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Help with Ironhead Wiring

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Old Feb 8, 2015 | 06:08 PM
  #1  
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superjesse
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Default Help with Ironhead Wiring

Can someone please have a look at my diagram of the way my bike is wired. I am having problems with charging, and keeping my batteries from going bad and burning up a cell. It starts first few times, then just click click. Im not too sure about the wire gauges, but mostly interested in finding out if I even have it close. superjesse13132000@yahoo.com

 
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Old Feb 8, 2015 | 06:28 PM
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superjesse
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Default Miss-labeled some stuff

I also realize I miss-labeled some parts, like the starter solenoid, but I am sure someone much smarter than I will know what they are looking at.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2015 | 03:25 PM
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From what I can tell, the coil should be wired to IGN terminal (S) on key switch rather than ACC (A). You should also run a wire from your break light switch back to the IGN terminal (S) as well.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2015 | 06:21 PM
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Do you have a voltmeter to use? Do you know how to use?
 
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 01:44 PM
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Default Thanks you so much for the help

Originally Posted by Ratbike_Mike
From what I can tell, the coil should be wired to IGN terminal (S) on key switch rather than ACC (A). You should also run a wire from your break light switch back to the IGN terminal (S) as well.
For some reason I had it in my head that the coil went to the acc, but I can see how it would probably be better on the s terminal. would this account for the loss of 3 batteries from dead cells?, it would start once or twice right up with a new battery and then it would just click after that, check the battery and dead cell.

And would it also cause the bike to sputter here and there when riding it? I imagine this to be in the carb and adjustment, but who am I to be sure.

The tail light is grounded at the ground location, it works fine, I turn on the key and the tail light goes on and is separate from the front light (I just have a headlight and tail light nothing else, AZ), why do you think it would be better at the IGN? I dont know.

its in the shop right now, tax time made that possible, hopefully it doesn't end up costing me too much for them to get her up and running right.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 01:29 AM
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I don't know what kind of 3-way key-switch you're using, if there's a jumper wire or if it's a bad switch or what... but the ACC (A) terminal normally isn't powered when the key is turned to the IGN (S) position, so I don't know how your coil or lights (without a wire to the IGN term) are actually getting power, but it could explain the drain on the battery.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 02:32 PM
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Default This is the Ignition switch

So this is the type of ignition switch I have. The more I think about it, the more I think that it might be the lights and how they are wired, as I have them wired like you would think a typical positive negative plan. I have what I figured where the negative wires from the lights going to the same spot I have the battery grounded all on the same nut. But after looking at most wiring diagrams and what you said, I think this is causing a lot of power going back to the battery, or shorting it out. so I am going run them, from igg back to acc (is what it looks like in most diagrams).

and then, run the coil to the igg as well, and hopefully this fixes the feed backs, and shorts.

Its back from the shop timed and tuned, he told me something in my regulator was fused, I atribute it to the bad wiring( I hope). thanks for all your help, and Ill keep checking back to see if I have it right.

heres my ignition switch and a picture of my bike:




 
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