Bars
Bars
HELP!
I have an '04 FLHTC and need to change bars to a more spread out or 'flat' grip position. BUT I do not want to have to change cables and wires.
Due to a wrist injury after riding for awhile with the stock bars my right wrist causes a lot of pain. Been putting up with it but I am wanting to see if there is a change I can make for this year.
Thanks!!
I have an '04 FLHTC and need to change bars to a more spread out or 'flat' grip position. BUT I do not want to have to change cables and wires.
Due to a wrist injury after riding for awhile with the stock bars my right wrist causes a lot of pain. Been putting up with it but I am wanting to see if there is a change I can make for this year.
Thanks!!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 9,561
Likes: 7,912
From: Long Island, New York
Try these:
http://www.wild1inc.com/
Outlaw bars have good width and minimal angle from the bar, so your wrist can stay straight.
http://www.wild1inc.com/
Outlaw bars have good width and minimal angle from the bar, so your wrist can stay straight.
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 998
Likes: 108
From: Kansas
I have the 10" Khrome Werks bagger bobber apes. My wrist are straighter that stock...it's much more comfortable. On my 2012, I did not have to change any cables or lengthen any wires at all. My hands are right at the top of the fairing.
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 998
Likes: 108
From: Kansas
On other thing...I did not run my wires internally. I bought the 1" bar instead of the 1 1/4" and ran the wires external. Doesn't matter to me as it does to others. I'm not sure how much more wire you will need to run internal wiring. FYI. Good luck.
Here's another question that I am having a hard time getting an answer for:
I like the Khrome Werks 10" Bobber Apes because of KW's rep and the price - and most importantly because of the straighter position it will allow for my wrists. My question is - "Will I have to go to longer cables and wires"? I want to use the existing ones I have (non ETC) but need to make sure they will be long enough.
Anybody solved this problem? I am open to other alternatives also. I just need to get away from the 'ergonomic' HD bars, and it sounds like a lot of people are trying to do the same.
Thanks!!
I like the Khrome Werks 10" Bobber Apes because of KW's rep and the price - and most importantly because of the straighter position it will allow for my wrists. My question is - "Will I have to go to longer cables and wires"? I want to use the existing ones I have (non ETC) but need to make sure they will be long enough.
Anybody solved this problem? I am open to other alternatives also. I just need to get away from the 'ergonomic' HD bars, and it sounds like a lot of people are trying to do the same.
Thanks!!
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,612
Likes: 32
From: usa
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AMKAOS - I was told that a LOT of people are not comfortable with the stock bars. I am hoping to find a somewhat inexpensive solution. There were times I didn't ride last year because of the pending pain it would cause.
I am trying to get hold of Khrome Werks tech support to see if they can assist. If you find anything out on your own please let me know.
I am trying to get hold of Khrome Werks tech support to see if they can assist. If you find anything out on your own please let me know.
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SWEET!!
Just ordered Khrome Werks 300077 1" 2+2 Chrome Stretch Bagger Bars from my local HD dealer. The tech a KW said that the 10" Bagger Apes would probably work but he has a friend who used these and it worked out great. No need to buy longer cables, etc.
It is also recommended that I go to a 1 piece riser top clamp.
Both are costing under $120.
Hope this helps!!
Just ordered Khrome Werks 300077 1" 2+2 Chrome Stretch Bagger Bars from my local HD dealer. The tech a KW said that the 10" Bagger Apes would probably work but he has a friend who used these and it worked out great. No need to buy longer cables, etc.
It is also recommended that I go to a 1 piece riser top clamp.
Both are costing under $120.
Hope this helps!!
Well the bars are on but not until I had to buy a longer clutch cable and front brake lines. I needed them to be at least 4" - 6" longer. I first ordered these from J&P (please don't beat me up for this - was trying to save some $$) and when I realized the brake line was the wrong one, I went to HD and got the correct parts. J&P told me I only had to get the upper line from the MC to the manifold and I wasn't by my bike so I couldn't confirm this was correct. They were wrong...
I could have gone with 4" over brake lines but I can hide the extra behind the fairing.
So I now have stainless steel braided lines and cable that look great.
Be ready though for a project. The exhaust system has to be removed to get to the transmission side cover, etc.
Let me know if you have any questions. Just a garage monkey but I might have a hint or two.
I could have gone with 4" over brake lines but I can hide the extra behind the fairing.
So I now have stainless steel braided lines and cable that look great.
Be ready though for a project. The exhaust system has to be removed to get to the transmission side cover, etc.
Let me know if you have any questions. Just a garage monkey but I might have a hint or two.